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Random Overheating

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by casi000, Oct 1, 2019.

  1. casi000

    casi000 New Member

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    2012 Gen3 Prius.. 190k on the clock. Past couple of weeks I've had random temp light pop up. 15-30 seconds and then it's gone. Always under acceleration but not necessarily heavy or consistent. Ex 2 hr interstate roundtrip.. got the light one time. It's eluded my attempts to catch it and check the temp with Torque thus far.

    This last time.. 1.5 hr into a 2 hr interstate trip and it popped up again, this time set a CEL, I think just due to the number of cycles. P0117 - ECT low input (high temp). Checked and I lost a little coolant out of the reservoir (spewed). Oil looks clean though. This was an oil burner, but did a full EGR replace 30K ago and that stemmed the oil burn significantly.

    Head gasket starting to go is the only thing that makes sense to me. Air in the cooling system shouldn't cause the over pressurization/spewing should it? Any other ideas or things to check?
     
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  2. tankyuong

    tankyuong Senior Member

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    Head gasket
     
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  3. Yea Right

    Yea Right Active Member

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    Air in the cooling system could cause flow issues and thus heating.
     
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  4. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    Do you mean coolant came out of the reservoir cap?

    Maybe head gasket but also could be water pump/bad reservoir cap/leaking hose. @Raytheeagle replaced his water pump early b/c of reported problems on PC.

    Great testimony of the benefits of EGR cleaning. We have very few testimonies of fixing oil burning. Did you notice how much it burned before vs. after?
     
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  5. Robert Holt

    Robert Holt Senior Member

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    I experienced a head gasket failure on two previous vehicles that manifested by overheating that gradually became worse and worse. I finally read that head gaskets can fail several different ways—one such way is a breach between the combustion chamber and the cooling system channel , which allows hot combustion gases to seep into the cooling system. That overheats the coolant and as the breach gradually gets worse, the leakage of high pressure combustion gasses also starts to over-pressurize the coolant, result in what we used to call “boil-over” and loss of coolant. The symptoms you describe are congruent with this failure mode, so I would agree with probable head gasket failure.
     
  6. casi000

    casi000 New Member

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    The fact that it only seems to occur under extended load makes me think it's not pump/system related. I'm not losing any coolant unless an overheat episode occurs.

    Yeah EGR definitely helped though I'm sure damage had already occurred as oil ran low several times prior to that. Through the multiple oil changes, none of the dealerships thought to mention to me that it was low at each change. I started handling everything myself after I got the low oil light. Pre EGR oil consumption was 1 qt /500 miles.. post - 1qt / 1500-2000. I know it's not fixed but I was just hoping to buy another 100k out of the engine.
     
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  7. casi000

    casi000 New Member

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    It's the only thing that makes sense to me. I think it's certainly at the early stages now. I had to make it home yesterday on a 3 hr ride.. stayed out of the power band as much as I could and monitored temps with Torque. No issues at all even at extended highway speeds. Temp never got above 200. Looking at older threads the consensus on this forum seems to be HG replacement is not worth it, and just to swap the engine. Not sure why exactly. I may just push this engine until it blows, but the Prius is my long-haul vehicle and that doesn't inspire confidence on 1000+ mile trips.
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Unless they checked the dipstick, they likely never noticed the low oil. They remove the drain bolt, the oil drains into a typical waste oil receptacle:

    upload_2019-10-3_7-40-45.png

    They're never going to notice.

    If it was just head gasket issue, might be worth it, especially if you can DIY. But if you've had low oil several times, and are still having signifiicant oil consumption rate, then replacement engine makes more sense.
     
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  9. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    Get a cooling system pressure test. With the system under high pressure you can put a camera in the cylinders to look for coolant. There's also a chance it's a bad reservoir cap.

    That level of oil consumption does not help with EGR problems. It leads to soot generation which accelerates the EGR clogging.
     
