Oil loss

In the gasket master head gasket change video they use unorthodox technique to apply form-in-place gasket, but I'm thinking it's not a bad technique, more suited for humans than robots. The repair manual goes on about apply a specific "diameter" of bead, for various measured distances. I get the impression this is more to suit the engineers and draftsmen, and near impossible to achieve in practice. The gasket master technique:

Holding the tube of fipg gasket (with no applicator tube), dab along the seam, at a regular interval, trying to apply relatively equal dabs: roughly a split-pea-sized amount every 3/4". Then run a finger along, joining/smoothing all the dabs, and if any zones look/feel low, put an extra dab or two and smooth it in.

I think in practice that would work very well, it just doesn't look good on a technical document or drawing.

New head gasket replacement video from Gasket Masters | PriusChat

 

I applaude anyone who does head gasket sealing successfully. Always took me two times. The main issue for me was torquing the head bolts in the right order and at the exact torque for each bolt. One 1/2 turn too much meant a leak. Taught me a lot about patience.................and a lot of respect for those who have mastered this!!!

 

I went to do a lexus the other day, looks similar with the torque head bolts and they all stripped out. I took it as an omen and replaced it with a jdm engine.On the gen3 engine I applied the sealant similar to the video and let it dry for a few minutes and then torqued it in. Seemed to have worked. Usually if you have a problem you will see it in the first 10k miles. Shavings, noise, something will show. My buddy who drives this one is quite happy with it. And now after 30k miles on the rering, my warranty has expired. Its not that bad of a job but the oil pan, then there is a mid pan, everything is sealed with goo. Cheaper than felpro but I prefer gaskets.

 

I have not cleaned the egr or manifold yet, my next project when my garage is warmer. Do you have an idea of what an oil collection can would cost?

Kroil for frozen nuts and bolts! The 8 oz can will last you a lifetime.

I looked for a clean soot and gunk clean electrode and no black or gummy build up on the interior screw threads. I'm not a total motorhead so my analysis could be wrong. I'll get there though, I have 200K+ original miles and hope to squeeze 500K out of my 2011 gen 3 so I'm sure I'll have projects ahead.

210K and I just recently changed her plugs. EGR is my next project. Is replacing the egr cleaner necessary?

Ecolab grease lift concentrate is excellent. Have any friends with a restaurant?

 

Boiler Plate info:

The simplest way to see where you're at, is to check the degree of carbon build up in the EGR pipe, a stainless steel connecting pipe between the EGR valve and intake manifold. Watch @NutzAboutBolts video #16 here:

Nutz About Bolts Prius Maintenance Videos | PriusChat

Two or three other videos linked there too, for the full cleaning of the intake manifold, full EGR clean, and Oil Catch Can install.

Good thread:

EGR & Intake Manifold Clean Results | PriusChat

Another:

Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock! | PriusChat

Some tools worth having:

E8 Torx socket (mandatory)
E6 Torx socket (optional, but good to have, to remove the throttle body studs from intake manifold)
3/8" ratchet wrench, regular and long handle, flex head, you can never have enough (or 1/2 plus reducer)
1/4" ratchet wrench, or 3/8" to 1/4" reducer
Ratchet extensions: you can never have enough
Long needle nose piers, straight and bent tip
Ratcheting 12mm box wrench (optional, but makes disconnection of the EGR cooler from exhaust easier)
Torque wrench (3/8" and 1/4" both good to have)
Floor jack and safety stands (or ramps): basically some method to raise front, if you need to take underpanel off, which you may need to, both for access and to recover dropped items.