Why can't I get 8.8kwh miles?

Yap, that's a good estimate if you always charge from EV range 0mile to full.

I was going to tell you that Kill-a-watt meter only works with L1 120v EVSE, but you seems to figured out that. There are more expensive and robust kW meter that can handle 240V, but it will cost more. Doesn't your L2 have an option of monitoring kWh used for each charge session? Many does.

The difference in EV range is just a coincidence. Probably it was much colder when you were using L1 and now with L2 you are using in much warmer days. I was getting less than 25 mils of EV on GOM until end of April, but now I get 33 miles, all with L1 EVSE use.

 

Yeah, many of more expensive ones like this one ChargePoint Home EV Charger have various features like phone app to monitor and remote control the charging session. If you got just a simple cord, then you will have to install kWh meter DIY.

 

$400 is a lot just to see how much charging your car costs.

 

just get the kill a watt. when you find out how many kwh you use at 120v, 240v will be very close.

 

SK is right. Just coincidence. Probable cause is either temperature or driving habits/conditions. The battery doesn't care if it's charged at L1 or L2. At least no one else's battery cares, so your's is not likely to be different.

 

I find that if I coil the charge cable just so, the alignment of the lunarfaciant marsal vanes with the coptic reluctors produces a recipient trophoidal wave that puts ever so slightly more charge in at 240V.

 

I'd like to try that. Do you have a picture or diagram?

 

That would be the minor benefit of going with a high-tech level II EVSE.

The main reasons folks go 240v is A) much quicker charging (more important on smaller packs if one needs extra charges to make it through a day on pure EV) and B) being able to pre-condition (heat or cool) the car before getting in WITHOUT draining the pack; level 1 can't keep up and will draw on the pack reducing range.

 

True that it's not exact. But better than nothing. Also, the ones what remember readings after a power outage cost a little more. Mine was a cheap model, so I recorded the kWh after every charge.

If you go with L2 on a 240 circuit, they make some inexpensive meters. Mine was $19 iirc.

 

You can get those basic L2 features for a lot less than $400, though. Mine was $189. It's just like L1 but more than twice as fast. Just no extra bells & whistles.

 

You can do all that for less than $50 with an adapter cable for the existing charge cable to run the existing one off 240VAC.

 

Exactly. That's why I separated the sentences to hopefully separate the ideas (guess I didn't).

Some Clarity owners discovered the OEM 120v charger is actually the same one shipped to other areas of the world as a 240v; just different plugs so all one needs is a cheap ($13) plug adapter for USA owners to turn it into a level II. I haven't tried it since I already have a level II but others report satisfactory results.

 

This usually does it. Quick math shows that the coil diameter should be no more than the theta angle of the unilateral phase detractors, and no less than the squared sine of the interelectrode diffusion integrator flux angle.

 

I've noticed that, too. I won't deny that it's working, but I don't quite trust it yet. Besides, I like leaving my L2 connected at home and having the OEM one for work and other places in the car all the time.

That's cool. Would it work the same in the southern hemisphere or does the Coriolis effect make it reverse?

 

That's a good question. Being stuck in the northern hemisphere, we'll have to rely on one of our southern hemisphere members to confirm.