Bigger Oil Filter?

So I did a Motor Treatment on my Prius at 230k miles as it was burning a considerable amount of oil and after the oil change, my filter clogged in a less than 1000 miles and will need to be replaced again. The good news is that my oil consumption has dropped dramatically. But I'm wondering if there's a bigger oil filter that will last a bit longer while I'm having to change my filters frequently. I'm thinking there's gotta be a longer one for another car that is compatible...

If I was to get a larger truck size filter and a kit to move the oil filter, where could i put it?

Really want to stop adding oil...

 

There is a bypass built into every filter so that when it does fill up, dirty oil still gets to the engine. Unfiltered oil will sound much different than filtered oil if you not the difference in the sound before and after an oil change, though I suppose I could get into the ECU and get a figure on the oil pressure too.

Also, upon initially putting the motor treatment into the engine, it started getting louder, then I changed it as directed in 100 to 300 miles and it got quieter (I suppose on a hybrid you could stretch that even further, but I think it was obvious from the sound that it had clogged, sounds like a hole in your exhaust though some of that could be from cleaner valves that now have less gunk to compensate for their lack of adjustment too). I should also note that it went from burning a quart every 500 miles to not burning anything during the 300 mile motor treatment and has now burned less than half a quart (0.3 - 0.4) in 1400 miles and the trend is towards burning progressively less every time I check it, though it didn't burn any oil for about the first 500-600 miles during which time I'm guessing the lower piston ring was still pretty clean as a result of the new filter and hasn't burned any in the last 200 miles that I've driven it. Oil consumption during my ownership has been very consistent, you could guess the mileage by it.

It was also about .1 quart overfilled when I took it off the jack stands. But this is a Toyota that hasn't had the recommended 50k motor and fuel system treatment that according to other users here was offered at some dealerships but is not mentioned in consumer literature. Oh, and I'll also note that I didn't see anything about getting a valve adjustment with tune ups (every 120k) anywhere but on a sticker under the hood... The dealer I bought it from said all Toyotas sound like that when I bought it... no wonder... Anyways, I'm reaching the 240k mark and I'll be able to get a good look inside when I pop the valve cover off and do the adjustment. The used valve covers on eBay are all very badly varnished with some having known mileages, so it'll be interesting to see how mine looks in comparison to those. I plan to repeat the motor treatment as many times as it takes to stop burning oil and won't mind popping it off again to have a look when it does to help out the forum. I will also scrub the varnish from the valve cover and anything else I can remove and replace from the valve train with Dawn or some cheap eco friendly ATF to make sure it's clean when I put it all back together, I want to get as much out as fast as possible and be done with catch up maintenance. I've always wanted to brag about having a high mileage car lol. The motor treatment and fuel treatment bottles are about 13 USD for both and contain about 5 and 3 uses (though mechanic rates are $100+ and up to several hundred). The oil I'm using is good for 15k and my oil funnel has a built in sludge filter, so I'm just going to put it back in with the new filter and keep topping it off during this process. It's the Pennzoil Full Synthetic... they were out of the high mileage stuff.

Oh, and the CarFax does show some "Vehicle Serviced" incidents, but they are well before and way off on the mileage for being motor or fuel treatment services, so I'm guessing that means other minor repairs not worth itemizing. I don't see any tune up record, though I think they changed the plugs when I bought it.

Oh, and I'd watch some videos of other people doing the spray fuel system treatment before doing it yourself.

Oh, and I own a borescope, so I can check out the cylinders when I do the tune up, valve adjustment, and further fuel and motor treatments to see how this process progresses.

Still hoping someone has a lead on a physically longer, longer lasting filter.

 

The Motor Treatment is Seafoam believe it or not. Though Toyota dealerships have expensive orange bottles with their name on it which may be more reliable oslt. lol Too bad the ingredients can't be compared, though I'll add that it's safe for you (no Prop 65 warning)

I'll also add that I've heard the arguments against the need to use Seafoam in modern cars, but while it may not be needed for it's original purpose, it stood to reason that it would still be effective for something like this. So I'm trying it.

There may also be some risk according to random mechanics that allowing sludge to circulate in your engine could cause wear, and they could be right about that. But the symptom of that wear would be loss of compression and there are plenty of oils and other products that can restore compression to a reasonable degree assuming the Seafoam doesn't dissolve the upper piston rings oslt... but so far so good.

Castrol Magnatec/Edge and Royal Purple can restore lost compression quite effectively as I understand it and in a clean engine, the other specialty additives that restore metal surfaces with fillers etc. will very likely work more reliably. So I've got contingency plans that I'm quite confident with assuming the worst case scenarios and I'm planning to do OCs or at least new filters at least every 2k miles based on how the engine sounds. The goal is to have it running like new by 240k when I do the tune up and valve adjustment.

Egg_Salad: I've been trying alot of filters, but haven't used Toyotas yet. So far it looks like the SuperTech filter fits the oil filter socket most snuggly. So that's what I'm using next, but I'd eventually like to try using a Mobile 1 103A iirc as it's rated for 20k miles and I would eventually like to have the convenience of not having to change my oil all the time. The Frams, SuperTechs, and others I've been using are all xx4967. I did see some oil filters that just had a 1/2 drive socket on it, that would be nice for this experiment if they weren't ~$13/ea...

