Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v

The hose going to the pump is warm, the hoses going into the heat exchanger in the cat are warm, but coming out of there they are not warm. I am thinking I have something plugged up.

 

Might even be something wonky in the coolant hose rerouting, due to fourth-into-third adaption? I'd confess to not even understanding the stock routing, let alone the adaptions.

 

How did you evacuate air from the system? There are tools for that IIRC or some cars have a valve that allows "burping" by running the car with the valve open for several warm up cycles.

 

He's using the same routing as mine and I'm not having any problems. I suggested using a garden hose to verify flow through the exhaust heat exchanger and heater core and he's going to try that.

 

My temp light still comes on briefly, occasionally. When it happens my radiator is still cold indicating the thermostat hasn't opened. Probably an air bubble got to the thermostat. Try removing the thermostat motor from inside the housing. There's a metal bar and a spring. If you push in and twist, the motor will come out. Then run with the empty housing installed.
Good luck!!!!
- Fix that Prius !!!

 

Can this ZR engine fit a gen2 Prius, specifically, a 2007 Prius?

 

No

 

Why is this? Will there be a complication from using the 4 Gen damper and flywheel?

My Prius is a 2012, and tonight I just swapped the 3rd Gen engine with a 4th Gen engine, but I kept the 4th Gen flywheel and damper on. It was a bear to put back in, but I managed... and now I'm reading that I may need to take it back out and replace the flywheel and damper with the 3rd Gen... am I screwed or should I just move forward?

 

Any issues with the fix tight now? So y being scared? Just move forward!

 

The Gen 4 transaxle damper splines are larger diameter then the Gen 3. And the Gen 4 flywheel is thicker then the Gen 3. In other words, I didn’t think they would work, and put back what I knew would. But you are there and I’m not. Short of trying to start the car, I’m not sure how you can determine if the splines are meshed with the shaft.

 

This cannot work. There's a lot of information here and on YouTube about how to do this. You don't understand how to do what you did. It won't work. I'm sure you broke a bunch of stuff forcing it together.
- Fix That Prius !!! or Break That Prius !!!

 

The "bear" I referred to wasn't the actual aligning of the engine and transmission - I bolted it back just fine with no indication of 'breaking a bunch of stuff'. The bear was getting the engine lowered to the correct height because of the tight space... I did not remove the exhaust manifold as you did, so that granted me less space to maneuver. The 'broke a bunch of stuff' comment seems unnecessary.

cnc97, in response to your saying that the Gen 4 damper splines are larger than the Gen 3... I looked for both dampers on parts.toyota.com and do not see specifics for this. Is this something you tested yourself and know for a fact? If this is true then there is no point in moving further until I exchange the flywheel and damper.

Ragingfit, as for the removal and installation, I followed your videos word-for-word except for the replacement of the flywheel and sub-assembly, which I somehow missed originally. I will admit I am not as adept as you appear to be, but my car broke, I don't have the money to repair or buy another, and I need a vehicle to move forward with my life, so desperation warranted my unwise decision to tackle this myself with my level of understanding. Have a good chuckle if you'd like, but it's my predicament.

As much as I hate to, I may have to take the engine out and make this change, because all I have are guesses and assumptions. As for the flywheel thickness of the Gen 3 and 4, I measured them both before installation and they were the same.

 

There was definitely a difference on the damper and flywheel combo, but it’s been 18 months since I did my swap so I don’t remember exactly what the difference was. I was pretty sure it was the spline diameter. It might have been the overall length of damper and flywheel from the block casting as installed. But since you can’t put the Gen 3 damper on the Gen 4 flywheel, you have to use the Gen 3 items.

 

And just to add a point of order, desperation was the reasoning behind my purchase and use of the Gen 4 short block. I had just spent $4k on my Prius 90 days earlier when I bought it. There was no way that I was going to spend $1750 (1400 plus 350 core) on a “running core” that my local yard may still have with 180k miles, when the Gen 4 was available for 1200 and no core that barely had enough miles to require its first oil change.

With all the physical differences on the assembled engines, I made the Gen 4 look as close as physically possible to the removed Gen 3 as I could. The fact that you are willing to tackle a job of this magnitude means that you at more adept then you give yourself credit for. That is something that I will not attempt to take away from you.

 

So I have taken the Gen 4 engine back out, swapped the flywheel/damper assembly with the Gen 3, and dropped it back into the engine bay. It was much easier lowering it into position because I took better care of leveling it. As for the actual fitment to the transmission - these videos didn't go much into explaining the process of lining the damper with the transaxle shaft. I did rotate the crankshaft back and forth a little while slowly pushing it together. I took care not to force it together via transmission bolts either. Seeing as how I can't directly inspect it, I'm a bit paranoid, as I've read professional mechanics talking about alignment tools, etc.

As for 'damage' from placing the Gen 4 flywheel/damper in originally - I couldn't tell that anything was damaged. The bellhouse plate where the damper touches was barely scuffed, but nothing major. The Gen 4 damper splines are, in fact, larger than the Gen 3 transaxle shaft. I'll chalk this one up to working too fast. I do appreciate Ragingfit taking the time to video this process. I think people assume this is a much more complicated process than it actually is. These videos help to demystify the process. Now, on to hooking up all the hoses and electrical wiring.

 

Keep us posted on your progress.

 

Jacob!! Wow! Hats off to doing the process over. We all will remember this, when and if we tackle the same thing. Looking forward to when you officially push the power button...................

 

Anyone ever get the repinning schematic from Sanddg? Sandog if you can hear me there is another Prius in trouble, give us a napkin schematic or something so we can repin our egr wires without going for a test drive, hell PM me your phone number lol! How did you tickle the pins out?

I am hoping to do this swap using all 4th gen parts except flywheel, damper and exhaust manifold. .

Still a bit confused on how the extra coolant line gets Td in and the repinning. Also did he repin MAP sensor too or just egr? I don't mind swapping map sensors if there's nothing inherently wrong with Gen 3.

I guess there's only 6 combinations to repin 3 wires what could go wrong haha

Any help would be greatly appreciated, as a matter of fact if you tell me how to do it I will make a video of bending the egr pipes and repinning the plug. So we can just make one video thread, make it a sticky and call it a day.

Edit:Ok well Dave Hanson covers most of my questions in this thread: HERE.

Very well done gentleman. I will still make a video just for those who may want to see these procedures executed.

 

I had a conversation with @RightOnTime some time back, and he says the red and purple wires swap. They're diagonally across from each other at corners, swap corners.

 

Was plugging everything up... about ready to test it out, and then I wrenched the ground connector around and ripped it off when trying to drill it out... not sure how to go about replacing this, or where to find one. Question is: can I rig up something, just as long as the metal touches the engine, or should I just look into replacing it?