Blown Head gasket rebuild....@297k

Try working a wire through the passageways?

 

Will check in the morning if still clogged then definitely use a wire to clear blockage.

Fuel injectors r full of carbon, what can i do about them? They may be clogged inside, how can i check/clean?



engine doesnt look so bad if i compare to what ive seen jn videos of other people who had blown head gaskets, one video engine was full of creamy latte so mine doesnt look bad, oil was not too much contaminated as well when i drained engine.



i also opened the plate where PCV valve goes and it had significant carbon gunk in it and some oil as well, should i clean it with brake parts cleaner? Is it safe to spray straight on it? Also it was sealed with some liquid seal i guess there was no gasket, what does factory manual suggest to use to seal it back up?

 

OK let me get this clear, because this could be a game changer in terms of planning ...

no scrubbing, solvents, waiting, or any of that ... Pressure washer got it all completely clean?

Not having to wait for the chemicals to do their job would really help in the planning of this job. And I'll take power tools over patience any day I can.

 

I can use pressure washer tomorrow and report back how effective this is.

 

Doing an egr circuit cleanse at the Bay Area meet ups necessitates a fast cleaning solution .

There is no need for anything other than the pressure washer.

We also have a pancake compressor there to dry the cooler out, but that's not necessary as by the time you are ready to reassemble, the intake manifold needs to be cleaned.

Once you give the pressure washer a try for this job, you'll never use something else.

 

Super Clean works forking great on all that stuff.

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For sealant, check the latest gasket masters video I linked, they make an aftermarket recommendation. Permatex ultra black IIRC, but verify. It has a longer cure time than what's recommended in the attachments, say for timing chain cover.

Check the attachments for where to apply.

I have a doc for that PCV cover, can attach later.

I would just clean exterior of fuel injectors. Be very careful of their o rings, or buy replacements. Gasoline is recommended as lube. Or silicone? You don't want them twisting/pinching.

 

Yup. I did do a few overnight soaks in oxyclean and gunk definitely bubbled out, but at the rate it was going it would have taken a month. It may have soaked in and made it easier to blast out w/ the pressure washer though so I don't think an overnight soak would hurt beforehand.

I also recommend using a gallon zip lock bag w/ a hole cut in the bottom for the pressure washer nozzle. Carbon and water are going to blast back at you, so if you place half the cooler into the bag then put the pressure washer nozzle into the hole and into the cooler then all the back splash goes into the bag and out.

 

Info:

 

Uploaded wrong file earlier, for valve cover install. Attached is better. Note, contrary to Gasket Master videos, Toyota recommends to rely mostly on the rubber gasket that runs around the cover. They do recommend two small zones to use a bit of form-in-place gasket. Again, I think GM's pick: Permatex Ultra Black, would work.

 

So i got toyota head gasket which was around $84, and asked what tube seal to use where theres no gasket they sold me toyota seal packing (FIPG) to use on PCV valve cover plate. They guy tried to sell me on valve cover gasket i initially resisted he said toyota recommends i said toyota recommends to replace ever single gasket to be replaced then later he said it will run only $25 finally i said ok gimme that as well i dnt wanna open engine again. The oxi solution looked completely disgusting in the morning.

 

Valve cover gasket was probably fine. Not the end of the world if it leaks. There are a couple of spots they recommend a dab of the form-in-place, shown in the last attachment.

The biggie is the cylinder head bolt torque. You're squared away on that As of know you intend to reuse the head bolts? I believe in one of the attachments is a check of existing head bolts, making sure they're still within specs. FWIW, gasket masters invariably reuses them.

See if you can a machinist's straight edge, and with feeler gauges, check the head, block intake and exhaust faces against spec. Again, should be in the attachments. If not lemmee know.

A quick check of valve sealing is to spray carb/brake cleaner, see if they hold it or it leaks through.

Full disclosure: I've never done any of this, lol. Well apart from valve cover removal on a slew of hondas, to check valve to rocker arm clearance.

 

If you now switch from oxi bath to pouring the oxi straight in with bottom plugged, and work it with a wire, it might get the ball rolling. As hot and concentrated as possible.

Or pressure washer.

 

Anybody know when you need to use stuff marked safe for oxygen sensors? I would think this would be one of those applications, although it's not likely you'll end up with much of it ending up in the combustion path anyway.

 

I THINK I FUC*%#ED UP. Well, i missed few steps and removed timing chain tensioner then whole chain cover, then i started rotating engine to align chain links but realised it was slipping. The i went back and checked video and sure enough u need to align chain links first before taking any of that off, how bad it is to align the all three to spec. Upper 2 pulleys should be in line since i put everything back together and then aligned upper chain links. But im not sure wher else should i check. Also my pulleys dnt have the paint how they show in video, i cant find paint anywhere to which u shud align.

 

Only chain has paint IIRC. Intake cam sprocket has two long grooves, one longer, and that's the one a painted chain link aligns with. Sprocket on drive shaft has a dimple IIRC.

It's got to be doable. Watch the videos again.

Older video, starting right here I think:

Ok, I lie: there's a blue dot (and a dimple) on the exhaust cam and crankshaft sprockets.

 

I dnt have any dots anywhere
If i have messed up timing, what r consequences? Will engine start? Will it blow ? Is there a way to check if everything is aligned before i close everything up?

 

Don't close it up until you get an answer -- it definitely won't run right.

 

On the loss of proper timing, you will destroy the engine if you crank it with messed up timing. I do not recommend trying it and hoping you get lucky.

Much lesser concern at this point, but still important for others ... The FIPG you got is the wrong stuff. All references in the service manual for the HG and the VCG are for the Black FIPG or ThreeBond 1207B. I would consider Permatex Ultra Black to be equivalent to those. But what you got in the photo there is the Orange FIPG for transmission / transaxle.

Here is some Toyota info on compatibility between Toyota and ThreeBond products. BTW, DreiBond is the German name for ThreeBond, so that would be the same thing too.

 

Judging from the GM video, there's a groove on the sprocket barrel of the intake cam (two actually, one you use), a dimple with a daub of blue paint on the exhaust cam sprocket, and similar on the driveshaft sprocket. The chain has a couple of painted links for the intake cam sprocket match up, and two more painted links for the exhaust cam and crank sprockets.

Could the chain be flipped? The paint's only on one side.

One diff with Permatex Ultra Black IIRC, you should let it cure for at least 24 hours. It's a lot slower than the Toyota FIP gasket maker. Which is probably good, especially for things like the timing chain cover, with myriad bolts. Remember to put extra bead at the horizontal seams (split lines) on the engine. Gasket Masters mention one, but it's more like three IIRC.

I'd second @wheezyglider , definitely ensure it's right before closing it up.