From o2 sensor to engine replacement in 10 days?

No, only what that their tech keeps leading them to "engine replacement."

I find it odd that I told them to change the sensor no matter what, and it hasn't been done. I told them at least 3 times before they called me with their diagnosis. If it doesn't fix the problem then on top of an hour and a half of paid labor, they also get to be right.

Okay, I'll see what happens when I get the car back.

The pistons/valves statement came from the dealership that has been caught in a few lies, so seeing is believing on that one. Dealership 2 didn't know about the piston/valve thing after reviewing the files they have access to, via Toyota? Seems like something that should have accompanied the diagnosis, but they didn't note how they determined I needed another new cat and downstream sensor, so there's that.

 

My step-dad is over 100 miles away and not in good health. He's shouldn't be doing any of the work he's doing at home. It's worrisome, to me anyway, but his knowledge is invaluable when it comes to non-hybrid vehicles. He calls BS (figured he would), but agrees with others that I should get a new vehicle. Albeit, his reasons are different. I warned you about those confounded hybrids! Scrap that thing and get a bicycle! You'd be much better off! Then he follows that up with actual advice, he's the best!



My friend is also very good with combustion engines, but doesn't work on hybrids. I asked him to look at the ICE and tell me what he saw. He's the one who ruled out the sludge in the first place. After the troubleshooting I did, thanks to the help of everyone here, he came to the same conclusions as many others - get rid of the aftermarket sensor and get a toyota one.

He drove it after the first dead engine diagnosis, and when I asked him if he noted any signs of what I'm being told by either dealership, the answer was no. He was astonished when I told him what I was told today. Now that I have the sensor socket, thanks to another member here, he may be willing to change it. I'm waiting to hear back from him now but, as noted, he doesn't work on hybrids.

Both disagree with the diagnosis, there would have been more signs. The piston/valve/no oil theory would have been loud with a lot of clunking noises. Also noted, that it could drive with sludge, but it would drive like absolute **** and you would know it long before it died.

My step-dad said to get it out of there, we know it's not what they say and they obviously aren't going to change the sensor as I repeatedly requested, and letting them open the manifold will prove you right and cost you gaskets.

I'm aware that it may be something other than the sensor, but it seems a reasonable place to start. I don't want to chase this down to the point of "could have had a new car with the amount I spent," but I do want to see what putting the OEM on would do. They are so dead set against replacing this sensor and I want to know why. It's definitely achievable, it's not like I'm asking them to change the blinker fluid.

 

Thank you, Paul.

If this turns into a cut my losses and get a new one thing, then I'll likely pick something up from a dealer. I like warranties.

 

I made an appt at my friends garage, he's willing to put in the sensor. I did make sure he knew before he took that job that the inverter needs to come out in order to reach it. He's also willing to do the camera inspection and compression test. However, he can't get me in until the 28th.

I set up a conference call to the dealership with my step-dad so he could ask the questions and I can stop being the messenger. After the phone call, his advice was to do the compression test (I authorized the test). He said that will tell us for sure if the engine is shot, regardless of the reason why. If I understand correctly, the results of this test should be 150psi (or higher) per cylinder with no more than a 10% variation between the highest an lowest reading. Is that accurate?

I'll be getting the read out from the machine and if it the test results indicate that the engine is shot, then I've got a heavy decision to make. If it tests fine then I'll proceed with the sensor replacement, and if that's not the fix it needs, then I've got a heavy decision to make.

I think that we've put too much money into this car already and a "new" engine brings about many concerns, and I'm still highly suspect of that sensor. I am more inclined to walk away and eat my losses.

 

After speaking to the dealership today, we cleared up the diagnostic hours issue. He said that they did spend 5 hours on it, but will only be billing me for what I authorized. Seems like it was a miscommunication.

As for the sensor, see #371. I've every intention of contacting corporate again, but will wait until this car conundrum concludes.

 

Thank you! I had the spark plugs changed in May at the dealership, so they better be the right ones!

I do have the mini VCI, and will double check their results. It's something I should learn to do anyhow.

I'm not too fond of letting them do it either, but I did so on Pop's advice. Said if they'd do it sooner, then let them, but don't take a verbal answer. Look at the print out and make darn sure it came from that machine! My other half agreed with him, because of course he did, and is covering the cost of the test because I am refusing to give them another red cent. Outside to what I've agreed to, of course.

This guy seems a bit more agreeable than the last guy, and has stated several times that he doesn't want to see us dumping a lot of money into diagnostics when the engine or car can be replaced with those funds. We'll know soon enough whether or not he's being genuine. In the meantime, I'll probably conference my step-dad in on all the calls. I'm sure that helped quite a bit.

 

I only know what pop's said on that one. This is uncharted territory for me.