Won't run after battery repair

11.6v is too low, it may start the car but it's already a depleted battery and needs to be charged or replaced (if it's over 5 years old, you can think about just replacing it).

Also your description of your hv battery seems like it's not very balanced if you have higher voltage modules in the middle of the pack and lower voltage modules towards to sides. The variance on these modules should be very close, maybe off by .1v to .3v maximum.

 

Oh hell. I saw a video that told me to rearrange the modules so the middle has the higher voltage. The readings on all the modules are a very broad range. If you would like I'll send the readings. The highest module is 7.72v and the lowest is 7.5v. I ordered a charger that I was thinking of charging all the modules up to a reasonable level. Would you say i need to drain the modules and then charge again? Plus, would that be only the modules that are at a specific level?\

I was thinking of jump starting the car to see if the Aux battery really is bad. I have had so many issues with the Aux battery before the Hybrid battery. I always have to reset the Aux battery to get the dash to work. I also have had 2 times I jumped the car to start it, but later realized the car would start and the dash work properly if I unplugged the Red relay/fuse box on the positive or just the negative terminal. I'm lost on what will make this car start.

 

You tacked onto an existing thread that is titled "Won't run after battery repair", but I am just a little confused trying to understand whatever issues you have.

You said:

Then you said:

So does the car go READY? Are you pressing the Start button twice with your foot on the brake after every time you reconnect the 12 V battery? What state, exactly, is the car in when you get the 11.6/11.81 V reading?

The image you posted in post #20 shows you have problems with both the 12 V battery and also the HV battery.

Has this car been the subject of a jump-start at any stage recently?

 

Hey thanks for your response. First question. No I don't see READY light turned on. and I do press the button twice. 11.6 V is when the power is turned on as if I were starting the engine.

Second question. I had to jump start it about a month ago. That was when I was seeing problems with the 12V battery more persistent. Then I found out unplugging the 12V battery or the Wire to the relay would reset the car and I could then turn on all power to the dash and engine.

I was thinking of getting a jump start today and then recharge the 12V battery or replace it. Your thoughts?

 

Your car is not recognizing that the HV battery is installed. Either you haven't performed the third step of the safety switch installation (pressing straight down on the handle until it clicks) to satisfy the interlock, or the wire that plugs into the bottom of the safety plug receptacle wasn't plugged on after rebuild, or there is a bad connection somewhere in that wire line.

 

Also, almost every Toyota repair manual procedure has as it's first step to verify the 12v battery. This is almost always written as requiring more than 11 volts. As long as the 12v reads above 11 volts, the repair manual specifies to continue the troubleshooting procedure. If less than 11 volts, it says to charge or replace the battery.

I'm not saying that's right or wrong. I personally think 11v is marginal, and would get that higher before investing time troubleshooting, but Toyota is the boss.

 

If I have Autozone recharge the battery should I expect the battery would hold a higher charge when starting the car?

 

The modules registering 7.72v and 7.5v should not be an issue with the no start. It's plenty of powder to start the car. The voltage reading doesn't tell you the energy left in the modules so it's best to recondition them when you get the equipment to do so. I would think they would perform much better and will be much more reliable with a proper recondition (charge and discharge cycles).

At this point, you should check all your connections are good and charge up the 12v. That way you can eliminate the low charge of the 12v to be the culprit of the no start.

You can also jump start the car, it's no different than any other car, just make sure you don't reverse the polarity.

 

Well, looks like you really got me there. I did in fact forget to push down the safety switch. I got the battery back from Autozone (which they told me the battery was bad) and installed it. pushed the lever down on the safety switch and the car started right up. I am back to square one again but at least I know the hybrid battery is working and now I can charge all the modules with this imaX B6 charger. I'm going to buy a new 12V battery just to avoid problems.
To give you a background on the problems originally, the HV battery was draining fast when I would drive it. I just took it out for a drive and same thing again. Also when I'm stopped with my foot on the brake the HV battery is draining power. If I go up hills it's draining power. I feel I should charge all the modules and then see what happens. Your thoughts?

 

It was the safety switch on the HV battery. Damn!!! I swear I thought i did that. I'm going to double check every procedure from now on.

 

Well I guess out of all this troubleshooting, you were able to at least verify your 12v is bad. But next time when you ask a question, maybe it would be a good idea to read the answer and actually do the step.

When you skip a step in the troubleshooting, it can often lead to unnecessary replacement of parts that aren't causing an issue, and possibly breaking something that isn't really broken.

 

Based at what you’ve said, I go ahead and replace the 12 V battery, but I agree with you that you have more than one issue going on. Your combination meter (CM) is showing signs that it on the way to complete failure, and an unreliable power supply is exacerbating those issues. When you want to R & R that, see Matt @Texas Hybrid Batteries, he does a reasonably priced refurb service (on exchange basis). He will even set the odometer at the correct mileage on the replacement CM.

 

Thank guys for your help, i do the job by myself, i take out the combination meter. This is the picture whit my part number. What is next? View attachment 181835 View attachment 181837 View attachment 181839 View attachment 181840

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@Chba, you need to find a post in the Gen 3 forums or start your own thread in a Gen 3 forum. There are enough differences that discussing it in the Gen 2 forum could cause confusion for people that come along later who are researching the problem.

 

Just want to update my progress. I replaced the 12V battery and the dash was the same. @dolj Thank you for your comment. I believe you are absolutely correct it is the combination meter to fix the dash light issues. The safety switch pushed down fixed starting the car so that's good.