Brake Actuator Replacement

I got everything put back together, and bled the head cylinder as well as the inverter. Next, I plugged the safety plug and the 12V battery back in. To bleed my brakes, I attempted to turn the power on. All the brake lights came on, which I expected - but the red triangle and check engine light came on as well. Also, I can't get my trunk door open; the info display (not the dash) is completely dark; the clock display seems really dim; and the engine won't start at all. I did notice 2 or 3 clicks from back by the safety plug when I first started the car.

I checked and rechecked all my connections - they're all tight. I checked the safety plug (by laying the back seats down and crawling into the trunk) and it's properly installed. What else should I check? Any ideas? I just had the the hybrid battery replaced and haven't had any issues with it until now.

 

Update: The "R", "N", "D", "P", and "B" are all flashing. So is the fuel level indicator.

 

Update 2: All of the lights (except for the check engine light went out). In Techstream, the "Power Source Control" ECU is "not available". There's got to be an electrical issues somewhere, but I'm not sure where to start looking for it.

 

Start by measuring voltage across the 12V battery. I think you will find the battery is dead.

If you don't have a voltmeter, turn on the headlights. Are they bright? If they are dim, the battery is dead.

 

Brilliant, Holmes. I measured 8.25V on the battery, significantly below the ~13V that is required. I didn't think to check it because it was fully charged yesterday, but I've had it running on 12V power alot since I've been working on it.

 

I hooked the battery up to a trickle charger and measured ~12.5V. Turned the car back and and things appear as I would expect. That was the best thing I could've hoped for. Thank you!

 

Your 12V battery is marginal. A battery will not swing from 8.25V to 12.5V in a matter of minutes no matter how much charging current was used, unless the battery is weak and about to fail. So plan to buy a replacement soon.

 

Had a new battery, so I went ahead and put it in. It's measuring 13.92V. Currently, the Trac, (!), ABS, BRAKE, VSC, and Check Engine lights are on. The car is immobile. It will power up, but the engine won't start and it won't shift out of neutral

I did a health check with Techstream and couldn't find any DTCs. However, under "Engine and ECT" I discovered that some DTC Monitors are "incomplete". I dug deeper and found that the "Heated Catalyst", "Secondary Air System", "AC System", "O2 Sensor Heater", and "Exhaust Gas Recirculation" are all "N/A". Any ideas what that could be?

 

The power supply was recently interrupted. The emission-inspection monitors will show "incomplete" until the car has been driven enough for the ECU to determine the values are ok. This is a feature for jurisdictions that require emissions inspections, so if you try to clear a trouble code by disconnecting the battery (or with a tool) just before going in for your inspection, it shows.

That's all the "incomplete" means.

-Chap

 

Regarding the traction battery interlock, make sure that the lever was pivoted 90 degrees, then slid down.

With all of the warning lights that are on, there must be some logged DTC.

 

Gotcha. Still can get the engine to turn on though so driving it really isn't an option.

 

Did some more digging.

So the first time I turned the vehicle on after working on it, I didn't have the hybrid battery safety plug properly installed. I removed it and reinstalled it correctly. Car still won't start.

This morning, I noticed DTC C2318 is present. I troubleshot according to the manual and arrived at "replace transmission ECU". It seems crazy that my transmission ECU went bad during an actuator replacement... Once again, my 12V battery is measuring ~13.8V terminal to terminal.

Anyone else have any ideas? I'm about to start looking into what it'll take to replace the ECU.

 

I cleared the DTC and it doesn't come up anymore - meaning tht when I connect Techstream, and clicked on the Transmission ECU, there are no diagnostic codes displayed. Is there any easier way to read all the DTCs without clicking through each ECU?

 

Here is the workup for C2318 :

https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/repair%20manual/04pruisr/05/21age/cic2318.pdf

 

Yeah, I've for the AllDataDIY manuals, so I went through that process. The actual voltage was about 8.9 which I figure was enough to call it "normal". Thus, it seems I need to replace my transmission ECU (per the manual, step 3). That seems a bit odd to me, so I thought I'd clear the code and see if it reappeared. When checking with Techstream, the code does not appear, so I'm not sure how to proceed.

 

Did you replenish/replace the antifreeze after bleeding the coolant, in order to access the ABS actuator?


iPhone ?

 

Yes, I refilled the inverter coolant with pink coolant and bleed the system per the instructions listed in the manual. The circulation was excellent and it didn't sound like there was any air in the system. Also, I replaced the pump a few months ago and haven't had any issues with it.

 

As Patrick mentioned above, there should be DTCs logging.

Though the 'heath check' button is easier, continue scanning each ECU to see if you get different results. I've heard of this happening.

 

I jumpered some OBD pins to get the car into diagnostic mode and checked battery strenght. After pressing the power button once, it reads 12.3V. After pressing the power button again, it drops to 11.7V for a split second and then settled at 12.0V. Is this too weak to start the car?