Gas engine won't run. Prius V 140,000 auction car no prior history

I bought this car at an auction, I think someone has done this before. I read their thread but did not shed any useful info.
Facts:

• Press power bottom, car goes to ready for 5ish seconds then goes to ACC mode with all the dash lights on.
• Brand new 12v battery.
• Fob key working.
• Traction battery shows 1 bar
• When I check the oil after the tow truck delivered the car, it had no oil. Filled it up with mobil 1 0w-20. No leaks on the floor
• It appears the car was sitting in the lot since November.
• Two codes from the DTC stick out to me but I don't think this codes prevent the engine from running (May be run lousy but run non the less) Codes are for the throttle position sensor and for the camshaft position. (I'll post the exact code later.
• I looked inside the throttle to inspect for sticky or dirty door but it was clean, I noticed some oil pulled in the bottom of the throttle but did not remove the throttle to see how much oil there was.

At this point I'm about to have tow to a dealer or a reputable mechanic. But I want to exhaust all my options before that. I Have reset the computer codes and nothing, also tried the "Emergency start" suggested on the owners manual (ACC mode then Brake+Hold power for 15 sec)

The only thing I have not tried is the "Maintenance Mode" where the gas engine is supposed to stay running. If I do that, and get the engine to ru will that charge the traction battery?

Thanks y'all!

 

Thanks, What you say sounds right. I looking in to checking the voltage and health on the battery.
And I had no idea the camshaft will prevent the start. By the way the actual code is P0012 Intake (a) (Bank 1) Camshaft position timing over/retardant.
Do think that if I get a ready for a short period before it goes back to ACC a bad inverter can be ruled out?

 

Codes:

• C1259
• P3000
• P3191
• P3190
• P0121
• P0012

 

Yea, I think so too...Some users point to check the voltage of the traction battery and address the other codes like the the throttle. Have you cleaned the throttle body before? The Chilton manual says that the gasket is not reusable. Is this also true?

 

Me too...I'll have the throttle clean this weekend and after that, If I can't find any one around Dallas with a #prolong charger who is whiling to rent it to me, I'll tow it to the dealer to see if they will charge the battery (Somehow). I'm hesitant to buy a Prolong system myself since I'm not sure I'm keeping this car.

 

Update: I just ran test with ELM 327 (Which by the way, purchased a MicroMechanic at target for $14 and used Car Scanner for android to get the info I needed)
Hybrid Battery Pack Remaining Life 5%
Hybrid Battery Vol 192V
Battery block V05 - 13.8V (Lowest)
Battery block V14 - 14.19V (Highest)
Based on this, the traction battery is too low to turn the gas engine...? I know someone also suggested to manually turn the engine to rule possible locking of the engine due to low oil and cleaning the MAF and throttle. Question, once all other possibilities are ruled out, how can I get passed the low Voltage on the traction battery? I would want to avoid towing it to the dealer or a repair show where they can hold the car hostage, so to speak, since it does not run.
Also, the numbers above would not be affected by weather too much right? When I took the readings it was 42°F outside

 

Yea, I'm now looking to get the pack reconditioned with a grid charger. Now, more and more the theory that the previous owner was having issues with the battery and led to having the car towed and ultimately unclaimed.
I'm going to make a thread to see if anyone is selling / renting / lending a grid charger