12v battery voltage?

could be, but i doubt they know any more about batteries than their machine tells them

 

Quite a difference between your voltage reading and theirs. The one reason I can see: a freshly driven car has a bit of "surface charge": it reads high, and with an overnight sit that reading'll drop.

Still, if the Pep Boys measured "health" (cranking amps measured vs rated) is good, maybe all it needs is a good charge session. CTEK Multi US 4.3 is my current charger, can't fault it. I've wired in the quick connect, since I'm a frequent flyer, lol.

The Solar BA5 has one verdict which is "good but needs recharge".

 

i think it may be as well. that should help, i would think

 

The car's charging system is good for a battery in good health. But for one that's been partially depleted, either by protracted sitting, or something like a door left open overnight, then a charger is likely needed.

You gotta have all this stuff, lol. Unless you're bisco...

 

Checked ours this morning, just the voltage. It's a bit of a pain using the Solar: it needs to be connected right at the posts, which means around back, take the hatch floor and tray out, and so on. So, just the voltage, the car had a good drive yesterday, sat overnight, ambient temp is 4C. This is an Optima Yellow Top, a bit over 3 years post install. They tend to read a bit higher voltage than conventional, so for what it's worth:


(Connecting at the CTEK quick-connect adapter.)

 

prius charging is very slow. iirc, about 8 hours to charge the 12v. not sure what level that is from though.

 

Full disclosure: I do keep that sucker on life support, every day the car's not driven (which is often), it's hooked up to my automatic charger. Interesting longevity experiment, I get the sense it's protracted non-running time, multiple days, that ages batteries, what with the constant "background" drain.

And again, topped-up AGM's tend to have a bit higher voltage than conventional.

 

do you have a second vehicle, or rarely go anywhere?

 

#2. Dear wife drives more'n me.

 

i don't either. but we do drive 8 miles every morning to go for a walk. after that, she takes the pip for anything within ev range, or else the hycam

 

Recheck the voltage in a day or two, after it's sat overnight, that should scrub off any "surface" charge. Hopefully you're out of the woods.

 

THANK YOU, This video on Utube is extremely good. We now have a simple way of checking 12 Volt health and the converter outputs . In addition I found out that the 12 Battery is a lead acid battery capable of putting out 100 amperes of current. He also mentioned that the 12 Volt battery was responsible for MOST of the Primes operation. We always suspected this was the case, BUT, now we have proof. Thank You Professor John Kelly!
I urge everybody to watch this video!

 

This not only indicates the health of your 12 Volt, but proves that the converter is also doing its job.

 

The implication being that activation of the brake pressurizing system is going to alter the voltage? I would do an A/B test of that, suspect it doesn't make much difference.

 

thanks, please let us know the results!

 

Professor Kelly demos that any and all loads can be monitored and estimated by doing this simple Voltage and converter check. No more guesswork, no more theories based on thin air. For example: Since 2005 we have been discussing what the 12V battery should read ? Many said, if its only 12V its bad. Others said if its only 12.2 its going bad, better buy a new one. All conjecture, nothing ever factual in any opinion. Nobody ever bought up maintaining proper voltage levels and current draws Or the converter and its role. Well now that's all over. Prof Kelly backed all information up with the Toyota Manual Procedures.