TS Codes C1252, C1256, C1391, Prius 2005, 105k, Had Front Brakes and Rotors Replaced 4 Months ago

I believe there's an extended warranty for this brake issue. And it expires December 2017. So you might want to get this checked out at the dealer ASAP. Verify the extended warranty campaign is available for your car.......I'm pretty sure it is.

 

You'll always have the 'current' B1421 solar sensor code if it's dusk or night (or indoors) when you read the codes.

As for the historical servomotor code, I'd make a note of it, clear it, and see if it ever comes back.

As for the brake codes, sure does look like the accumulator/pump, some kind of leak in the actuator, or both. You've got a Gen 2, where those are combined in one assembly anyway, so there's little point in trying to pin it down further. As JC91006 suggested, it's worth checking whether replacement will be covered under a warranty extension.

-Chap

 

In my view, this might be some kind of coincidence, since prior to the brake job, you've never experienced something like this.

Y not erase the codes first, then drive, and see what happens? Is the low pressure...code comes up again as a current code, you've got to try checking if your brake fluids is at the right level on the reservoir. If it is, then the abs pump accumulator has some issues. Check if your warranty still stands on that.

I don't think the relay you've placed an order for would do any good. But you could try it though.

The buzzer noise was just an indication of something wasn't OK on the brake system.

For the solar ..code, does the AC system intermittently work, and stops cooling sometimes? If it does, check the dashboard to see if the solar sensor has fallen off, or has being covered with dust.

Pls, get back to the house, and tell us how it went.


Dxta

 

Don't worry about the B1421 unless you know the sensor was in direct sunlight when you read the codes. It is normal to see that code whenever the sensor is shaded or in the dark, as the repair manual will tell you.

The buzzer noise is an indicator that "something wasn't OK" in the brake system, but out of a lot of possible brake system problems, the buzzer is only used for about half a dozen of the most severe (there's a chart in the repair manual showing which ones).

I don't think I'd waste the time to clear those codes and wait for them to come back, but rather get the car, with the current brake codes active, to a dealer appointment, especially if JC91006 is right about the existence of a warranty extension that expires this month.

-Chap

 

Ha same issue here. Started with a brief warning sound then lights for 20 seconds at random start ups a week after new front pads & rotors. Cleared by using the obd pin jump & brake pumping then after an looking drive the brake vac and other came on & remained even after restarting.

Just cleared codes yesterday with techstream even the DTC stuff, disconnected the battery & relays (unhooked during brake job too), then pumped the brakes, replaced relays ,pumping again and reconnected the 12v battery. Brake fluid level is fine.

Wish me luck. Going to try a brake flush next if it comes back then sadly look at actuators. Mine is making lots of noise lately & car had a slow leak sound coming from under the hood near lower passenger side before changing the brakes so who knows if that's related. Wish me luck!

 

I have precisely those codes (C1252, C1256, and C1391), doubt you will see this post but what was fix !

I am reading briefly on here that it could be the Skid Control ECU which is much cheaper than the actuator. Also have your symptoms with the hard brake pedal while the car beeps and then once beeps go away brakes are back to normal....

 

Similar issue: (C1252, C1256, and C1391), red triangle, car dies (remained in neutral). Shop, which worked on brakes and put in new hybrid battery says "possible internal fault in ABS module." Said take to dealer, and if dies again, do a hard reset to clear codes to drive it (HV battery plug and 12 v battery disconnect).

Prior weeks a12v battery died when it sat for a month. Related? Did brake actuator draw it down to keep pressure?

What does "secondary warranty" above mean?

 

If by that, you're referring to this (in the Extended Warranty document):

Warranty Enhancement Program Details

... then, in theory, if you had a 2009 MY that went into service in early 2010, you may have some time to claim the warranty, but only if the ODO has less than 150,000 miles showing on it.