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How to: Change Transmission Fluid ATF WS

Discussion in 'Prius c Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by TheTimob, Apr 18, 2016.

  1. TheTimob

    TheTimob Member

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    So my Prius is at 30,000 miles. Time for an oil change and a Transmission oil change. I've seen many suggestions on this forum from other enthusiasts about changing the HSD oil at 30k based on their experiences and oil analysis.

    SAFETY: Make absolutely sure your car is turned completely off during this process. Even more important to double check this on smartkey equipped cars - a good practice is to power the car off, take the key out of the car and just put it somewhere far away from the car. Don't mess around with those big orange cables under the car. They aren't energized when the car is off - but still best to make sure they remain undamaged.

    I'm newly a professional car mechanic, so I'm doing this job on a lift, but I've been a DIY mechanic for many years - you can also easily do it in a driveway with jacks and jack stands. Thing is - you want the car to be as level as possible during the process - so use four jack stands. Again - SAFETY - jacks do not support cars- they only raise them - support the car with jack stands in a safe manner. You don't want to die by being crushed by a car - it's a horrible way to go.

    The supplies - you'll need 4 quarts of ATF WS from Toyota. (WS stands for world standard - Toyota uses this in many different types of transmissions) I'm also changing my oil at 30k, so that's there too.
    [​IMG]

    You need some sort of a flexible funnel or tube for filling the transmission - I used this thing which was $1 at the parts store.
    [​IMG]

    Drain Pan - obviously you'll need it to drain the transmission, but you'll also need it around when you're filling to catch the excess.
    [​IMG]

    Here's my car up in the air on the lift
    [​IMG]

    The train plug is on the forward side of the transmission, nearing the left wheel well. A 10mm hex gets the plug out. There's a washer on the plug - don't loose it! Notice how if the car is not level - you might not get all the old fluid out of the transmission.
    [​IMG]

    The fill is on the rear of the transmission, center of the car, very near where the passenger side CV axle goes into the transmission. This is also 10mm Hex
    [​IMG]

    Here's the flex funnel rigged up to go topside. I have a rubber hose inserted into it to reach all the way to the top of the engine bay. If you have the right size rubber hose - you could just use the hose alone into the fill hole.
    [​IMG]

    Here's the other end of the rubber hose, with another funnel stuffed in. This is where I'll be filling from.
    [​IMG]

    I hung it from the hood latch with some hooks to make it easier to hold
    [​IMG]

    The goal is to fill the oil until it is just at the level of the bottom of the fill hole - so I just put the drain pan underneath the fill hole, and poured all my fluid in. About half way though the 4th quart, it started spilling over, so I removed the funnel setup from the car, let it drip until it stopped, and then put the fill plug back in.

    After changing my oil, rotating my tires, setting the pressure to the proper level on the door jamb sticker, and doing the transmission flush - it's as good as a new car! changed my Air and Cabin filters at 20k - so they are still fine at this point. Make sure you get a charcoal type cabin filter - many aftermarket cabin filters are just dust filters - they don't remove odors like an OEM Toyota charcoal cabin filter does.

    Reset the maintenance data for the oil by powering on the car, during the welcome screen animation quickly pressing the trip button three times and holding it on the third press. You'll see the odometer counting down to 000000 - and it will tell you that the maintenance data is reset!

    My oil pan is still very shiny! I sprayed down the entire undercarriage with Fluid Film when I first got this car to protect it from rust. Especially concentrate on the front tie rods and all exposed bolts - they rust quickly on Toyotas. (Don't spray your brakes or your exhaust though!)
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Kenny94945

    Kenny94945 Active Member

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    Nice post...thanks.
     
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  3. DKTVAV

    DKTVAV Active Member

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    Like!

    Best post ever.
     
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  4. dubit

    dubit Senior Member

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    Bookmarking this page.
     
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  5. SwhitePC

    SwhitePC Active Member

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    Is the ATF in your drain pan what you drained out?

    It's pretty clean/clear still (if it is the drained ATF)...and 30k might be a little overkill
     
  6. dubit

    dubit Senior Member

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    I think he posted this thread because it's not on Toyota's recommended service intervals?

    The fluid does look pretty clear, but there are a couple other threads I read here where people changed it at 30k'ish and it was apparently very dark. I'm thinking I'll change it out at 50k. I'm don't drive the car hard, so I'm not too worried about it.
     
  7. mohsin

    mohsin Member

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    Let me congrat you on excellently kept car. I love this Gun Metallic color.
    Very comprehensive and well explained DIY.
    :)
     
  8. Fostel

    Fostel Member

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    What is the size of the fill plug hole or what outer size of the tube is needed to fit in?
    I've got the ATF and tools. Just tube size and washers are needed.
    Are there 2 washers needed (fill and drain)? Anyone knows the Toyota part number?

    Thanks!
     
  9. fermuscolo

    fermuscolo Member

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    My Prius C has 83000 miles and never changed the transmission fluid. Some say I have to change it and in the shops they say to me that if I didn't changed at 30000 never change it because it dislodge build ups that can cause more damage now. I don't know really what to do now. Thanks
     
  10. priusCpilot

    priusCpilot Active Member

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    I would change it ASAP! No sludge issues with this type of fluid and trans. It's going to be black black when you change it with lots of wear metals.
     
