Help! Huge car stereo install questions!!!

I love reading threads like this. There is always someone that suggests or informs in one post or another and that info is Golden! OP...would love to see how your system is turning out in the prius I hope you purchased! As for what I learned...F8L...your install pic is worth a million bucks to me! I purchased the Dynaudio Esotar 2' about 7 months ago and they have just been sitting in a box because I just could not figure out how to have the front stage built. Problem is the mid range woofer and tweeter are huge! Now I finally figured it out! One speaker can be fitted into a custom enclosure in the little triangle window and I can build a custom pod for the other and place it the way you did using the existing spot for the factory tweeter. Brilliant!!!

 

Maybe i was a little harsh before...
OP - You don't need, or want, as many drivers as you plan to use. Here is why...
The HAT drivers you have selected are great drivers. However, more isn't better, especially when it comes to imaging.
When you add too many drivers, you are going to run into issues with reflections and Time Alignment. Save the money you are investing in all those drivers and get a solid DSP - 6to8, H800, 360, or any other of the major ones out there.
The best possible set up you could do would be to mount your 3s in the stock location (they fit without modification). Install 8s in kicks, and then mount your tweeters as close to your 3s as possible, on axis. Your tweets will want to be crossed as low as possible so that your sound stage is as focused as can be. There is literally no advantage to having more drivers than these. You WILL want a sub in the car. Even with 8s, you are more than likely going to miss the low end. The HAT 8s can play low, but nowhere near as low as a standard sub can. If you are concered about taking up a lot of space, look into the Stereo Integrity BMK IV. It is an incredibly designed low profile shallow mount sub that hits hard, accurate and stays true to music.

In regards to the PDX and JL amps being inefficient and killing your last car, I am going to say that you more than likely either already had electrical issues, or you had issues with your install. I have seen and heard a smart car with 3 PDX amps installed and pushing over 1800W RMS. The Smart has something like a 30 amp alternator....

Also keep in mind, Class D amps are much more efficient than A/B, so I would stick with class D. I highly recommend the JL HD or new PDX amps, but it seems that you already have ur mind made up. They truly are very efficient.

Hopefully this helps you....

 

I have an alpine PDX-V9. According to the birth sheet of my manual, it is pushing out 137 watts or so into 4 channels. Also something like 560 watts into the mono subwoofer output. This is 1108 watts RMS total output. Never had a problem with anything, no capacitors or special pheripherals to manage the current.... and mileage is the same as before. System plays loud and clear. Even when I am stuck in gridlocked traffic pumping the tunes for 10 minutes, the traction battery doesn't get drained faster than it would without the system installed, as far as I can detect.

Other than regretting not doing more soundproofing of the doors and floor panels, I have no regrets with anything on my system.

Good luck with your multi-thousand watt system!

 

Hey guys, I got a noob question. I wanna try use my prius 06' as a generator for my BBQ's. If I install a 600W RMS amp in the trunk powering 2 x full range speakers, If I leave the car on, will the car charge the small battery? I replaced OEM with a stronger 50AH one.

 

yes