Shudder, cylinder 3 misfire, check engine light

A couple of people here have installed Gen 4 Prius engines in Gen 3 cars. There should be a supply of low mileage engines for sale. They will chime in on this I am sure.

 

I’m fairly certain that’s a bent rod on number 3. I’d venture to say that you would get a noise on that cylinder when running if you reassemble this engine as is. I’m pretty sure, in retrospect, that is the mystery noise mine had when I got it. Mine was on number one though. You already have the head and things out of the way. Pull the short block. A rod is $70 thru Toyota. Or swap in a lower mile Gen 4. Since you have the gaskets and such to reassemble yours, put your head on the Gen 4 shortblock and put this one to bed.

 

The Gen 4 shortblock has added stainless steel insulation in the water jackets, possibly to “maintain” coolant temps. I’m just guessing at the actual purpose, but yes they are there.

The newer Gen 3 engines, if you get a used one, at least in my area, are still priced several hundred dollars over the Gen 4. Is it logical that the price is more for an older engine? No. But the fact remains that the Gen 4 swap into a Gen 3 is still not a mainstream idea, and most, if not all yards get a premium price for the Gen 3 engines, run tested or not.

 

Since the O/P has already had their head resurfaced and has the full overhaul gasket set in their possession, I am suggesting a new gen 3 short block from Toyota:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F302537132072

 

I'm thinking a new connecting rod and updated pistons and rings.

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BTW, I've changed a couple bent connecting rods on these and they came out fine.

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Can the upper oil pan be removed without removing the short block?

 

If I remember correctly, I think some of the bellhousing bolts pass thru the upper oil pan. I no longer have my old engine to look at though.

But if it was me, I’d pull the shortblock for changing the rod.

 

No need to remove the ac. I unbolted mine, wrapped a bungie cord around it, and hooked it to the radiator support.

 

You do have to disconnect the 12v(small black connector) and the HV cable (orange plug though. Just for clearance issues.

 

Yes. That’s all you need to do

 

The short block only weighs about 100 pounds. Use a couple of the head bolts at opposite corners to attach your lifting device.

 

I think so. The last one I did was #2 and I only had to remove the lower oil pan and oil pump. I'm pretty sure you can remove the upper oil pan without removing the engine. Just don't disturb the rear oil seal and maybe put a thin film of FIPG/silicone where the seal contacts the upper oil pan.

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