Oil Pan replacement

Not sure. What does dealership parts dept want for genuine?

 

If you are uncomfortable DIYing drilling and re-threading the oil pan, you may ask shops who would do that type of work. I am certain a dealer will not do that type of work, but an independent shop might do it for extra labor cost and oil change. That would be a fraction of the oil pan replacement cost.

 

Call Toyota and ask for a price of a new pan, gasket, drain plug and seal.
Then check ebay, and auto parts store.
You should get an oil pay that will fit YOUR Prius.

 

My $0.02: if I'm going to do a job like this, I'm going with first quality parts.

These guys are pretty good, but not Amazon. If you ordered tonight, they'd probably ship Mon or Tues. Faster than any overseas source for sure.

Oil Pan - Toyota (12102-37010) | Toyota Parts

Those gasket cutting tools look like they would make this job very straight forward.

 

If you buy Toyota, you know you are going to get a sturdy item with a flat sealing surface and decent quality threads in the drain. My view is that "it's a fair amount of work and aggravation, and I'm saving several hundred bucks, so I'm not screwing around trying to save $30 or $40 more and (maybe) being less happy with the result."

If I was really pinched, I'd go cheap.

 

You must realize that any oil pan replacement cannot be as good as the one done by robots under factory controlled environmental conditions.

 

Just on my phone, hard to verify, but I think through amayama for me it was around $60 CDN plus & $30 shipping. If you lump in a few more things the shipping doesn't go up much.

They're slowish, 10 days to 2 weeks, but very reliable.

 

Here’s the thing:
To install a TimeSert or Helocoil, you have to drill out the old hole and tap new threads. Well... then just do that and screw in a bigger drain bolt, and Bob’s your uncle. There’s really no need or benefit of screwing in the helicoil. There are many cases where you need to use a specific bolt, or a spark plug, and so you have to use the insert to maintain the thread size. But that isn’t the case here.

 

Yes. As a test I repeated the exercise, going through the catalogue tree, and arrived at the same part number. For your reference, here's the price it showed for my location, in CDN dollars:



Worth noting though: I already had one item in the shopping cart, a rear wiper blade, with a shipping charge of roughly $9 CDN. If my cart was empty, I suspect the shipping charge for oil pan alone would increase by $9. Something like that.

If you go with Amayama, I would suggest to throw a few more items in the cart, watch what it does to the shipping charge. If they're small/compact items, shipping charge will not increase much, if at all.

A new drain bolt for example, would be good to add.

Again, try to get all items from the same country, even if it means spending a buck or two more. That avoids having two shipping charges.

 

Looks like slightly under $60 USD. I say order from Amayama and try to tap the hole larger with a new slightly larger bolt. If it holds the oil from seeping with a new gasket you're set, you'll have a spare pan when it arrives.

moto g(7) power ?

 

Rough checked: those USD prices are pretty the same as what I was quoted in CDN. My screen grab is a litte deceptive, due to already having a $9 CDN shipping charge for a wiper blade refill in the shopping cart.

It's not always the case, but sometimes they're the best deal, and often by a wide margin.

I'd look for one of those nifty pan removal tools too, if you're going to DIY.

 

Surprised no one mentioned trying an oversize plug similar to this....never had to use one, as I've never experienced stripping an oil pan plug, but this would probably be one of the things I tried first, if a new normal plug didn't work. I'm a bit wary of drilling/tapping to far oversized since a lot of newer sheet metal items (like oil pans) have threaded components that have wall thicknesses very similar to the thickness of the sheet metal they're attached to. (like stamped steel oil plug female halves). If that's a confusing description, I'll try to figure a better way of explaining.

M12x1.25 Single Oversize Oil Drain Plug & Gasket - Made in USA - Ships Fast! | eBay
or
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP7043016?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6NGy_MHX5wIVg5OzCh0I1whwEAQYByABEgJTpfD_BwE

On another note, I noticed the OP stated a couple times that the plug would not tighten up with the gasket installed. That would lead one to think it does tighten up when there's no gasket. If that's the case, there must be some thread, however slight, that hasn't been stripped and could be reached by a slightly longer plug.

 

One of the aforementioned methods, a might work:

 

Yeah, the longer or larger (oversized) bolt has been suggested. There is no harm in trying those cheap options first. It would cost only ~$5. That's what worked on my sons Honda. That said, self-threading oversized plug sometimes is a temporary solution that will develop a leak eventually. A longer plug was also suggested but seeing how thin the welded nut on the pan compared to the OEM bolt shown in the video, it is less likely even longer bolt helps.

 

After looking through this thread again, noticed your post with that info.

Also, looking back through the thread makes me recognize, 110%, that the solution for the OPs problem needs to be as simple as possible. Purchase an oversize plug and if it works, be done with it. Not everyone is equipped to be under a car drilling on an oil pan. Doing it is bad enough, doing it without the car being on a lift is just going to be 10x worse for a new DIYer.

Maybe just go to the nearest NAPA and find out what they have available for oversize plugs. At least NAPA still seems to have employess that are a bit more old-school and know what they're doing for the most-part. There may even be a double oversize plug available if it's badly stripped. (not likely since it still snugs up tho)