Stuck oil filter

Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Counter-clockwise to take it off. You might want to try a cup style oil filter wrench. Any parts store will have one or places like Harbor Freight. You use a generally a 3//8" ratchet to remove and install the filter with these. The tight service area for these oil filters on the Pri, that is the only tool I use. Something like this.

End Cap Oil Filter Wrench Set, 4 Piece

 

Yeah oil filters loosen the same as any other bolt. Just thinking what a cruel joke that'd be, lol.

To chime in: what are you using, what tools?

I've never had problems with a heavy gauge oil filter socket (actually a Honda automotive oil filter socket, same size), and a good quality, long-handled ratchet wrench.

Who put it on last time? If it was a mechanic with air tools, likely the issue.

 

NEVER, ever install a filter with a tool. Hand-tighten only. From years of reading the side of filter boxes, I think it goes:

Hand-tighten until gasket makes contact and tighten 3/4 of a turn more.

I just tighten until it feels right

Normally I can remove with no tools, but their has been times in the past that I have had to resort to tools. When the end-cap does not work, sometimes, if there is room the "pliers" type wrench works.

Best Oil Filter Wrench Parts for Cars, Trucks & SUVs

 

I used to use the best oil (synthetic), but the cheapest filter. I noticed some filters have a graphic not to oil the gasket. If I forgot and oiled it (STP comes to mind as the brand), it would be extremely hard to remove. So much so I’d need someone else to help me because it would deform in the cap wrench, (soft metal).

 

Here's what Toyota has to say, 2nd gen oil and filter change. They recommend to oil the rubber gasket, and torque to 13 ft/lb, or 3/4 turn beyond first contact. I'd go with the torque value.

 

Yes, the nature of filters means there's not much difference between expensive ones and cheap ones, though some filters like Napa Gold have one-way valves in them, which is essential when cold starting an old Subaru.

 

Finally... Torque values always get lost in the shuffle. But if you want to make sure you've done everything right, every screw, nut, bolt in the car has a specified tightness. People would take this more seriously if the consequences for not doing so were more memorable.

 

I don't bother with torque values with stuff like the little bolts holding the plastic underpanels, stuff like that. I don't get slavish about it. But yeah, if it's significant and I can get a torque wrench on it, I'll use it.

Cautionary tale: there was a guy here a few years back, used a torque wrench on the spark plug coil hold down bolts. Now these are the smallest bolt on the car, pretty much just a locator bolt. There was a torque value given in inch pounds, maybe 48? Which he read as foot pounds, got the big boy out, snapped the head right off. Now what...

 

yeah... The nuts on the 56 battery posts on the hybrid pack are in inch-pounds. And whenever a shop works on a wheel they will sometimes mention that the torque is too high on my lug nuts, because I like to double and triple check for tightness.

If didn't have a cheap torque wrench from Harbor Freight, I'd probably use it more often. Researched the digital ones but none of the lower priced ones worked in inch pounds only in foot pounds. My friend loaned me his old craftsman torque wrench with metal rod once rather than the click-type. That was better, but eventually I want to go digital.

 

I've had a half inch micrometer (click) style, picked up for under $30 I think, over 30 years back. A few years back I got a similar 3/8", just under $30. And recently got a 1/4", calibrated in inch/pounds, just under $30.

I've checked the 1/2 against the 3/8, and the seemed pretty close. The 1/4 is good for things like throttle body hold-down bolts, and battery bus bar nuts I'd think, though I've yet to do the latter.

With the oil filter, especially if you're the one who put it on, and torqued it, If you've got a long-handled wrench and good/solid oil filter socket, there's no problem.

If you've got the tools and it's still not coming loose, it's very likely due to the last bugger who put it on. Considering it's a consumable (second gen spin-on), maybe oil filter pliers really clamped down on it, a cheater bar and a bit of hammering, might do it. Or very short bursts with an impact, electric or whatever. Little jolts might do it.

 

Had the same problem myself. Oil change place previous owner went too over tightened everything. I would up hammering an undersized Nissan Pathfinder cap wrench on it. Took 30 foot pounds of torque to remove it. Then I had to deal with the oil plug that had a copper washer that was the thickness of 2 sheets of paper and deformed threads from over tightening.

 

With the utmost respect, that is TOTAL BS.

I have replaced numerous engines because the customer used cr@p oil filters that failed.

 

I’m afraid I agree that their can be a big difference in quality, including among different lines in one brand.

I have to reiterate go to Walmart and pick up the Fram Ultra filter for your application of interest and see/feel the difference.

It may be 3 x the price of bulk Toyota filters, but is substantially different. You can feel the extra material in the weight....

 

Weight does NOT equal quality, especially in filters. I would take ANY OEM filter over almost any non-OEM filter for quality any day. There are engineering considerations that even "BITOG" type sites do not/cannot take into account when evaluating filters.

 

Well, I posted pics over on the iQ forums, so I’ll just link the post here:

Oil and Filter Change - Page 4

I must admit after thinking it over the canister already has a metal screen...

 

Pretty good site for OE parts, this is direct to their oil filter deals:

Toyota OEM Oil Filter Case Pack Deals | Conicelli Toyota of Conshohock

 

Can you be more specific? Have you had the used oil analysed from a cheap filter versus an expensive filter?

Does synthetic vs. standard oil change the scenario much?

Or maybe you're just referring to the quality of the components? Here's a video of 5 common oil filter taken apart after 5000 miles?

Can you point out which one is best and why?

 

Here's a very thorough analysis that gives insight of what filter might be a little bit better than the other. And the worst performer in this case was an OEM filter, which blows up that particular claim of yours: The OFFICIAL Oil Filter Testing and Results Thread (4G63T/4B11T) - EvolutionM - Mitsubishi Lancer and Lancer Evolution Community

But still the true test is oil analysis after an oil change on the same vehicle in the same driving conditions and I've just spent the past 45 minutes reconsidering my previous research conclusion that oil filters are so similar that as long as you stay away from the very worst ones, it doesn't make that much of a difference. Looking forward to any additional insight that you may have to offer?

 

I'm interested in this but looks like he ghosted. The filter media and how small a fragment it traps seems like the singular consideration but maybe that's over simplifying.

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