I am well aware it may seem simple it's only two bolts after all but its the position that the second bolt on top is what's giving me issues no matter what Extention I use I just can't seem to get enough clearance for my ratchet and there is virtually zero information about this anywhere on the internet as from what I've been researching for the past 3 days and I can't find not one useful video on this topic and nor information booklet/pdf anywhere I just need help this has been bothering me please anyone with useful information please post a comment about this would be useful for me and others that may be looking for this information.
The Repair Manual (more info) has a procedure (they call it the “accelerator pedal rod,” by the way), but it doesn’t mention any special technique or the need to remove other parts first. They do have you disconnect the negative (–) terminal of the auxiliary (12 volt) battery, to deactivate the SRS, but that’s all. Have you tried using a universal joint together with the extension?
I have a pretty important question before you go any further. What leads you to believe the gas pedal is faulty? If it's because you got a reading on a code reader, I would stop and first be certain the code reader you're using is actually Prius friendly. That is a VERY low failure rate item....which explains why no videos, lol. We run into this quite often, where code readers show weird stuff that leads owners on a wild goose chase.
To remove that top bolt you need a combination of extensions and jointed and wobble accessories for your socket set. You'll eventually figure out a combination of pieces that will work. It's fussy and maddening at times but you'll figure it out. Good luck. And post a picture of what finally worked for you.
You mean like: (Zeppo Shanski first posted that meme over in another thread; it comes from the Facebook account gearheaddiva which a person could be tempted to follow.)
This is an excellent point. Even if the scan tool correctly reads and displays a diagnostic trouble code, the description may not be correct, especially if it’s a manufacturer-controlled code, for which the meaning may differ from one model to another. In a thread last month, for example, it turned out that the “accelerator” codes actually indicated a problem with the cooling system.