Question about brakes

How many miles? At four years old, it may very well not need any parts, just a little TLC.

-Chap

 

Welcome! I just learned that the Rear has drum brakes

 

Parts catalog reference: Figure 47-06, Rear Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder & Backing Plate.

 

First off, thank you for using the correct spelling of Brakes.

 

Hybrids use friction brakes very sparingly, so you may very well not need to replace anything. Squeaking brakes often occur from vibration of the pad against the caliper in certain scenarios. This is why there are either shims or grease or both between the back of the pad and the caliper. Sometimes that anti-squeak stuff gets either dry or deformed and the noise appears. What can be done is re-apply said anti-squeak measures. I use a bit brake/bearing grease (light coat) and that usually does the trick. if the shim needs to be replaced, it can probably be purchased at a parts store or dealer, but may be only available with a new set of pads. The best way is to get down there, take things apart and look. Anything else is just guessing. If brakes on the C are the same as on Gen 2, they are super easy to work on. Just be cautious of the fact that the car can apply brake pressure without your input, even when the car is off (it's a feature, not a bug ). What I do is insert a block of wood or something that will prevent the brake caliper piston from coming out should the car decide to activate the brakes while the pads are out and you are having a look see. I have not personally had the car active brakes while working on them, but I have heard horror stories. In any case, a simple block of wood or what have you between the caliper piston and outer pad support of the caliper should do the trick.

Rear brakes are drums and I have not even looked at mine yet. I think they are designed to last a long time.

Good luck!

 

I've noticed the brakes on our Gen 2 (with drum brakes) squeak when we are backing up, but not when we are moving forward. Is this also what you are finding? I am guessing this might have something to do with the way the car "dives" toward the ground when brakes are applied (i.e. when you are moving forward and apply the brakes the front end dips, when you are moving backward and apply the brakes the rear of the car dips). Since I consider the rear brakes to be supplemental to the front brakes anyway, I am not going to worry about the squeaking unless I find that the emergency brake is no longer able to hold the car on a hill.

 

Toyota USA calls for:

1. Visual brake inspection, every 5000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first.

Except:

2. Full brake inspection, every 30,000 miles or 3 years, whichever comes first.

The latter should entail on the fronts:

Pulling the calipers off the rotors, checking pad thickness, cleaning and relubing all faying points/surfaces, cleaning and relubing the caliper pins, and check of rotor thickness and runout.

And on the rears:

Inspect the shoe thickness drum inside diameter and condition, and relube of the contact points.

You need to use caution due to the car's electronics: disconnect the 12 volt negative cable before starting any disassembly, and when done, before reconnecting, pump the brake pedal multiple times, take up any excess pedal travel.

I don't have Prius c Repair manual info, maybe close to 2nd gen, which similarly has front disc and rear drum setup. Fwiw:

 

I have squeaky struts on the rear of my C also. Also the front struts squeak. At least I think the front struts squeak, may be suspension bushings. Anyway, they have squeaked since 2013 (car is a 2012).

 

Well, I guess everyone ignores this. Doesn't seem like dealerships push it either. Anyway, food for thought:

Bottom line, don't conflate brake pad life with the need to inspect the brakes. If you play by the rules you'll have done 2 or 3 brake inspections before the pads need replacement. And when they do, they'll likely be worn evenly, the calipers and rotors will be in good shape, and it'll be just pads that need replacement.

Or, you can ignore the schedule, and then be scratching your head when the mechanics report you've got a frozen caliper.

Or a rear drum brake that's been dragging because the shoe contact points with the backer plate are completely dry.