Just wanted to pass this info along, looks I have been thru a lot of unnecessary stress the past several months with my 2005 base prius. I bought it from a used car dealer in July 2018 with 109k miles. It now has 176k miles. It has been a dream to drive compared to so many other cars I've had, (my last vehicle was a Ford Expedition) but in the past few months it has turned into a nightmare. I started seeing the dashboard go out a few months ago and then the ABS system which renders the car very dangerous to drive. I went on youtube and tried all the tricks such as the paper clip method to clear the ABS lights and unplugging the 12v battery and plugging it back in to make the dashboard lights / cruise control come back on. Those tricks do work, but I should have gone with the first post I read on this site. Some guy here mentioned that 99% of the time its just the 12v battery that needs to be replaced. Several times I ran a diagnostic test of the battery and felt that it was in the correct range, so I ruled this out. I was only dipping to 11.9 volts for a second and then jumped up to and stayed at 12 even with the lights on. Electrical issues can be really wonky is all I can say. I talked to a guy at autozone a few days ago and told him the range and he said he gets prius owners coming in every 2 years to get another battery and that I should replace it asap. Now It seems that it may have indeed been the 12v battery that needed to be replaced as the dashboard lights are back on, its got a little more pep, and the ABS brake lights / exclamation point have gone off. Also the reverse beep is coming back on and I have not heard that sound since a few months after I bought the car. Truthfully only time will tell as I only did this a couple of days ago, but I am noticing a difference already so I thought I would pass this info along now before I forget about it and move on. I coughed up $250 at firestone who luckily had a 12v prius battery on hand. I have my cell phone plugged into the lighter a lot and that probably does its damage over time. Two weeks ago I paid $100 for a diagnostic at the Toyota dealer and they seemingly just wanted to rip me off. The said it was a computer issue that would cost 3k, and by the way you need new tires at the cost of $680. "You could always buy a new one sir" . Total Garbage. I bought this car to go the distance and I maintain it well. If you are getting these symptoms, get the 12v battery replaced, it might be the actual solution before you get ripped off left and right. I would not cut any corners tho, make sure its the right battery. I tried to get a cheaper replacement at Walmart and that did not go so well, the mechanics bailed on the install after 3 hours of trying to install it. Get someone who knows what they are doing. Keeping my fingers crossed, hopefully the nightmare is over. I was about to sell it for parts on ebay.
let the word go forth, from this time and place, to friend and foe alike: to all the naysayers who define 12v battery health good, even below 12 volts
Main difference with a Prius 12v battery is that it doesn't start the engine like in a regular car because the hybrid battery starts the engine. In a regular car when you start the engine you can tell the 12v is going bad because it has a harder time running the starter motor. This means the in Prius cold cranking amps rating is not as important as the amp-hour rating... It also means that because of this "specialized" type of battery there's all kinds of overpriced scams when people sell Prius batteries in the 35 amp-hour range. As many on here know I use 12v wheelchair batteries rated at 55 amp-hours in the $100 price range. The current 12v battery I put in my car in early January 2013 and it's still going strong, even though it's getting towards the end.
Read up, get a multi-meter and an electronic 12 volt battery load tester (Solar BA9 for example), and you can be the "battery guy" in your circle. Not knowing is the main problem.
I'm sorry that your had to experience this the hard way. My 'new' 12V battery had been sitting on a warehouse shelf so long it needed to be topped-off before my Gen2 responded normally. An OBD2 code reader, a Trio of reputable Smart Apps, and a little Prius Chat can save you alot of headaches and money. Many recommendations here on readers. I went with an $11 VeePeak available from Amazon, and it has worked seamlessly with the following Smart Apps: Torque Hybrid Assist Dr. Prius / Dr.Hybrid Dash Command I agree that the Gen 2 Prius is, IMO, the best car I have owned. It The durability, handling, accessories, economy, and practically beat any other vehicle I've owned that's 11 years old. My only trouble has been on the flaky, dishonest hybrid mechanics in my area. Prius Chat has never failed to respond to my challenges with understanding hybrid cars. I've even bought merchandise from the PC store, altho I'm not sure what its current state is. It's participation seems to wax and wane.
In the interest of good diagnostic bookmaking, can we make sure that word also goes forth, from this time and place?
Sometimes 12 volt issues have been reported to be caused just by not having a battery cable anchored down at either end. Have you double-checked that your grounding cable has got a good bite on bare metal where it's connected to the car body? Is the post connections on tight?
The brakes and dash went out today at the worst possible time and place. In snow capped mountains on the other side of la near Bakersfield....im confident the install was done well. Just wishful thinking. The toyo dealer was probably right. It was throwing code 1247....but i wont be throwing a lot more money at this. Im about done. Too bad you cant reinstall the operating system or whatever. No. That occurred to me today however. It was a gamble i was willing to take No. That occurred to me today however. It was a gamble i was willing to take It all looks solid But the paperclip method will clear the abs for like a day or 2. I would have really been screwed going down a steep decline with no brakes. It was pretty hairy for a second. Theres nothing physically wrong with the brakes. Its just that the comp thinks there is. After u clear the abs lights the car operates exactly as it should.
see pat wong's reccomendation in the thread, 'brake stroke sensor switch'. i don't see anything about a computer, just a replacement switch and some calibration time with tech stream and repair manual
Thanks bisco. I will try that. The toyo dealer said it was the computer gone wild. But they could not actually give me a clear answer of what is going on and I didnt get the feeling that they cared much due to the cars age.
tested the "new" 12v battery today, its at 11.6 volts. Went to firestone to get another one. Maybe its the battery after all. I will post the update
Not to give more, worries, and it is possible the "new" battery had been sitting around awhile (I doubt Firestone has much demand for them)....but...I would start thinking about a drain on the 12v. Do you store the key fob anywhere near the car....they constantly talk to each other and I have read (no personal experience), that leaving the fob near the car can eventually draw down the 12v. Also, anything else, especially aftermarket alarm, stereo, etc. that might be pulling power from the 12v when the car is off.
A new battery showing 11.6 is way too low. When getting the new one ask for an electronic load test to be done. If they can't manage that you should maybe shop elsewhere. The test should show at least 12.5 volts, and CCA should be well above spec, say 75~100 more.