LOL yes.. so I come home with my kid, I always plug in the car first before I shut off the car so I can keep the air running. Of course the car shuts off when I connect the charging cable but I had to do that in the dark..
Wow, that's a news for me. I knew the car would not let me START if the cord is plugged or the charge port door is open, but stopping the car from READY when the cord is plugged is a function I did not know.
I get that, but traveling down the road with a full battery and the heater on should not trigger the engine to come on when I am in EV mode. The best economy in this situation is to keep the engine off. Let ME decide when to engage the engine. I get that using the HVAC is going to reduce my range and I am perfectly OK with that. What is the point of an EV mode if it doesn't go EV?
have you considered the possibility that something is not right with your car? unless the temp in oregon goes below 14f, i can't see any reason for the engine to fire in ev mode, unless you press the front defrost button.
This. It took me a while to figure this out. Once the front defrost button is pushed, the ICE runs on my Prime Advanced until I turn off the car. I've learned Not to use it unless I absolutely have to, once I cycled the car off & on at a Red light just to get back to EV mode. Rob43
It should go back to EV mode once you've turned the defroster off. My understanding is that the engine starts it will run through what is called a warm up cycle (59°C) when its done with the cycle it will go back to EV mode with defogger still on but when engine temp is below 59°C it will start engine again. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Also, if you don't want the ICE to turn on what to do is set the HVAC to blow at the feet and the windshield and just press auto to defog instead of pressing the defogger button. Might be slower but it works. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
I literally never use the front defrost button. Like I say, it makes no sense. Mine won't go back to EV after it starts the engine unless I turn off the car and turn it back on again. I've done that at stop lights multiple times. Sometimes it does get below 14, like 5 days a year. Usually it is in the 30s in the winter here. It's entirely possible that something is wrong. I already have a bad seat sensor in the rear and now the TMPS has stopped working. How do I know? Because I put on my winter tires that don't have sensors and the light isn't coming on.
By any chance are your summer wheel rims stored close to where you park the car at home? Are you driving the car more than roughly 15 minutes at a time while away from home? Several members here have revealed that their TPMS systems can get refreshed from detecting the registered wheel/sensor sets stored next to the car in their garage. This likely varies with how long the car is powered on while sitting next to the wheels, some cars may not be turned on long enough there to catch all four signals. And, it appears that when the registered TPMS sensors initially go undetected, the car has to run a significant distance or time before the initial TPMS warning is flagged. (I think I have gone about 10 miles / 15 minutes in my Subaru, not sure on the Prius.) And this is per trip segment / power-on cycle time, so if the car takes only short trips, it is possible to go the entire winter without a TPMS warning. However, once it takes a trip long enough to give a warning, then subsequent trips produce warnings very quickly.
The factory wheels are stored in a shed in the back yard so maybe 50 feet away from where I park. Last night I drove for 1/2 an hour 3 times. I've driven a fair amount since I swapped tires. I am confused though. What is the point of a system that doesn't detect an out of normal condition for half an hour? I mean you going to drive half an hour on a flat tire before the system detects it? My Sienna throws the light within seconds of starting out after I swap tires.
When a sensor is present and reporting pressure, a low pressure condition is reported immediately. The significant delay is for not receiving any reports at all from a given sensor.
Please excuse me if this has been covered. I just went to the end without much reading. I live in Chicagoland where winters can be really freakin' cold. It's not winter yet and I'm really freakin' sick of freezing my tukas off going to work. ... I've got a rather ample tukas and its 25-miles to work. Why do I get such sucky heat? ... and how can I fix this issue? TIA FOR ALL / ANY HELP.
As far as PRIME is concerned, switching to HV provides plenty of heat. That's why I drive mostly HV during winter months. Even though it is acclaimed as most efficient automobile electric heater, a pathetic heat pump never warms up the cabin temp high enough.
1/2hr isn't long enough. I didn't get my low TPMS light until about 40-45 mins of run time. Usually, my light stays off in the winter because my all-season tires are nearby so the car detects it. Also, you're confusing two different scenarios. The first is the light coming on because the system can't detect a signal. The second (Sienna scenario) is the light coming on because of low pressure. I'm pretty sure if you park your car in the garage/driveway and leave it on, go into your shed, release the air in the tire, the car will detect a low pressure much sooner than 30 minutes.
My first winter with a prime, so it's all new to me. But my ice will turn off eventually, after being enabled by pressing defrost. Just pressed off on the ac and waited like 20 min.