oil filter difficult to remove

Removing that clip will help. Having the correct tool will also.
It will push the clip out of the way. But it's easy to remove, so I do.
If this is your first time removing it, it may be VERY tight!
Longer wrench, tapping the wrench with a small hammer could help it loosen up.
Most places like to see just how tight they can make it!

It doesn't need to be super tight. Lube the "O" ring before installing. Then snug it up.
You could torque it to specs, I don't know what it is though. SOMEONE will come in and tell you.
I snug it with a short wrench, then go a tug more. The clip usually lines up. If not, I move it until it does.

The first time I removed mine I honestly didn't think I would get it off!
Doing it MY way, easy each time.

As always: Results May Vary!

Here is a link to just ONE of may sellers...
64mm Oil Filter Wrench 4 cyl Engines for Toyota,Lexus,Corolla,Rav4,Matrix,Prius | eBay

 

You can ignore the clip. It appears to be enough to stop the filter housing from backing off by itself, but will do nothing to stop removal using the proper tool.

If your filter tool is gripping firmly (i.e., not slipping off when you pull on the wrench), then you just need to pull harder. Get a pipe or breaker bar for more leverage, and it will come off. Don't worry, there's nothing you could be missing.

But not having the proper tool seems to be an issue in many cases reported here. Some tools will be good enough for most cases, and certainly when the same person DIYs their own oil changes, putting the filter housing back on and removing it. But a tool that's good enough for some cases may not be good enough for yours.

And if you find yourself stuck, it will not be a disaster if you need to complete the oil change without replacing the filter.

Good luck.

 

Use your feet to push the wrench. Pull the tab like asrdogman said, got nothing to lose except 1 second which is the time it takes to pull and push the tab back in the slot

 

I'd assume person or persons unknown put it on last time? Assuming yes, just keep at it. The fabled clip does squat. Whoever put it on last maybe didn't lube the o-ring, and/or put it on with an impact driver. If your oil filter socket is good quality, a tight fit, and you've got a wrench with handle 18" or more long, you should win. Eventually.

From the pictures it looks like you're using a regular length ratchet? Get a breaker bar of some sort. Even properly torqued (18 foot pounds), by the time you come around to removing the filter a long handled wrench makes it easier.

My usual is the top arrangement, but the 24" breaker bar could also be used.



I have a long handled 17 mm ratcheting box wrench too, hmm:

 

Yeah need more leverage.

This is the tool I got from amazon. Has the notches.
Just happens to fit my "c" filter too!

Filter wrench

18 ft lbs of torque for filter housing
27 ft lbs of torque to tighten drain plug

I just changed my oil in both yesterday

 

NOT a good idea to NOT change the oil filter. But it's YOUR engine.
The clip DOES get in the way. With the PROPER tool for the filter housing, it will push it out of the way.
But not just that, it will also fit the whole housing to distribute the stress on the housing evening.
Thus keeping it "round" and not creating pressure points making it harder to remove.
Longer wrench, or adding a pipe for torque will make it easier for you.

 

I believe the spec on torque is 25 N-m, or about 18 ft-lb.
drain plug is 39 N-m, or about 29 ft-lb.
I've curiously inspected, but not removed that metal tab thing in all the (two) oil changes I've done on my 2012 v.

 

Good catch. was thinking drain plug torque!

 

Once the cap comes off, who has a specific recommendation for an anti-seize thread dressing that is safe for plastic?

 

I think @Mendel Leisk may have a recommendation, if any

I dont think it needs any

 

Just apply oil to the entire o-ring before putting the cap back on. Make sure the o-ring is seated properly in the groove in the cap.

 

Get a length of steel pipe, slide it over the handle and use the extra leverage to break it loose. Don't touch the clip. Not necessary.

moto g(7) power ?

 

Yeah, Repair Manual just says:

"Reapply a small amount of engine oil to the O-ring"

Considering the resistance I've experienced backing it out, I'd say oil it liberally. It does seem to be the O-ring putting up the fight, not the housing threads. And the the threads are invariably very oily, unless you've sprayed it down with brake cleaner or similar.

I'm going to swap over to spin-on style oil filter bracket this spring, fwiw.

 

The metal clip just sits there. The manual says not to fuss with it, I don't fuss with it, and the cap unscrews just like the manual says.

But the main thing that happens is the rubber O ring grows very, very fond of the metal bore it is screwed into. More fond the more time has passed since the last change. Because my driving falls in the change-every-5000-miles category in the maintenance guide, it is usually not too terribly stubborn when I need to loosen it. My first time after buying the car used, it was a struggle.

One poster suggested using feet on the wrench handle. Not a bad idea, but: double, triple check whatever you have used to raise the car up for your access, and whatever else you have put under there to make sure the car stays up.

Exerting leg-press amounts of force in the right (or wrong) direction can push a car off of some kinds of jacks and stands. Don't take chances with a car that you're under.

 

I believe people have a problem removing the housing because they tighten it too tight.
The clip DOES do something! It keeps the housing from backing out.
WHY would they have it if it wasn't needed?
I use a 8 inch ratchet to remove mine. But I only tighten with a 4.5 inch wrench, then give it one snug push.
Just enough to put pressure on it. Then I put that CLIP back on and it lines up with the groove, or flat pieces,
and then it won't have a possibility of backing out from vibration.
Though at tight as it is, I doubt it will be able to back out.
I do 10,000 mile oil changes.
Maybe I am lucky and have the only one that was perfectly machined and doesn't resist coming off.

 

Yes. My tactic is to put this tree trunk section under there, under a main beam. It's like a large wooden "pill", roughly the same height and diameter. And thicker than me.

And take a cell phone...

 

Maybe they have it to keep the housing from backing out under vibratory forces.

It doesn't interfere in any way with the housing being unscrewed with a wrench. The manual clearly says to leave it alone and just unscrew the housing, and behold, it works.

 

And I'm giving astronomical odds against that EVER happening, clip or none.