2012 toyota prius two at 150k milage

It will settle in at or around 50 mpg, depending on how you drive it.

As far as price, if you put your actual location in your profile, it’s easier to judge, or you can do it yourself looking at ads for other Prii (plural for Prius) and seeing how the price you paid compares to them.

Now, since it is yours, watch the coolant level for a few days. A lot of Prii in this mileage range start loosing coolant. If yours doesn’t, then that’s a plus. Find a mechanic that can do a deep clean on the EGR Cooler and intake manifold soon. While it’s apart, get the plugs changed. Change the oil, and maybe even send a sample to Blackstone Labs. They will send you a kit to send them the oil for free. You pay for them to analyze it. They can detect bearing material, unburned fuel, and even antifreeze in it. That will give you an idea of the overall health “right now” of the car.

And finally, don’t be afraid to ask questions. The only dumb one is the the one you don’t ask, generally speaking.

 

congrats and welcome, all the best!

 

I’d guess the price paid is okay IF the engine is in decent shape. I’d monitor the oil level and coolant level carefully and often. I’d also verify Toyota maintenance schedule has been followed AND, if not done yet, I’d clean the EGR circuit thoroughly.

 

Since it hasn't been mentioned, other maintenance items to consider:

1. Brake inspection. A full, pull the calipers off inspection, clean and relube of the pads and caliper pins. Toyota USA recommends tri-yearly or 30K miles. ($300~400).

2. Brake fluid replacement. Toyota USA says nothing; Toyota CDN recommends tri-yearly or 48K kms. ($125~)

3. Transaxle fluid replacement. Toyota USA and CDN both say the fluid is lifetime, but highly worthwhile to change, regardless. ($100 max) (Use Toyota ATF WS only)

I'd second the EGR and Intake Manifold cleanings, they're necessity. Consider Oil Catch Can install too.

(Watch @NutzAboutBolts videos, if you're inclined to DIY, or just to see what's involved. There's a thread pinned at top of 3rd gen maintenance forum, linking them.)

 

You will usually get lower mpg on your shorter drives to work. You're probably starting with a cold engine and won't drive long enough to get the car fully warmed up. Anything at 50 mpg or higher over a full tankful will be a good sign.

When I first joined this board, I used bwilson's chart, here, as a resource on increasing my fuel economy.

 

Yeah that should be ok. Is it Toyota Super Long Life Coolant? That would be safest. I found I had to top up both our reservoirs a few years back (they both got down to the low mark), and it's been stable since.

That's the 12 volt battery? What scanner? Some sort of electronic load tester? I've used a Solar BA5, which tests CCA, compares to spec'd, gives a verdict. If you leave the hood ajar, check the voltage with a multimeter first thing in the morning, that would be a good data point to post too.

 

Bought mine the same way, was an inch below the full mark. Poured more in and stayed that way, got lucky. If it was truly serviced every 5000 mi then wait for the next coolant Change interval.

Which scanner was used and which battery was tested at 63%?

 

Just make sure you drive at least 20 min or 5 mi minimum commute or each drive. Anything shorter you have mpgs in the 30s. A lady once posted that she had awful mpgs, turns out she lives in a town that had hill grades in all angles. I’ve driven through that town and boy it trashed my tank overall mpgs.

 

I changed the transaxle oil on my 2015 CT200h F Sport at 40k miles. Was really dark. Cost me about $43 to do myself using Toyota WS.

 

keep it, you're all good now for another 150k

 

Did he pull the information out of the air? How was this confirm on mechanics end? Some will jus say that so you lll keep the car knowing that if anything happens next, you’ll return right to him and then will keep trying to fix something that may not even be the permanent fix. Sounds jaded but this stuff happens

 

Did he do a compression test to confirm no leaks?

 

Just a visual inspection will not be accurate. At the very least a compression or leak down test is going to be needed.