Replacing a 2008 Prius VALVE ASSEMBLY, CAMSHAFT TIMING OIL CONTROL Part Number: 15330-21011

Hi everyone,

First of all, I drive a 2008 Prius with 208,000 miles on the car. I started getting the code P0011 recently which indicates "Camshaft Position 'A' Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance Bank 1. From what I have read, this could be a problem with one of the following:

Low or Dirty Engine Oil: My oil is clean (full synthetic w/fram synthetic filter) and not low

Damaged ECM: My ECM checks out fine

So after some extensive research I determined my problem was a faulty camshaft timing oil control (part # 15330-21011) We will call it the VVT. And by the way, I already removed and checked out the Oil control filter (part # 15678-20010) and it was fine.

First to locate the Camshaft timing control valve: Which is located on the left side of the engine right next to cylinder 1 just behind the air filter assembly. Very easy to see and to get to once the air filter assembly is removed out of the way.

1. Remove the air filter assembly (AFA) by removing the two 10mm bolts holding it on. Then loosen the clamp holding the assembly to the throttle assembly below the AFA (10MM socket needed). Then unplug the MAF and loosen the clamp (10mm) holding the air inlet hose and just set the AFA aside. Really an easy job that took less than 5 minutes.

2. Then just below and behind where the AFA was, you can see the camshaft timing oil control valve screwed into the engine block to the left of cylinder 1 of the intake manifold. With a black electric connector plugged into it. First remove the connector. Than remove the single 10mm bolt holding the VVT on. From my experience you will not get it out without breaking it off. I went to a pick and pull lot with 4 2nd generation Prius' and was not able to get a single one removed without it breaking off (cheap made plastic) with the front piece stuck into the engine block. But not to panic as there is an easy removal method. First, before starting this project, go to Lowes and purchase a 5/8" lag bolt at least 4 inches long. Then screw the bolt into the broken piece in the engine block. Once secured, take a flat head screwdriver and place it in front of the hex head, leaning away from the engine and give it a firm tap with a hammer and the piece should just slide out. I practiced this at the junkyard a couple of times and it worked flawlessly. After removing, just below the hole you will see a hex bolt. You will need a 8mm hex socket to remove it. A cheat bar with some pressure will get it loose. Than remove it and the very small filter to check it out. Mine was pretty clean, so I sprayed it with brake cleaner and replaced it.

3. Now install the new VVT by oiling the 0-ring and then slowly pushing it in gently rotating it back and forth. Then screw in the 10MM bolt snugly. and plug in the electric connector. Then replace the air filter assembly tighten all the screws and plug in the MAF sensor and you are get to go. Took me less than a half hour. If you are not sure how to do it, go to a pick and pull yard and practice on it as I did.

There are photos of where the VVT is located on much earlier threads on this site. I believe that Patrick Wong has posted a photo of the location of the VVT. Sorry but I did not take any photos.

And by the way, once installed, the check engine light has not returned in over 500 miles. Hope this helps others.

If I get a chance, I will go back out to pick & pull and take a photo of the location of the VVT to add here. When I purchased a new one, I did not go OEM because of them being plastic made. Went for an aftermarket steel made one, probably from China. We will see how long it lasts. But so far so good.

 

Didn't need to change filters because the original was actually pretty much clean--no gunk or thick oil build up blocking it. . So all I had to do was spray it with brake cleaner, let it dry and reinstall. This job was far easier than I had anticipated! Everything was easy to remove and gain access to. I had fun at pick & pull experimenting with the whole procedure. Boy are those valves made cheaply. I was trying to be gentle and carefully as possible when trying to slowly twist back and forth while trying to extract it, and every single one broke off (had 4 2nd generation prius' on the lot and broke all 4 off. And in fact the first one just fell off as soon as I took the bolt off.

 

Actually, when I change oil, I drain the oil and then lower the jack all the way and let the remaining oil drain out. Then jack the car back up, and replace the plug with a new washer and hand tighten until snug without force. and then replace the oil filter and hand tighten, lower the jack and remove it and fill with oil.

Also, after filling the oil, I run the engine for a couple of minutes, turn it off and let the car sit until I clean up everything, replace the tools and then check the oil level to make sure it is at the full mark. Then I take the car for a short ride, return to my garage and turn the car off, check for leaks and let it sit for about 15 minutes while I do other things. And then recheck the dip stick to make sure its at the right level and then I am done. And as for the oil filter, I use the Fram XG4967 Ultra Synthetic. My oil of choice is Walmart's Super Tech High Mileage Full Synthetic 5w30 Dexos 2 at only $15.98 per 5 quart container. Good as any of the name brands and much cheaper.

Also, as for the oil filters, I picked up a 6 pack of the Fram XG4967 Ultra Full synthetic for only $28.99 ($4.83 each) Walmart sells them for $8.97 each. Far better than the OEM Toyota filter

 

Actually, I always change oil and filter together and it takes 3.5 quarts to fill. I put 3-5 quarts in last and after taking it for a ride and then letting it set for about 15 minutes, it measured to the fill point as it did when I first filled it. Didn't have to wait overnight.

As for the oil, Mobil 1 is really no better than Super Tech. Both test similar. If you wish, I could give you websites to look at oil comparisons. I used to be a Mobil1 guy until I came across super tech full synthetic and did some research on it. Been using it for about 3 years and just started using the Super Tech High Mileage about 5 months ago and love it. I bought this 08 Prius back in the spring with 200,000 miles on it and could tell that the previous owner did not change oil much and it was burning it pretty good. So I have a mechanic my way that specializes in 2nd generation prius' and had him put a low miles engine and tranny in my car a few of weeks ago. And immediately started using Super Tech High Mileage 5w30 full synthetic. What I have noticed is that with over 1,600 miles on the car and no drop in oil level. And even more impressive is that the oil is almost as clear as it was out of the container. Seems the oil and filter are working together fine so far. Will update you when my maintenance light comes on.

And as for the filter I could also give you websites with filter comparisons. And to be honest, never liked fram filters until I saw the break down of this ultra synthetic filter.

By the way, hope you had a great holiday season and broke in the new year OK. And thanks for your feedback. I will take your advice tomorrow. When I am done for the evening, I will check my oil level after letting it sit for about 15 minutes. And then once again in the morning and see what the dip stick shows.

 

My mileage right now is only around 40 MPG, which is expected during cold weather--I live in the Syracuse, NY area (snow country). During the warmer weather I had been getting 44-47 MPG and expect that to be the same once warm weather is back. Am thinking of blocking the front grill for the rest of the winter and see if that helps gas mileage wise. I have just started using only "Top Tier" gas brands such as Sunoco which is selling for around $2.30 per gallon which is about the same as Delta Sonic and Speedway which are non-detergent gasoline. Using Top Tier gas like Sunoco saves money by not having to put Techron in your gas tank every so often. Between full synthetic oil and Detergent laced gasoline, I am hoping to keep my engine in great shape for years to come.

 

What do you mean? I jack up the car to change the oil. After I remove the oil pan plug, I lower the jack all the way to make sure I get as much oil drained as possible. I wait a few minutes to make sure most, if not all the old oil is drained from the oil pan. Then I jack the car back up to replace the oil plug with new washer and then change the oil filter out. Hope you had a great holiday season!

 

Ah, I get it. My 2008 has the drain plug on the right side of the pan. So you are probably right that your's jacked up would be the best way to get rid of most of the oil in the pan.