Something crapped out. First battery failure?

Could simply be a loose connector, wiring issue, or electronic component failure that is responsible. The LA Toyota shop techs should be able to quickly sort it out.

 

low 12v?

 

At 129K miles, the traction battery should be still under warranty in CA. I hope the dealer can fix it free for you. Let us know how it goes.

 

When my 12V battery on my 2010 went and stayed below a certain voltage, I got all kinds of strange errors like you are seeing over several days. Yes, it would start but that didn't last very long before it finally crapped out. It took me a while to figure out it was the 12V battery after dumping and reading codes. A new 12V battery fixed it.

Depending on how often and how far you drive or don't drive can still draw the battery down over time. If your daily drives are not far enough to recharge what's used, the 12V battery can draw down over time even if you drive it every day. This can be quickened if you have a lot of stuff pulling off the 12V battery inside the vehicle. The 12V battery mostly gets a trickle charge while driving so length of time per trip is a big factor. Lots of short trips can draw it down over time unless you have longer trips sprinkled in to build it back up.

I put my Schumacher SC-10030A on all three of our Toyotas every 6-7 weeks just to check the battery condition. Results can be surprising.

I hope it's as simple as the battery. Good luck.

 

Rats

 

Hmm, I wonder if the complete system reset amounts to disconnecting and reconnecting the negative terminal of the 12 V battery. This is what I would have done before I took the car to the dealer and paid $$$.

 

wow, that is really unusual

 

Yeah, I bet disconnecting and reconnecting the negative terminal of the 12 V battery would have solved the problem. I need to keep a socket set handy in my car myself.

 

That produces a constant but large magnetic field for sure, albeit short range.

I wonder what it interfered with. Normally it shouldn't be a problem, but perhaps it interfered with a sensor somehow.

 

That makes sense. The current sensor is probably a Hall effect sensor, which measures the magnetic field produced by the current. An external magnetic field would certainly alter the reading, such as giving nonzero results when there is no current.

 

Possibly, but you could also muck things up, necessitating reprogramming or, minimally, re-flashing.

WARNING: Below blurb is included ONLY for fellow pedants!

I went nuts troubleshooting what should have been simple fix on our summer car (used very little during the off-season) which uses a communication network (CAN, Controller Area Network) and satellite modules (SAM, System Acquisition Module) to interface everything. IE: if a tail light fails, the system senses and reports it, informs you of the malfunction, and re-allocates another lamp in the cluster to serve the purpose until repairs are made... and many far more complex algorithms. While the modules should remain stable, power fluctuations or re-initialization may create the need to be flashed or reprogrammed. After many wasted hours, it was found that a power anomaly scrambled a SAM which needed to be re-programmed....Aaaargh!

 

Where in the trunk/cargo area was your subwoofer located, please reference this picture and give us a number.


Rob43