Does anyone know what models the YZZF1 and YZZF3 are for?

What's the PH3600 for?

Where can we confirm the specs?

 

Sam, I think you missed part of what I read, I understood the risks and had a plan of action. I was also thinking of just buying a core engine, a book, and a rebuild kit or low mileage salvage engine. The bottom line is that it won't kill the car, the worst case scenario is that I lose some mpg. The best case scenario is that I help the community better understand the problem and solutions in an actionable manner.

Anyways, I topped it off with half a quart of Castrol Edge a day and a half ago, which tends to be a quieter oil anyways. Did I lose power? I have the same amount of power that I had the last time I had 100% or near 100% Castrol oil (Magnatec) in it. All in all, this car has alot to teach me and I'd rather it be dependent on an oil brand than be dependent on me and the inconvenience of adding half a quart of oil every time I fill the gas tank.

The Seafoam bottle only says to change the oil once, and I suppose that if I had used most of the name brand oils, I wouldn't have seen much of a difference, but the pennzoil is another beast and as I understand it, has more detergent power than the rest, especially where burning oil is concerned. There's a guy on Youtube who pressure boils them all over a bunsen burner oslt and the Pennzoil and one of the BMW varieties left the flasks the cleanest. Castrol does still seem to be a more effective lubricant despite having an offensive odor and causing me a tiny bit of respiratory distress when the odor is in the air. Would love to hear about more eco friendly alternatives that have the same lubrication qualities as the Castrol Magnatec/Edge which are readily available.

 

What do you make of the Base Gasket I.D and O.D (Inner and Outer Diameter?). These are something you've definitely tried oldtechaa? Does the surface accommodate it readily?
Gasket Diameters:
PH4967: 2.188 ID, 2.438 OD
PH3600: 2.469 ID, 2.750 OD

 

I'm about to change the oil again. I topped it off with Castrol Edge like I said and it suddenly burned 3/4 of a quart in about 200 miles... The Castrol Edge is about 2-3 years old... not sure if that had much to do with it, but it's apparently very paraffinic (contains lots of paraffin wax like substances... 50-75% which can have lower flash points in the neighborhood of 200–240 °C/392–464 °F compared to base oils generally ranging from 420-485 °F)

Maybe the solution here is an oil cooler. Any leads on how I could hook that up? Engine hasn't been shutting off, it might be time to work on the hybrid battery.

I wouldn't mess with the oil pan unless I absolutely have to... that would be the last thing I did if I couldn't just start over with a low mileage engine. As I understand it, the bolts can snap and require welding. Mine has already needed this... I don't weld, gasket conditioners it is!

I'll update later today after I do a warm oil change and a very short motor treatment.

I eventually will do a compression test and I ordered a book with the valve adjustment torque specs and I'm thinking that a compression test might not be useful if the valves aren't properly adjusted first, and I know they aren't.

The oil got very dark after topping it off with Castrol Edge and I really don't think it's from any kind degreaser additive... Given that if paraffin waxes/oils melting on my lifters etc are the means by which they are quieted, I might want to use some additional motor treatment for a short trip around town or just in the driveway to clean that backstep out and then stick with the pennzoil... or perhaps that's all these resurfacers are and dirty engines are the way to go to keep compression? Like I said it's a learning process... I can always filth it up again if that was all that was holding it together.

Oh, and oddly enough, supertech claims that it's ingredients aren't known to require listing on an MSDS... I wonder if they are bending the rules or are just using straight food oil oslt?

 

Oh, and with the gunk being loose now, and oil consumption being less when I'm not filling it full of paraffins, it should eventually stop using filters.

The car fax shows regular oil changes at 5 and 10k intervals, at least for the first owner and during option warranty periods. After that records get spotty, but owners start doing their own maintenance or get it done at shops that don't keep detailed records.

Ah, this looks promising, CAS 64742-65-0 (Adriatic Spindle Oil) is used in heat transfer applications for up to 600 °F so it's effectively removing heat from some internal component of our engines that produces the highest degree of heat and preventing the cascade of effects which burns the paraffins and changes the nature of base oils leaving behind deposits which would normally make switching back to Toyota oils to stop burning oil futile... but assuming that Seafoam Motor Treatment or whatever Toyota uses can effectively remove those deposits with a few oil/filter changes, it might still be possible. So much for the conventional wisdom that all oils are the same, we're living in the era of synthetic (oil) wisdom!

I suppose a good transition back to Toyota oil would be to find pure CAS 64742-65-0 (Adriatic Spindle Oil) and add it to the HM Pennzoil Platinum for it's ability to clean the engine or perhaps that would be sufficient to replace Toyota oil which still contains paraffins that could degrade in the engine if it ever overheats due to a radiator relay failure oslt assuming that Adriatic Spindle Oil would protect it under more moderate conditions. I suppose the temperature where you live could also lead to burning those paraffins as well.