Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

Recheck all the connections. And while the engine is running, you can spray carb cleaner around
anywhere vacuum is. Injector seals, intake manifold, etc. Stuff like that. There could be a cracked
hose or connector. It's a slow process, but worth it.

 

Okay yeah. I will do it soon. So basically what you are saying is if there was absolutely no leak, removing the dip stick from the OCC with engine running wouldn't have created any vacuum and the dip stuck wouldn't have been sucked into the OCC itself? So won't this be a good measure for checking if the leak has been fixed?

 

There IS vacuum through the occ, when the pcv valve is open. So when you removed the ds, you created a vacuum leak.

 

You create a leak when the dipstick is pulled out. The loss of suction in the line causes the PCV valve to close. This causes a change in idle speed. When you reinsert the dipstick the PCV valve opens and you can sense the change in idle speed again. This is a way to check that the PCV valve is operating correctly. You have just invented a new procedure, congratulations....

 

Right! I just watched a couple of videos on Youtube. Some people did say they fixed the knocking by cleaning the injectors so I'll do that as well and update here!

 

That was the first thing I did. and I just swapped the coils, but the code stayed with the same cylinders.

 

Would you consider doing one of the following, "just for science"?

Replace plugs with Denso Iridium Twin Tip, or, regap Denso Iridium long life plugs to 0.035" (original is 0.044").

You need to be very gentle with feeler gauges on the iridium plugs!

I probably would not attempt to re-gap the Twin Tip. It comes out of the box at 0.040".

I can try this on my own car too, but since I don't have a cold start misfire problem to fix, it won't be a very exciting story.

 

IIRC Denso cautions to not adjust their spark plug gaps.

 

"Proper gapping technique should be followed with any spark plug, but special care should be taken with fine wire plugs. Denso will not warranty a plug who’s center electrode is snapped during gapping."

Here is the relevant page from Denso.

Denso has cautioned against gapping iridium plugs in the past IIRC.

 

I check gaps, to verify they're per spec. If they're off I would bring them back, would suspect the box was dropped. That's never happened though. In the last 20~30 years it seems like pre-gapped, ready to install plugs are the norm. And with the high end iridium the gap barely changes over the lifespan.

Up here, at my go-to place, the iridium plugs are around $20 apiece. Through dealership maybe $25. There's no way I would (just for science) take perfectly good plugs and reduce the gap from spec significantly.

 

$20 a PLUG???? It would be cheaper to drive to the states and back to get them!
I put Bosch iridium in. No problems....

 

Then the problem is likely the injector or wiring...
Well, spark plug... so switch the plugs. If it moves, you know it's the plug.
Unless water is getting into the cylinder because of a bad head gasket.

 

Yeah maybe prices have come down a bit. I just checked on Amazon.ca, Denso SC16HR11 are $15.26 (CDN) apiece, probably my "place" would be about the same. That's roughly $11.44 USD.

McGeorge Toyota Part (in the States) shows the stock plug for $8.77 US (discounted from list ($13.20).

 

What about ebay? Or a different brand?

 

Be careful out there.

Edit: Since this link will expire at some point, what it shows is photos of what I am 99% certain are genuine Denso iridium plugs in genuine Toyota OEM parts boxes, offered at made in china prices from a chinese factory.

 

Or else what?!?!

 

I agree. That's why I bought Bosch.

 

$20 is chump change for something that's so important to your engine and will last you 120,000+ miles...

Get yer dang plugs from a store you find listed on the brand's website.

 

I finally got some oil caught in my OCC!! Yaay!

UDPATE:
1. OCC is working perfectly fine.
2. Exhaust is now perfectly clean. Even cleaner than my Civic.
3. Cleaned In-take manifold today it had been sitting over night. Started the car, there was no knocking. After about 25 seconds, it knocked but very lightly and went away in next 5 seconds. My MAF sensor was unplugged (may be thats why?)
4. I check all hoses by spraying carb cleaner, had a OBD2 scanner plugged in, there was no RPM fluctuation at all which means there's no vacuum issue.
5. I cleaned the MAP sensor after all this, and then installed air filter box and plugged the MAF sensor back in. Started the car in Maintenance mode, no knocking.
6. When I drove it, as soon as it Shifted from EV to ICE, there was very bad knocking, (while driving), and it continued again for 15 or so seconds.
7. SOMETHING WEIRD: There is some strange noise from transmission I guess whenever ICE is running and car is in N (Neutral), it goes away as soon as you shift to P/D/B. It can only be heard inside a garage whenever there's no outside noise.

Now I am gonna wait for a few hours and will start it again.