Oil filter leak - please help

I would not put lube on your threads. You could have the opposite problem - your canister backing out and dumping your oil while on the freeway. Just buy another canister.

Pixel XL ?

 

They are likely coated in oil already after removal.

 

Lube the oil filter cap thread w/silicon spray?

 

The threads on the plastic cap, still use oil on the o-ring.

 

With the exception of blowing the engine. It would be kinda funny if lubing the threads loosened it enough that it backed out.

Dang. Another thing to worry & check. But a very small price to pay for getting this to easy. Kinda crazy annoying now. I used to look forward to oil changes. 20 minutes, a cup of coffee and a reason to not work, work for a few. It is kinda cathartic and pleasant.
Now when it flashs, an "oh sheet" thought runs threw me wi lil brain.

Glad this is an old, old thread. Bet the OP would feel hijacked (I hope it's not in the present tense)

 

As a supplement to the excellent PDF guide mentioned, here are a couple of nice blurry quick'n'dirty pics of the oil filter housing from a side view, showing where the o-ring goes (and doesn't go).

 

You probably need a few more postings (5) to be able to post pics. I'll help you out:


A scan of the box I took a few years back. Toyota (and Honda) always use that "NG", which I take it is short for "No Good".

I've put the O-ring in the correct position, then found it up at the NG location, when next removing it. You really want to oil it good. I've thrown in the towel, going to convert to spin-on at my spring oil change.

 

Why the six abject consternation emoticons, be happy for me.

 

I will be doing my first oil change with the spin-off in a few weeks. Looking forward to it.

 

Hopefully it doesn’t turn out like mine:

What did you do to your Prime today?

Definitely had “attachment issues”.

But @The Critic and I got it sorted.

 

That was the oil filter put on at the factory? ( I mighta asked before)
The factory people are usually diligent about torque specs.

 

Yes.

They GFT’d it.

But I’m a persistent lad.

 

Not sure if I've posted this before: it shows the the permanent housing filter style 90% (18 ft/lb), but in one pic shows the spin-on, and a torque spec of 13 ft/lb.

Maybe at the factory they'd just had everyone switch jobs, and the guy that did yours was fresh from wheel install.

 

Or the fluids were filled on a Monday.

Definitely someone was their most attentive on assembly day for our Prime.

 

@ Mendel Leisk, the OE filter can be bought for too cheap, suggesting it is cheap. Try a (better) aftermarket filter with higher quality gasket. Wouldn’t hurt much to try once....

 

The aftermarket filters with flat gaskets tend to seep during long service intervals.

 

That’s strange, the ones I’ve gotten were/are round just like the original...

 

I got my 90915-YZZF2 (spin-on style) filter. Parts guy mentioned there's also 90915-YZZF1, essentially the same, but a little longer, more filter area. I see there's an old thread here on the subject:

TOYO oil filter : larger 90915 - YZZF1 : any users ? | PriusChat

The latter filter's used in the RAV4 and others:

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=2ahUKEwj9kazA9ejmAhXKFTQIHaaJBmkQFjACegQIBxAC&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.toyota.com%2Ftoyota-owners-theme%2Fpdf%2F06_OilFilters2015_final%255B1%255D.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1lP7wfNplTsfwK3egTHclY

 

Ahhh, you've already gone over to the dark side....

I was seriously thinking about this until after a bit of research I realized:

1. I can use the exact same filter for the v and my Scion iQ.

2. The engine in the iQ is such that modification to spin on type is not possible.

3. I'd have to do a bit of research again to find the best filter I'd be happy with.

Fram's site is pretty good about filter specs, but is down right now. Wix is mentioned in the thread you linked so I'm going to check it out...

moto g(7) power ?