  11. ztanos

    ztanos All-around Geek!

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    Not to be diametric... but why? I haven't seen a single person complaining of their transmission failing. You say ASAP like it's a must do thing.
     
  12. priusCpilot

    priusCpilot Active Member

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    Absolutely! For one thing this trans is oil cooled with no exterior heat exchanger. The oil heats and turns black much faster then the other HSD cars.
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    At 83K miles? I'll give you a couple of reasons:

    1. First and foremost: it's cheap and easy. Not a big effort or expense, so why not?

    2. I've changed the flluid 3 times on our 2010: first time at the one year mark, around 15K kms. The drained fluid at that first change was by far the darkest. It really seems like the break-in period is the most detrimental to fluid quality, at least judging by visual appearance.

    The second change fluid was darker, but not by much.

    The third time the fluid looked almost like new, and I pretty much resolved to wait a LONG time before doing it again.

    A few cautions:

    1. Use only Toyota ATF WS fluid, from a freshly opened bottle. According to Toyota, the fluid doesn't "keep" well.

    2. Replace the fill and drain bolt washers. Have the car level when filling, and fill till it starts coming out. Torque value for regular Prius is 29 ft/lb (both). I don't have Prius c info, but hopefully that's close enuf.

    3. Remove the fill bolt first, just in case.
     
    #13 Mendel Leisk, May 27, 2019
    Last edited: May 27, 2019
  14. ztanos

    ztanos All-around Geek!

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    Those are great reasons to do it... but still no real cause for the reasons. I'm not trying to be dissensious, I promise. But it's one of those scenarios that people are doing it because other people are doing it... not because a failure has occurred in anybody else.

    Have you seen any failures reported, Mendel?

    Note: I agree it's easy. I've been too lazy to do it myself, so I guess I'm control group A and you're control group B. :D We'll see what happens.

    I've read many reports that the first change is always the nastiest and then basically pointless after that.
     
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  15. ztanos

    ztanos All-around Geek!

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    That explains why people that change it consider the first to be so dirty, but wouldn't that mean that the second and third time (even with longer intervals) would be dirtier due to less efficiency? How then would you explain them seemingly needing to be changed less?
     
  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I think first drain, even very early drain, is darkest due to to manufacture solvent residue (cutting oils), increased wear as freshly machined gears mesh, and so on.
     
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  17. Max Taiwan

    Max Taiwan Active Member

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    I just did a service myself and was going to post everything.
    20200317_141702.jpg Found your post and thought it was helpful plus a lot of others who posted this info previous to my endeavor. I went with the Toyota 0W16. I had used this oil for my previous services with good results.

    This is the 1st time I did the transmission fluid and it did eliminate my vibrations with heavy throttle. Now with the new transmission refill the vibration went away. I think my fluid might have been low like many others before have reported less drained then what was supposed to go in.
    I used a hand crank oil pump to fill the oil from under the car. Next time I am going to use a electric one!
     
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  18. Harry Le

    Harry Le New Member

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    My car is 2017 Prius C One with around 35000 miles and I did not change the Transmission oil. Why? Because base on booklet, I did not see they request to change. Each people have some reasons to explain why they do it, but the simplest thing is just follow the booklet.
    I think we should watch the video which I attached. Example like I heard a lot of people say that we should change the engine oil every 5,000 miles or 6 months which is comes first, but in the booklet, it says 10,000 miles or 12 months which is come first. Don’t just Auto repair shop or even dealer. They just need one thing: “money”.
    All everything I will do with my car: just follow the booklet. Period.
    Video:
     
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  19. Max Taiwan

    Max Taiwan Active Member

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    The stealerships are so bad. I knew a pharmacist who had to drive 40km to work and 40km home on a daily basis in Canada British Columbia.
    The stealerships told her that because her vehicle is small so she needed to change her oil every 3000km if she is commuting on the highway for 80km+ everyday.
    They also scare her by telling her that her engine died and she couldn't go to work if she didn't follow that strictly. Pool girl ended up changing oil within two months for two years. She nearly quit her post at the pharmacy because of this.
    My dealers and service tells me to do a oil change every 5000km.
    I do every 10k km.
     
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  20. dubit

    dubit Senior Member

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    So I changed the Trans fluid. Followed this thread, but instead of the difficult threading of a tube through the engine bay from top to bottom, we chose to buy an Outboard Motor fuel line that included the squeeze bulb. It made the whole ordeal much easier to say the least..

    GZYF 3/8" Marine Outboard Boat Motor Fuel Gas Hose Line Assembly W/ Primer Bulb - Walmart.com - Walmart.com

    Mileage on the C is 50,444. So yeah, a bit early I'm sure but the Trans fluid was the blackest gunk I'd ever seen come out of a Transmission. I would not have expected that color at that low mileage if it hadn't been for similar reports of others noticing the oddly dark color themselves. I did notice the typical vibration we Prius C drivers encounter right around that spot / speed of 40 or so mph when your car could go full on electric or stay gas was significantly reduced.

    Anyways, the whole ordeal took me just a tad over 30 minutes to complete. Very easy to say the least.
     
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