2010 possible head gasket

If you repair it NOW, before the gasket goes completely, you'll minimize the damage. The head may not be warped.
Or it is minor and you can shave it by using sand paper on a sheet of glass. But you'll need a calibrated straight edge to check it.
The longer you wait, the more head gasket material gets blown away and the more coolant will get into the cylinder and as was
stated above, you can't compress a liquid, something has to give!

 

pretty sure there's a detailed thread here

 

'new head gasket' @RyanFlorida

 

Also @danlatu has a thread.

He’ll probably chime in as well with support .

 

Have you jacked the engine only up?

I believe that is the trick but haven’t done it myself.

 

There are links to @Ragingfit 's YouTube videos of engine swapping here

Pixel XL ?

 

Yeah for the engine mount watch @Ragingfit 's videos, linked above. It's in a somewhat odd-ball location in the forums, since he was doing the swap on a Prius v, and "technically" it's a "mod", since it a fourth gen engine going in.

I'm not sure you need to remove the EGR, or the exhaust manifold, prior to pulling the engine. @Ragingfit pulls the engine, then notices he's left the exhaust manifold loosely connected. I'd suspect if you only remove the connecting bolts between exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe, leave the EGR installed (just remove the pipe between EGR valve and (removed) intake manifold), it'll all come out.

If you do pull the EGR cooler/valve first, note: in @Ragingfit 's videos he has a royal battle with the lower stud below the EGR cooler. You don't need to remove that stud, just the bolt on the end of it. it's then possible to pull the cooler out and off the stud. You could watch @NutzAboutBolts EGR cleaning video too, pinned in 3rd gen maintenance forum.

First and formost though: I don't think EGR removal is needed as a precursor for engine removal, it can be done after. I think, purely armchair mechanic here...

One more afterthought regarding the EGR: @Ragingfit installs 3rd gen EGR system with 4th engine, and it has NO connection to the engine, basically spans, from the exhaust connection to cooler, to the EGR pipe connection to intake manifold. And it's plenty stiff. If I'm ever removing our EGR again, I may not reinstall the nut on the lower stud, make life a lot easier.

The Repair Manual even says to leave the intake manifold on, but it seems to me it's expedient to remove it first, if only to make more room to maneuver the engine as it comes up and out.

 

Motor mount removal starts around 2:50 of video 6 here:

Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v | PriusChat

Before removal of motor mount (and transaxle connector bolts), he puts a floor jack with some blocking under the oil pan, to support the engine. He uses what looks like a 4x4 on end, to reach up to the pan underside. I'd be inclined to put something atop the 4x4, to spread the load more, just in case, say a square of 2x8, screwed onto the 4x4.

And yeah, no need to disconnect AC lines, going from memory they have some flexible connectors, and once the motor mount is off the lines and compressors are just pulled out of the way.

 

Is this for removal of the cylinder head hold-down bolts:



(PDF of excerpt attached)

IIRC @Georgina Rudkus mentioned some key words in another thread, and when I searched those I ended up on Amazon.com, found this:



Link, which may not show with ad blocker:

Full disclosure: no personal experience, just something rattling around my amazon basket.

 

Just AutoCad musing:


I'm not sure how the 12 mm triple square is defined as "12". If a face-to-face 10 mm (single) hex fits snugly, then I think the right side pic must be the correct size. Then I just reverse engineered a triple square on the left, such that it's point-to-point dimension matched. It's basically a little more "pointy".

 

The can bearings still look clean, but as long as you're there already, you could replace them, seeing that the first one has some form of scouring?