Best engine oil for car - Toyota genuine? Honda genuine? 0w-20 5w-30?

Just a leetle too balmy though? They had to truck in the snow. Korea was amazingly cold, for such a southern latitude..., or is it longitude...

 

Meh, it was pleasant.

It was interesting that they had to truck in snow and we did watch some events up at Whistler. Beautiful drive along the coast to get there from Vancouver .

I would have expected things to be cooler above the 49th parallel (latitude), but it seems like Vancouver is much like San Francisco in that regard .

 

Would make for interesting eating if someone missed the note.

 

I have a better container now, a 10 liter No-spill gas can, lol. I'm still using the old Canola bottles though, when I'm juggling more than 10 liters, and/or multiple grades.

 

That's for the Modular V8 from 2006 (which has an amazingly durable Ricardo-built gearbox, which is largely untouched on some of the fastest cars in the world as measured on the Texas Mile). The 2018 GT has a recommendation of 5W-50. Nissan warranties the VR38DETT in the GT-R similarly and they run 0W-40.

After reading numerous threads on bobistheoilguy, I've come to the conclusion that most synthetic engine oil is pretty good these days and maintaining regular service intervals has more impact on engine life and durability for typical road cars. I've been sticking to walmart jugs of Mobil 1 with more frequent oil changes on cars that see track time.5W-30 as specified in the manual for the Gen2 Prius since the engine isn't modified.

 

FYI

I have done the same as well and agree IMHO
North Texas winter which is currently upon us and temperature are forecasted to drop in the coming week will surely make the mpg take a hit . I am currently getting 55.2mpg however common sense indicates to myself that ambient temps currently at 65 F and forecast in the next three days to drop to 50 F high for sure mpg will take a hit. I also do the following to improve my mpg

USE ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
USE OIL PAN HEATER
Grill Block modified
Use starting spray (small squirt at most) in airbox
attempt to drive in warmest part of day if possible

 

I agree with the members statement about most synthetic oil being the same. I used to use only Mobile 1 in our vehicles. Now being more experienced and wishing to have more money for my family rather than spend it on something like oil I switched to (heaven forbid) Walmart Super Tech synthetic oil.
I use 5W-30 but noticed Super Tech comes in 0W-20 also now.

I also moved my oil changes to once a year or 10,000 miles. I do change only the oil filter every 5,000 miles. I have been doing this now for the last 4 years with no ill effect on our 2008 Prius with 140,000 miles on it.

The Walmart synthetic oil is about $10 cheaper in my area than Mobile 1. Also by changing oil every 10,000 miles I save about an additional $30. I do this for our other vehicle also. A total savings of $40 per vehicle or $80 a year. So for 4 years I have saved about $320 to spend on the family rather than pour down an oil recycling barrel. Both vehicles have over 140,000 and run wonderfully. The one larger vehicle completed a trouble free trip across the United States last year. I do use a good oil filter on both cars the Puralator brand which I catch on sale and buy a couple at a time

 

You will spend more $$$ in electricity than you will save in fuel costs at that MPG over about 30 and ambients above 0*F.

Same as block heater, a net loss to the pocketbook

Keep a close eye on coolant temps, you may not have enough airflow in heavy traffic on a 60+ degree day to keep the engine cool.

VERY VARY BAD IDEA. Absolutely ZERO benefit in that and lots of potential for internal engine damage.

 

Yeah could mess up the MAP sensor, for starters? And the engine air filter? Surely not removing the air filter box to do this??

I had the Toyota block heater installed, eight-o'clock-day-one, and we aim to use it for a couple of hours before the first cold-start of the day, almost without fail, year 'round. It raises the coolant temp by 20~30C, and typically means you get engine shut-down at red lights or stop signs, within a block, two at the most.

Beside mpg gains, I think regular block heater use may "pamper" the engine, reduce the wear imposed by cold starts?

I used an online calculator to see the cost. Our kwh cost is 8.8 cents (CDN):


(They didn't have a block heater option, the power consumption 400 watts is correct though.)

 

Sensors are not "internal engine damage", but yes, very bad idea regardless.

You are in Canada, he's in TX, not the same cost-benefit. He will pay ~0.11/kw-hr and gain fewer coolant degrees as he's starting 50*F warmer most days

The reduced wear will not come from warm coolant, that is a total myth. Reduced engine wear comes from warmer OIL, because it pumps faster and gets to the critical parts that much faster. Also GREATLY reduces the amps required to start.

 

FYI
I used block heater and oil pan heater for some considerable time with no adverse effect. Block heaters, oil warming go back to WW2 and aircraft engines.....point taken on start fluid.....
The dead of winter and winter driving is hard on almost all vehicles from what I have seen...

 

Do not recall anyone saying they would, but that their use would be more costly than any savings they might provide.

 

Motul 5-30 Is one of the best you can get...I dont belive it matters how long oil last, but how dirty it is does.

 

WOW. ... here I am thinking that as long as the oil you use carries either the API or ACEA classifications and was rated SN or GF-5 you were good-to-go. A long long time ago when I was racing cars we ran one for a season on full Rislone. The next year we ran that car on all STP products. Back when I went to shop class to learn about car stuff my instructor told us that the engine started breaking down right from the very first start-up. Good lubrication made break-down take so much longer. The newer the car ... the closer the tolerances ... the lighter the oil. Old cars get heavier oil. My wife's pita Beemer has to run on 0-30 synthetic because of the built-in sensors ... or so I'm told. My '62 Falcon runs on 20-50. The car that my Prius replaced, a 1998 ZX2, ran on a combination of Lucas, Hyper-Lube, Rislone, Marvel Mystery Oil and either Slick-50 or Dura-Lube ... whichever was on sale. That car sorta failed me by only going 245,000 miles. I think with our wonderful cars (how do you do plural Prius?), any oil that makes us happy as owners is the best choice. Come time for the next change on mine I'm gonna scope it for compression and go with either 0-30, 5-30 or 10-30 depending on the outcome. Never before have I had this much interest ... but this is my first Japanese car and I'm giving it it's due respect. The guys at Toyota did a change when I bought the car. They said regular not synthetic. That's good for me ... $5/qt. savings.

 

[Tyler Durden] On a long enough timeline.....[/Tyler Durden]

 

I say 'Priuses.'
Many Prius owners prefer Prii (pronounciated Pree-Eye.)


Your call.

 

OK ...

Who is this "Tyler Durden" person ? ... And what is the story behind the post?

TIA for the explanation.​

 

Never seen Fight Club, huh?

Chuck Palahniuk said that he liked the movie better than his book (which the movie was based on).

 

Precisely, you are good to go.

 

is it dino or syn?