Please confirm

Sounds like your "guy" is dealing in rebuilt batteries......where ONLY the currently failing cells are replaced........and all of the other old ones are left in place.
Then another one of the old ones fails.
And then another.
And then another.

If that is the kind of rebuilt batteries you are getting, the results you are seeing is pretty much normal.
Sorry.

 

I am sure other members with deep understanding of the hybrid batteries will explain the reason but I had exactly the same results between two readings with my techstream when one cell in one of my modules went bad. I had a local rebuilder replace the module, clean the connections and discharge/recharge each of the 28 modules 3 to 4 times until their capacity was above 4700. So far so good, 7000 miles and 5 months.

I would really want to know how many miles others have been able to put since their rebuild.

 

Mr Bones.....I've never seen a P30XX code be a liar when it comes to the HV battery.

When your HV battery was brand new, you could think of it as 28 energizer bunny "D cell" batteries lined up end to end in a flashlight. All nice and new and each one of those batteries very close to the others in capacity.

Now, here it is years later after thousands of discharges and charges. Those 28 batteries are now like 7 "D", 7 "C", 7 "AA", 5 "AAA" and 2 watch batteries all lined up in a flashlight. Some still have considerable capacity, some have very little, but they all still register a good voltage when checked. What happens when you turn on the flashlight? Those little watch batteries just drain right down and throw a code. Well, those are the batteries that the "repair" guy on craigslist replaces. And even then, he probably only replaces the one he sees that has a bad voltage. What about the other watch battery? That one bites you in the A** a month later. And then one of the AAA batteries gets you, and so on and so on...

That's why it's extremely important for a rebuilt battery to actually have all the modules thoroughly capacity tested and load tested. That way a complete battery can be assembled with all "D" or all "C" batteries. The AA and AAA and watch batteries get tossed in the trash for recycling.

 

Welcome to Whack-A-Mole!



You don't have ongoing problems with the work being done because the work being done will produce exactly the results you are seeing.

You are LUCKY that the guy even came back! Most just change phone numbers with a burner phone. Now who you gonna call? Think of it this way... Most to all of the packs that this guy replaces (1 day lets say) are going to have this problem in 1-6 months. So everytime he replaces a pack, either it has to be done so it outlasts the warranty ($$$$) or he comes back and "fixes" it again. There comes a point when you are no longer fixing new people's cars, you are just doing warranted work. I would highly doubt if he is insured for this, meaning every minute he spends fixing your pack, is a dollar he is losing. In your other thread you said it cost you $950 or something for the pack. So every time he is working on your pack for free, it is costing him $950 from another sucker.

When the tipping point comes, he will vanish into thin air. Most likely pop back up in another city or with another phone number or as an "independent mechanic" working for another brand new shop. "Yeah the other guy I worked for was shady..."

Your options are (1) Buy a new battery pack or (2) junk the car.

 

Well that's good. But it doesn't matter how hard he tries. We have reached and passed the point in time where rebuilt batteries from little mechanics were a reliable option. There are no longer enough good sources of batteries with low miles and new enough to use. This wasn't true in 2010. It's true now. To even start doing an OK job with a rebuild today you will need hundreds of modules, preferably tens of thousands to match into a pack of 28 similar ones. You will need lots of equipment and time.

There are those on this forum that do nothing but rebuilds and they take meticulous readings of their batteries coming in and have basements full of spare batteries waiting to assemble into a pack. Always charging and balancing. That's your best bet for a rebuild. Even large companies with millions of dollars of equipment like Dorman can't make a good rebuilt battery today. It just isn't physically possible anymore.

It's time you get a new battery before you wreck this childhood friendship. The battery won't get better. The rebuild quality won't improve. Cut your losses and buy a new pack.

 

Great analogy!!! Don't be surprised if I use it. That should really help newbies understand their situation.

A new battery is the best option for those folks who count on their car to put bread on the table and/or need the best reliability.

 

OR.....it could be that he is following some BAD advice from others who are not necessarily well versed in what they are preaching.
Have you asked him if he is putting all new cells in his "rebuilt" batteries ?
And where those cells come from ??

 

just curious... what temperature is Torque showing for sensors 1 2 3 and HV air intake? i mean, when the fan kicks on?

 

And right THERE is the key to this whole discussion.
The "good" ones he finds are still OLD.
And there actually is no good way to determine how "good" they are.

There are places that will rebuild your "core" with all new cells and for about the same price or a little more.
And the odds of having repeated hassles with "warranty" claims are WAY lower.
Had you known that in the beginning, would you have paid a bit more......or spent more time searching out different providers ??