valve stem seal DIY

I'm reading & listening! .....are we zeroing/in with evidence that the VSS are a suspicious part of the oil burning mystery??

 

You might be able to do it that way (I've never tried), without removing the camshaft housing (because that I don't think you can do without removing the timing cover, and then you're in hip deep). If you spin things around until you get the two colored links at their proper places next to the sprocket marks, that will save you having to make marks of your own. But,

• You'll need some way of keeping the chain secure against the crank sprocket while you are moving the crankshaft around, and
• The colored links won't be back at their proper places every two crank revolutions. They'll show back up there every n crank revolutions, where n is an even number you can figure out from the number of chain links and sprocket teeth (which are numbers I don't know offhand), or you can just keep cranking around until they do. (It could be several dozen revs.) Or you could just turn the crank backwards when you're done, and line the marked links right back up. Either way, your method of keeping the chain mated to the crank sprocket has to be up to the job.

Some of the cam bearing cap bolts just hold the bearing caps to the camshaft housing, while others hold the caps and housing together down to the cylinder head. You'll be modifying the torque sequence a bit when you reassemble (because the factory sequence assembles the cams and caps to the housing first, then sets the whole schmear onto the head, which won't be the way you do it). You'll want to be careful not to stress the form-in-place-gasket holding the housing to the head.

Finally, yes, you really do want the repair manual. $15 over at techinfo.toyota.com gets you in. Be sure you study how the "sprocket" on one of the two camshafts is actually the valve timing adjuster, and the specific moves (and compressed-air trick) for getting it off and back on.

-Chap

 

Have you considered pumping up the cylinders one at a time with air to hold the valves closed and skip the rope, pun intended. I have done this on cam in block engines but not overhead cam designs.
All you need is a cheap adapter to screw into the spark plug hole and an air compressor.

 

Indeed, the camshafts will be back to their index positions every 2 crank revolutions. You just can't expect to visually confirm it every 2 crank revolutions, with the colored chain links next to the proper marks on the cam sprockets, because those links won't be there every time. That will only happen every 2Q crank revolutions, where you can determine Q if you know the number of cam sprocket teeth and the number of links in the chain, following this post. (If you're happy winging it without the visual confirmation, it doesn't matter.)

-Chap

 

You will need Toyota manual 2-3. I just looked at it and its alot of work and requires SST 09023-38400 to get the cam out and then the chain is tied off to keep tension on it from popping off the crank. But first you have to stake the chain tension with a screwdriver going through the service hole. Its a 8 mm hex key bolt to access that hole. Then it requires a 3 mm rod to lock down the tensioner and on and on.

On your way in to the valves it pays to measure valve lifter clearance because if you after seals the lifters are probably worn out too.
And maybe the cams. Never heard of anyone replacing valve seals on a 1NZ-FXE motor on this site. If anything that worn out on the top end the bottom is worn too. Lifetime of crappy dino oil.

Easier and faster and maybe cheaper in the long run to get a new motor.

 

This is killin' me............

 

OP has a 2ZR. Where the lifters are self adjusting, and the skies are not cloudy all day.

-Chap

 

oops

 

I was going to post about the 2 crank revs. per one camshaft rev. but was beaten to it. To tell which rev. is which, watch the cylinder "opposite" of the #1, that is, skip the next cylinder in the firing order, and the one after that (on a four cylinder). The valves will "cross" on it at TDC, for cylinder #1, that is, the exhaust will be opening while the intake will be closing (or the other way round, can't remember, but it doesn't matter, they "cross" when #1 is at TDC. THEN watch the timing marks to get it exact.

 

If you're willing to go a few more revs around, you can actually use some nice brightly-colored links that Toyota built into the chain for you, to completely confirm that everything is right where it should be.

 

Dumb question: do you have to remove the timing chain cover to access the timing chain tensioner? I need to change out cam and crankshaft

 

Yes.

Sounds like a lot of work. Maybe easier to replace with used engine lots out there.

 

"Timing chain will be undisturbed..." ????

You had to at some point remove the timing chain cover, right? I'm going to take on the repair tonight and take my time but any advice would be greatly appreciated. I know how to get to the valve cover and stuff but the hard part for me is not being familiar with the timing chain situation, yet. I'm pretty car savy so it's not like I'm just throwing darts here

 

I'd watch the videos linked here:

New head gasket replacement video from Gasket Masters | PriusChat

They have some good tips for removal/install of cam shafts, locking them in position, timing chain marks. It's third gen, but similar.

Does the timing chain cover have to come off???

 

Looks like no. This may get you started:

 

Awesome video!!! I was looking all over for a tutorial on this exact same thing here.

One more question...
Has anyone ever seen these heads get warped? I keep hearing usually they never get warped at least for the gen 2 they don't

 

Duuuuuuuuude lo . This is exactly what I thought was the case. Toyota tries to make it very convenient for this kind of work which is why I thought it didnt need a whole timing chain cover job to do this.

 

G2 heads warp pretty easily if car run out of coolant or oil and the engine. Since no temp gauge By the time the over heat icon comes on dash its too late aluminum head is easy to warp.

That and your posting in the G3 forum. Different engines.