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DIY Coolant Change

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by 72fordgts, Jan 11, 2016.

  1. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    If you already bought it... have fun!
    I don’t think they’re helpful for a Prius. I know some other cars have weird cooking systems and it’s hard to get the bubbles out, but the Prius bleeds pretty easily... so easily that they got rid of the bleeder valve in 2012.
     
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  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Liam has a Gen 2, 2009 though. Maybe those weren't as easy.

    I don't know much ... I think I've only tried to fill one Gen 2, and that one was a PITA because it had been rebuilt with an aftermarket radiator that was missing the bleed nipple on the driver's top corner.
     
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  3. CR94

    CR94 Senior Member

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  4. Liam howard

    Liam howard Junior Member

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    Haven’t gotten around to doing the change yet. Vacation and the heat have gotten in the way. I have been thinking though that after I change the tranny fluid, both coolants, oil then the A/C refresher kit of maybe resealing the valve cover gasket. When I changed out my plugs two weeks ago the very first plug had oil around the threads. The good news is that the tips of the plugs had absolutely no blackness or oil residue on them. Would you guys say that oil just being on the threads is a sign of a leaking valve cover gasket? Also how difficult do you think it would be to actually clean the valves? Piston rings? My 2009 burns about 1/4 -1/2 quart every 3000-3500 and I would like to personally solve the problem.
     
  5. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    Eight to 16 ounces of oil in 3500 mile is actually pretty good for any vehicle. You don’t list how many miles are on your car, but if it were mine, I’d run it at oil change time for 15-20 minutes in maintenance mode with a bottle of seafoam or marvel mystery oil added then change it and use the standard oil. I wouldn’t worry with high mileage or anything like that.
     
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  6. Liam howard

    Liam howard Junior Member

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    My 2009 touring has 143000 miles on it. I guess it’s not that bad however, it drives my OCD insane. Is their any evidence that shows that the seafoam works to prevent oil burning?
     
  7. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    On the Gen 3, like I have, the oil burning is a combination of sticking/carbon fouled oil control rings and carbon fouled oil drain holes on the inner side of the piston. Anything that can be done to mitigate that is only going to help in my estimation. I could be completely off base though since you have a Gen 2. That oil ring issue might not even exist on yours.
     
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  8. Liam howard

    Liam howard Junior Member

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    -UPDATE-​

    Hello all,

    Finally got around to do all the maintenance last Friday and the results are in. I changed my 0w-20 oil to a heavier 0w-40 weight to see if it helps with the oil consumption. I also changed out the transaxle fluid with WS ATF. Furthermore I replaced the inverter coolant and the ICe coolant with the mity-vac. Worked like a charm. There was one minor problem however. It took three compressor recharging cycles to get to the needed 25 psi vacuum inside the coolant loops. My compressor is a 100psi-.6 SCFM 3-gallon pancake compressor. I just watched the gauge and when the pressure seemed to stop going down I closed the valves, recharged the compressor then opened the valves on the mity-vac. I did this about three times. It took about 5 hours to complete all the maintenance. I monitored all temp sensors via the torque app and all seem to be operating within normal temp ranges. All in all it was a success. Peace of mind is a beautiful thing!!!
     
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