    #9 mjoo, Oct 3, 2019
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2019
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  10. casi000

    casi000 New Member

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    If it's the reservoir cap it shouldn't lead to overheating provided there is sufficient coolant though? I'm not losing any coolant aside from the overheating episodes where a small amount blows out. Not following you on the EGR.. rings were likely already too far gone to fix by the time I discovered the oil consumption issue. The EGR re-do resolved the misfires and side effects that come with clogged pipes. No doubt it will clog again, but the other alternative was engine rebuild or replace. So the cost of parts bought me some time and miles.
     
  11. casi000

    casi000 New Member

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    Fair enough. Any experience with swaps? I've done HG on a few cars before, never an engine swap. If a Prius swap is fairly straightforward, I'd be willing to give it a go. I am concerned that the ring issue was never truly fixed on this engine. I discovered my oil issue 'early-on' at around 120k.
     
  12. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    Any misfire codes (P030X) or rough running that could suggest coolant going into the cylinders?

    A bad cap that does not allow the coolant system to pressurize can cause hot spots in the engine and encourage a failing head/headgasket.

    Two things - agreeing with Mendel that if this is a headgasket failure it's probably less expensive long term to install used engine if oil consumption cannot improve. Also oil burning accelerates EGR system buildup so what engine work you're about to perform should probably include another EGR system cleanse.
     
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  13. casi000

    casi000 New Member

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    This could be due to a failing water pump also, right? That should normally set some kind of code? Looking around at past posts, it seems a cooling system test may not tell me much. Also having trouble finding an adapter that works with the reservoir (aka cap-less radiator). Just making sure I explore all options before throwing in the towel on the engine.
     
  14. casi000

    casi000 New Member

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    Mentioning that because I was poking around today and heard a pinging/ringing sound from passenger side of engine after cut off for a bit. Couldn't isolate it to water pump but it sounds possible. It seems like dying pumps tend to set codes in these cars and I am not getting anything pump related. However it makes me wonder since I am getting no discernable coolant leakage aside from pressure release. Also, noticed it seems to happen most often in the first 15 min of a trip, and once it occurs it does not happen again. Not sure what to make of that, or if a warming engine has anything to do with it.
     
  15. Robert Holt

    Robert Holt Senior Member

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    Was re-reading this thread and I suddenly thought of one car that would have unpredictable overheating events due to a sticking thermostat in the block. That was unusual, but did odd things in that if it stuck in the closed position on startup, the engine would start to overheat until it would finally unstick and then go to the open position and the engine would then cool down to normal operating temps. But it could also stick in the open position, which would then if driving at low-load speeds in cool weather result in the engine running too cold and I would not get heat from the heater. Look, the way to diagnose if this is part of the problem is to plug a Scangauge II in the OBD II port , set one of the 4 fields to monitor ICE coolant temp, and then watch the engine temps during low and high load driving situations. The thermostat should be closed initially and then gradually open between 190-198 degrees Fahrenheit and then the reverse sequence if load decreases and the ICE temp drops below 190. Good luck!
     
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  16. casi000

    casi000 New Member

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    That's actually a great point. I assumed faulty tstat would just fail open but hadn't thought about a sticky one. In fact, all of the overheat episodes except for one have been 5-10 min in. That one was 1.5 hr in on a highway trip.. I guess it could have been low coolant related but it was not excessively low. But it threw me off.

    I was able to replicate it today in maint mode parked in an attempt to bleed air out. Car warmed up. I kept it at 2500rpm, so no excessive load. Temps slowly climbed as expected but did not drop off at ~190. Got to 220, system pressurized and blew coolant. Then right back down to normal range. Went from 190-220 and back to 190 in under a minute. I will investigate the tstat angle further tomorrow.
     
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  17. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    You could remove the thermostat and see if it still overheats in maintenance mode. That would rule it out.

    Pixel XL ?
     
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  18. casi000

    casi000 New Member

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    IIRC from doing the EGR, it's at lower front of engine? I guess it would mean a full drain, think I'll just go ahead and replace the tstat and see what happens.
     
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  19. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    I heard aftermarket thermostats are hit or miss. Go OEM

    Pixel XL ?
     
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  20. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I replaced the thermostat when I replaced the water pump ;).

    And the thermostat is located opposite the water pump :).

    Good luck and keep us posted (y).