Figured I'd introduce myself & my most recent purchase...2006 Prius STD with HF package 3, rear bumper applique and the Z1 preferred accessory package. It's a pretty basic model. I've been researching these cars for a while now, primarily on this forum. Outstanding resource you have here, BTW. I came across the car on CL. It was advertised for parts only, due to a bent frame. The traction battery was less than two years old, the aux battery was brand new. I texted the seller, she described how a little unintended off-roading had taken place. The car ended up high and dry on a tree stump. If I was interested, I could talk to her Dad & make him a deal. I figured the battery would be a great candidate for a car in better condition, so I went to check it out. I was surprised to hear that it could still run & drive. On further inspection, it appeared that the frame wasn't bent at all. The wheel & control arm had taken the brunt of the collision. The wheel had a cracked rim & flat tire but since had been replaced. The arm was pushed back about three inches, inner & outer tie rods are both bent, and the axle is contacting the front subframe. So I made him an offer, drove the car nine miles back to my place (it made a heck of a racket too) and here we are!
Here's a pic of the damage: Right Front Wheel by DesktopDave posted Mar 15, 2019 at 11:55 PM If I'm right about the frame being straight, I'll be in for a control arm, inner & outer idler arms, a strut tube and perhaps a driveshaft. Nothing a couple hundred bucks won't set right. Given that my wife's crossover averages about 14MPG, it shouldn't be too long before I've paid that off in fuel savings!
That's quite a find! I assume they gave you a great price. That picture of the wheel is pretty wild! Welcome to PC. You are right about it being a great resource. There are some really smart people here. (And a few lunatics, if you hadn't already noticed. )
You're going to love the gas mileage. Pump will stop around 8 gallons. That looks like very minor damage. I try to avoid collision damage but picked up a 40k mile 2011 corolla for $1200 in January. Figured if quotes were too high I'd just take a loss and sell it for 800, 900, 1000, etc. My mechanic was $600 to remove all the parts and replace including side curtain and steering wheel deployed airbags. Painter another $600. Surprisingly parts were only $1850. My cost with plate transfer will be ~$4500. (Still not done but getting very close.)
Thanks guys! I do have high hopes for the fuel mileage, but the car itself seems well built and easy to maintain. I've also noted a surprising amount of rust resistance, that's always a big deal here in the rust belt. My kids will be 'cutting their teeth' on this car. Not only for driving...I'm hoping to teach them vehicle maintenance & light repairs. Using cars up isn't an especially frugal lifestyle choice. Jerry - the car was pretty cheap. Used GenII with high miles typically list for $2.5-$4K here. I think this one will be back on the road for about $1500 all in. MilkyWay, that's an impressive job! I've done a little bodywork along the way, but your Corolla is above and beyond. It's always inspiring to see something saved instead of tossed aside. Have you noted that all the plastic and garnish trims on cars can make collision damage look far worse than it actually appears? Was that passenger frame rail still straight?
Since the weather is pretty gloomy here today, I'll be trying to set up a TechStream. It's a cheap eBay unit...I'm not setting my sights too high. I have an old Fujitsu dedicated for stuff like this. Usually it runs BMW software, but I don't think it would mind sharing space with some Toyota diagnostics. I'm quite fond of this little convertible laptop, it's running WinXP in 32-bit glory. I'll post a few pics if I'm successful.
