C1310 C1259 please help me

what are you reading the codes with?

what symptoms are you having?

did you torque all the nuts properly?

 

i don't think the zurich is up to snuff. get tech stream if you're gonna diy, or at least torque, dr prius or hybrid assistant

 

The two codes in your title both come from the skid ECU, and they just mean "hey, go read the codes from your HV ECU".

Those are the codes you need to read. If the reader you're using can't get them, there needs to be a plan B.

 

Well, Google search of your codes point to you posting the near identical issue two years ago here: 07 Prius Codes C1259 C1310 P3018 | PriusChat

Two years is a pretty good amount of time before needing to swap more modules... So just keep doing what you've been doing and things will go well, or buy all new modules and it will go good for 6-12 years.

 

Notice the "near identical" post mentioned not only the two skid ECU codes that mean "look at the HV ECU code" (C1259 C1310), but also provided the HV ECU code (P3018), which identified what the problem happened to be in that case (a battery module).

That shows the way to finding out what the problem happens to be in this case.

 

24-inch-pounds if I remember correctly is the right torque... For me, that works out to the lowest clutch setting on my cheap screwdriver gun.

Also while you have the pack out start a spreadsheet of voltage numbers for each module, as well as how far the voltage drops on each module after 2 minutes powering the headlight bulb if it's not LED / aka: 12v-55w bulb so you can start getting a sense of which modules are strongest and which are weakest. Also are you going to do reconditioning / cycling the battery to improve capacity? And if so are you going to do the whole pack at once with a Prolong charger system or individual modules with hobby-type RC car charging system?

 

Sweet, sounds like you're doing everything right... Try Dr. Prius app and Hybrid assisstant app, both of them have way more Prius-specific features than Torque has...

It's too bad refurbished hybrid batteries create confusion when people buy a used Prius. In my book a battery that's never failed is going to be less problematic than one that's failed and been "refurbished" by someone who may or may not have the rebuilding skills.

Do you have plans to do reconditioning? Also check voltage sensing wires for corrosion. I've seen that corrosion travel all the way up the wire into the ECU and short out the plug.

 

Torque values in the attached. Do note some are foot pounds, others inch pounds. To convert from inch pounds to foot pounds (for example), you would divide the value by 12: 48 inch pounds would become 4 foot pounds.

Hmm, Priuschat is problematic right now, will not allow me to upload, and I know it is not too big. Stay tuned.

 

It would not be crazy to slow down a bit and wait for the reader to arrive and read whatever codes the HV ECU and/or battery ECUs are reporting, which might not even be related to battery modules this time around, just because they happened to be in an earlier case with an earlier car.

 

Yea.... But we got a live one here! This is a person who is clearly competent in hybrid car repair from their previous Prius and impression is they're enjoying the work, so why not give 'em as much info as they're interested in? I'm sure original poster has plenty of experience in car repair distractions vs. just getting it fixed with as little effort as possible. Sometimes the former is a nice way to enjoy the weekend, sometime the latter is, it depends?

 

Now that post #13 shows that P0A80 and P3016 were present, it makes perfect sense for the OP to be working on the battery.

Prior to that, when all we knew was that the skid ECU was aware of hybrid-ECU codes but none of those had been read yet, and many hybrid-ECU codes don't even pertain to the battery, encouragement to spend more time on the battery could have been encouragement to do work that had nothing whatever to do with the problem. That often leads to the weekend seeming less enjoyable in retrospect if the trouble is found in a completely different area.

 

No, not really true... A good mechanic is a thorough mechanic with refined instincts on where to focus even when data says otherwise. Had she taken your advice she'd have less work done on battery pack by now.

 

The torques are quite easy to find here so that’s no excuse. Why are you so insistent that when a battery is “refurbished” it should last more than a day? Unless you refurbished it yourself you have no idea what was done. Some people do a good job, a lot of people don’t.

 

They should affix critical torque values on a sticker on the battery case, my 2 cents. Toyota, and to a large extent all the rest, are so miserly with the tech info.