2011 Prius, typical problems, thinking of replacing engine

Dealer reacted the same way with us. I posted pics of my dirty a$$ cooler and valve somewhere on this site and they were BAD.

The idea of keeping to old parts is so you can clean them and have them ready to swap out at 50k miles. Then clean the next set and have it ready for the next swap. That way you don’t have down time while cleaning parts.


-Spiral

 

Yeah welcome to the asylum, lol.

 

At least us inmates are educated .

 

I'm in the same boat now, and wished to know a mechanic who does such replacement for reasonable price around Utah or 1k mile radius )

 

It will be the same car with a like-new engine. That's a big plus, but still, the rest of the car is what it is. @Ragingfit makes a sage comment, at 13:00:

 

Your profile says DC, but you mentioned Utah. I'm about 3.5-4 hours below DC. My engine was $1600 out of a wrecked 2016 with 5810 miles. I went and picked it up, bought a new engine hoist and stand, and still less than $2500 for the whole shebang.

 

Hasn't updated yet my profile.
$2500, but still need you someone to swap right?

 

When I have a vehicle with a critical fault that still runs it’s almost always cheaper to not touch a thing and just modify oil changes and maintanence behavior and run it into the ground.

You can still buy a lot of gas for $6000

 

No, $1600 for engine, about $300 for engine hoist and stand (Northern Tools), $55 for gas to go get, 4 cans of Brake Kleen, $5 exhaust gasket, $21 for coolant, $70 for torque wrench, @ $12 for anti seize and di-electric grease, and maybe a few other odds and ends and I did the swap.

 

Yeah, maybe I did not emphasize that I do not have a garage neither expertise for such task Also not sure where to find some to do the job with confidence here around..

 

Where in Utah are you located?

I know Maxat here in the Northern California region does the engine swaps and the head gasket job.

Not sure on pricing though.

 

Maxat quoted me $2k for the head gasket only (no resurfacing of the cylinder head).

 

you want a '14 or '15. if a '14, it has to have a vin ending after the one in my sig for updated rings and pistons.
unfortunately, we don't know yet if that is the solution, but at least it should be better.
if you can swing a '16, (gen 4) that would be best.

 

Unfortunately some guys can't find a loose hose even when you tell them to look for it. A pcv hose is hard to see without taking off the intake manifold but an up to date shop has a borescope (eg a camera on a flexible cable) to inspect. Hopefully they replaced the $10 pcv valve which likely clogged causing the pressure to build.

Bisco, that vin sequence code is only good for a plugin from 2014.



If the Op wants a newer car they should get a 2016 or newer gen4 (excluding the 16-17 v wagon). There are more problems than just rings in a gen3. But the Op would have the better pistons and rings in their rebuilt engine so staying with it is far better than chancing another unknown gen3.