Mixed results from the TechEdge install. It seems to have worked, except for the TIS install. I couldn't get Java to run...I suppose having a 20-year-old OS might not be the best configuration... Despite that setback, I was able to pull codes. Lots and lots of codes. Hybrid Control: B2799 (historical) Engine: P0420 (current, pending & historical) ABS/VSC: C0200, C0205, C1241, C1300 A/C: B1421, B1423 Gateway: B1271 (historical) Otherwise, the system was clear. I'll need to do something about the tire pressure warning and the key fob battery. Otherwise, we're in good shape! P0420: I'm suspecting that the catalyst code is set due to an exhaust leak. It sounds like it. Could be an O2 sensor too, they don't last forever. C0200: I'd strongly suspect the bent control arm and cracked rim might also explain the damaged FR wheel speed sensor. C0205: Looks like I might be buying a left-hand sensor too. C1241: Low system voltage (aux battery?) C1300: Skid Control ECU fault (aux battery? wiring fault?) B1421: Sun sensor malfunction? Nothing much to worry about, apparently. B1423: Compressor pressure or flow sensor switch fault (bad switch, I might need a professional for that). Historical data lines up with what the PO told me. B2799: Engine Immobilizer malfunction? Might have something to do with the dead fob battery. B1271: Combo meter comms problem in the past. PO had mentioned a capacitor repair...displays appear to be working just fine, he saved me a bit of work!
In other news, I managed to get a new battery into the key fob. Now I can unlock the car from inside my house! I also pulled off the rear hatch garnish to repair it. PO had fixed it with drywall screws. I used JB Weld instead, because I'm classy like that: Where does everyone get those little green plastic clips? I have the white ones but they're not really the correct size. Dash looks a little, uh, lit up: It's a work in progress, no doubt.
Honestly after you get the wheel repaired just reset all the codes and see what comes back. Sun sensor code is a joke. Is the traction battery a new Toyota replacement or a rebuilt/refurbished unit?
That's the plan, once I get done cleaning the car up. It's a real mess. The traction batter is a Dorman refurb. According to Toyota, it was replaced on July '14. According to the odo that's 50K miles ago. I was getting a little funkiness from the car this morning, triangle of death, found that the aux battery was nearly flat. I've tossed a smart charger on it. What tiny little terminals on that battery! Let's hope that's the cause. I spent a little time under the hood too, topping off the fluids and getting familiar with the layout. The air filter is pretty nasty, one of the clamps wasn't snapped down. The cabin air filter was totally choked with debris, could be an original.
I figured Dorman is a little less reliable than OEM. I was told that a Toyota dealer replaced the battery, but it'd be unusual for a dealer to install a Dorman battery, right?
Ah, now that makes sense. I don't get to dealers very often, in my experience they tend to refuse installation of aftermarket parts.
Varies. Some will some won't. I'd guess most won't. I had a Ford dealer put a used from the junkyard ABS pump on a Lincoln MKT...they had to do it twice cause the junkyard part was....junk! Still saved a lot though cause it was ridiculously expensive new.
I got a lot done over the weekend. The new passenger side control arm and tie rods are in! I actually took the car out for a drive. It desperately needs an alignment, there's a lot of squeaks, the car still smells like an ash tray, but it's running and (kinda) roadworthy! I've attached a few pics for your viewing pleasure:
That passenger side arm isn't a lot of fun, to be totally honest. I had to remove two motor mounts to get enough clearance for the front bolt. I know the engine has to sit pretty low to clear the low hood line, but that's a real piece of work to swap an arm. It would have been a lot easier if I could have dropped the subframe an inch or two. I discovered (much to my dismay) that it's been welded onto the chassis on the right side. Since I managed to break one of the other subframe bolts, I'll likely make the other end just the same. Toyota fasteners are a little on the delicate side, and they didn't spend much effort rustproofing them. I'll be much more careful in the future, as I'm accustomed to European-style fasteners. They tend to be more durable. OTOH the Toyota plastic clips have a lot of advantages too. Win some, lose some!
Aside from the bent mechanical items, start with the basics. Oil, filter, spark plugs, air filter, clean it inside and out and reset the codes. You should eliminate half the codes from coming back right there. Some of them I'm sure are related to the impact. Buy some $2 Odoban spray from walmart. Not only is it cheap but it actually does work at eliminating odors. Take out the cabin air filter behind the glovebox. They are cheap on ebay.
Lifting up by the oil pan? Why not use the engine and trans support just to the right of the oil pan. But good work and busy weekend otherwise.