2001, Engine Vibration (missing badly), Flashing CEL

I think the threads say to, but I never have. It just pops and spews a little fuel when you pull it off - I have a rag and use the little bit of spill to clean around there.

 

when you pull out the injectors check the intake side for a film of light brown scale. mine was covering the holes. I scraped the scale off with a small screw driver. (jeweler screw driver) when putting them back in check the o-rings for cracks. put a little grease on the o-ring before sliding it in the fuel rail. make sure the injector is slid all the way in the rail first, then carefully insert the intake side starting with cylinder 4 (closer to trans). obviously clean any dirt out of the holes.

 

That "real simple" is hilarious ronlewis

 

Hmm, not sure what you mean, but it really can be done in 30 minutes with a screwdriver and ratchet by anyone.

 

The fuel line is behind the back of the engine just above the exhaust. remove at your own risk. If you take off the relay box just above the valve cover you will have enough room to disconnect the fuel line. Push in the two grey tabs and pull the fuel line off the metal fuel line coming from the fire wall and fuel tank/pump. I then put a 5/16" fuel filter into the fuel line with the two grey releases. For fun make sure the arrow (flow) is pointing toward the engine (the fuel line with the grey releases) I used a FF686DL fuel filter. (Pic 1) Put on a short 5/16" fuel line, clamp both ends. put the compression tester on the other end of this short hose. Put a longer 5/16" fuel line on the other side. This side connects to the fire wall metal fuel line. see pictures... It is easier with the wiper assembly removed (Pic 3). You can see my fuel pressure was about 48psi. The fuel pump does not turn on until the engine begins to turn by the HV starter MG1. I have other pictures of the fuel injector removal. want to see?

 

I got injector seals from Auto Zone. GP Sorensen part # 800-9284. There is an extra seal in this kit you wont need.


Air cleaner removed.

Put a sock in the air breather hole so nothing falls in.

now is a good time to use compressed air and remove any loose debris from around the injectors so it doesn't fall into the intake when you remove the injectors.

disconnect injector wires.

loosen two 12 mm hex head bolts (previous picture)



lift fuel rail and remove injectors from rail.



check old o-rings and intake side seals. I replaced mine they were all cracked.

Lightly grease the fuel rail o-ring. Make sure the injector is lightly greased on other end also. There are notches on the fuel rail that make it easier to re-install the injector if you line them up.


These replacement intake seals are easier to put in the intake (head) first then line up the injector for cylinder 4, 3, 2 and then 1. Move each injector up and down when you think you have them in place, while putting slight downward pressure on the fuel rail. if they are in correctly they will move up and down and not fall out. the first time I did this injector 1 and 2 leaked like crazy. Re-install the fuel rail bolts when you are sure the injectors will slide up and down a little.

remove sock!!! and re-install air breather, vacuum hose, and map sensor connector.

 

wow, all that work to post how to check fuel pressure and swap injectors and none of it showed up. oops, I had to click page three. shazam!, there it is.

 

I got injector seals from Auto Zone. GP Sorensen part # 800-9284. There is an extra seal in this kit you wont need.

 

Oh, by the way.....

I pre-filled my inline fuel filter with Supertech fuel injector cleaner ($0.97 at walmart) and let my car clean my injectors for me. Of course, this wont work if your fuel pump isn't working. When you do this be prepared for you engine to sound like it is ready to fall apart while the fuel line fills with fuel.

There is also a fuel line connection just under the passenger side (back right door). It has a red retainer clip. Remove the red clip and the compression tester (and fuel filter) could be inserted here. The plastic line (with red retainer) comes from the gas tank. the metal line goes to the engine.

 

Great news! I'm not usually right - my track record of screwing cars up proves that - so it's nice to have been this time. Maybe I'll have better luck with my own cars!

 

Replace coil packs. Mine started to go at 220k miles and since I replaced them I have no more misfires and no more P0420 cat errors.

 

I'm congratulating myself because my advice didn't make it worse, lol! This forum hasn't had the opportunity to witness my "expertise" at it's best yet; just that one incident of me screwing up the threads on my half-axle because I didn't understand what it meant to "unstake" the nut. On the other hand, my exploits on the Ford Diesel forums are legendary. Blew up the engine in one truck by leaving the cap off the degas (coolant) bottle before driving several hundred miles. And they still laugh about the time I replaced my power steering pump but left the black plug on the new intake tube (it was dark under the truck) and installed the line over the top of it. Even the dealer couldn't figure that one out when I took it in - told me it must be an out-of-box failure on the pump. Took it home and pulled the pump off to find that plug. Worked fine without it, lol. The dealer hadn't charged me anything, but I felt guilty and went back up there and gave them $100 for wasting their time. I may be BoneHead, but I have integrity, lol.

There's so many more examples. I suppose I should be ashamed and not tell anyone, but I learn from my mistakes and try not to make them twice.

 

Make sure you don't have the rusted fill tube problem. A rusted fill tube lets water is the gas when it rains through a rust hole near the inside of the back right fender. The car will run fine if you put dry gas in and then sometimes run bad again....

 

Sorry Dave I was reading this on a mobile device and didn't get all of it. Good to know though, I'll plan to replace the fuel injectors at the next sign of rough engine running......