Oil filter leak - please help

Should be cheaper, Grit. (though I pay a lot more than 4 or 5 bucks) But the dang housing is a major PITB to get started turning to remove to swap the filter. I once put a wrench onit and lowered the car. Not kidding. Did it slowly and thought I was gonna rip off the whole filter housing. And once, It spun off with a good push. I have tried it hot, cold, warm. On cold days and hot. This time going to try just a new cap (that holds filter. Old one is about rounded anyway) After that not working. Gonna go with Montgomery's thought.

About at my wits end and hate the thought of paying some one because I failed. (But is an option! LoL)

 

Oh, and just to be sure. It was never once over tightened. I was in fact worried the recomended was on the light side. But it stayed put.

 

Advice is given. Its up to the individual to act on it or not. I only saw this thread. I don't know the long term history of what eveyone has gone through when they post something. Thats the problem with blogging on the internet. Things get interpreted as angry, synical or pushy when it is not meant to be. I was only trying to help. Please take it that way.

 

Oh Man! I took it as help and do thank you. I'll go back and reread what I posted. But didn't mean to come off as ungreatful and infact was just sitting here contimplating the rip it all out.

But did not mean to come off as anything other then conversant. My bad if I did Buddy.

 

Do you pull off the anti spin pin before placing oil filter wrench on the filter cap? At meet ups, I'll drive 2 hours on the highway and change oil w/filter after 30 mins of cool down. When hand tighten or torqued, it takes about a couple of tries to get the filter turning once I knew about the pin

 

OIC Montgomery. No, I was stating my frustration at the difficulty I was having. Certainly not the advice you kindly took the time to offer. My bad for not being more clear and my apologies.

 

We cool!

 

No. Thought it long broken as it just hangs there and not touching anything. The one time it spun off easily, I had forgot to warm the engine. I basically let engine run in driveway until it turned off. Just warmish. But next few times. No joy.

Gonna see if well lubed, new cap helps tomorrow. Rained today just as I got to it.

 

If you oil the O-ring and don't overtighten the cartridge cap, it won't be difficult to remove the next time.

 

I had the same problem with a Ford one a while ago, turned out the dealer service monkeys had cross threaded the cap the last time they changed the oil. I sorted it by buying a new cap.

 

Have absolutely done just as you said CR. It has to be me, 4 sho. But ring well lubed and tightend a lot less than I have ever put an oil filter on.

Trust me, I am no pro wrench but what could I possible be missing. Don't over tighten, lube, done? And the thing is gorilla tight when I go back.

Man KiT! I would be delighted if that were my problem! (fingers crossed and new cap in hand...)

Edit; A buddy of mine is a professional mechanic and gonna give me a hand. He suggested the new cap as well. Also gonna use a thread lube for the threads.

Think this is the 7th or 8th oil change on this particular gen 3, 2010 prius. And it's gone well once.

ML,Mendel Leisk | PriusChat laughed at me but once, forgetting that the cap was not metal. I heated it. (Yup, with a torch, LoL) Then promptly placed the socket squarely on. Thus seizing them together.

It stayed on for 30,000 miles! (Right hand raised and I swear to ya!)

It only came off when I beat it with a 6 lbs hand sledge.

Of all the really dumb things I have done. That's one of 'em. snicker.

 

There should be:

1. Initial resistance as you break loose the oil filter housing. This is due to the flange at the base of of the housing pressing against the machined face on the engine. And a bit of friction on all the screw threads too I'd surmise.

2. Continuing resistance, albeit less, as you back it out, till the O-ring's clear. You can hear/feel the O-ring kinda judder too. With me it's just 6 months and typically around 4K kms at most. If you're doing this yearly or 10K miles (and I gather with yours it miles?), that O-ring is going to be a lot more dried out I'd think.

Oh and that little clip: it does nothing. At least it doesn't get in the way.

 

Yeppers, ML. Miles and have to every other month or so. At the 10K mark.

It's about a half turn until normally resistant. Perhaps a quarter. Then spins off as any normally threaded object would.
(perhaps a third, snork....)

Think, as I complain about this every other month. Gonna video it from start to finish and use/show torque wrench & and ring lubrication. Has to be something causing this annoyance.
Always met (wisley) "Don't over tighten, lube ring" Which is absolutely correct and absolutely not working. LoL.

But kinda fun to have a shared event with such a dumb problem.

Reminds me of a thing. Or a fear. As a hobby and budding business, I make ultra light vehicles. Including taking perfectly good bicycles and strapping engines on them. I was helping a guy online get his cheap Chinise kit on his bike. It would not start. Went threw every possible cause for weeks over the interweb. Nothing worked. Finally asked the guy for a picture.

He had the carburetor upside down. My bad for not checking if he was in accordance with the laws of physics and gravity....

But this guy was smart. Perhaps not exposed to turning wrenches but none of us are born with that skill.

All that to say I am worried if I show that vid, my carb is gonna be upside down..... (but would be funny. ...and that's what really matters
(?)

 

Hey I put the wipers back on then realized the cowl was still on the floor. I forget exactly how that went (gratefully), but it was something like that.

 

LoL. The wipers thing, oh yeah. Think they make em deliberately counterintuitive.

"Pop, slide, click, reverse, put your left foot in, pop in place.... and done!"

 

Perhaps it would help to be sure that that flange and the threads, as well as the O-ring, are oily? The ends of the filter should be well-oiled, too, mainly for other reasons.

 

If your gonna lube it, I'd suggest silicone spray.

 

Thanks, Kit. Was gonna ask what folks thought. Not exactly plastic but the cap is some sort of polymer. Obviously resistant to petroleum products but was wondering.

 

The recycling label molded into it says it is glass-filled polyamide ("nylon"), the same stuff used to make power tool housings.

 

I would not use silicone on this. Motor oil would be my preferred lubricant for these threads.