Is the 12v going? Need a 2nd opinion

Oh I was sweating...

 

Lol, so crazy... And again apologies, usually I make the extra effort to advocate for my 12v battery opinions and the one time I got lazy... I learned my lesson. My 12v battery recommendations forged in the fires of wheelchair bound battery expert @Britprius will never slack off again!

 

I bet you're that dude who goes to a party for a friend and complains that everyone is acting so full of themselves and doesn't give enough, let alone get enough attention from, the friend the party was created for...

 

Can get an Optima battery at most Auto parts places... Was about $150-175.

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That's a good price for the Optima, still:

I'd pick the Bosch (if there's one compatible with gen 2) over the Optima, it's specs seem more inline with the OEMs. The Optima has higher CCA, which is overkill, and lower amp hours. I'm not sure what the latter means, but I suspect it means the Optima is more vulnerable to the constant low level parasitic load? Pep Boys is one place that has Bosch.

Full disclosure, I have an Optima right now.

 

You'd be better off trying to use a brick for a battery... Optima are garbage batteries and one of the sales reps who used to be on PriusChat even said that people who return faulty batteries are stupid and they just put a fresh charge on them and sell them as brand new, they don't even test them. Read consumer reviews or Better Business Bureau complaints about Optima. If we had even modest consumer protection laws Optima would be banned from selling their fake batteries in the US.

 

♪ sooome-daaaay ♬ those coooodes ♪ will cooommme ♪

 

The one I got had plastic seals on the posts. So I know it was new in the box.
I'm a year out on mine. I drive 1,000 miles a week, mostly at night so lights are on, AC is usually on.. so HVAC fan but is on..
So far it's working great..
Are there any brands or types that are preferred.
The Optima is supposed to be a rolled AGM battery. Mine is..

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Yes... much, much better ones... See #46 in this discussion for more info...

 

Thanks.. will look I to one when this fails.

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the original benefit touted by elearnaid about the optima was that it didn't mind deep discharges, which typically kill oem batteries.

 

That's only ONE code. Are there others too ??

If not, that likely is BAD news because transmission repairs often cost more than the car is worth.

 

I looked thru all the screenshots quickly and didn't see much info about the status of the electric stator, which is where you need to look for a code like that. Maybe I missed something, as well as don't have much experience looking. But my understanding is that you need to measure all the internal resistances in the stator parts with an expensive milliohm meter to make sure all of them are within 2 millohms of each other. I suspect that's a separate diagnostic test? On the bright side your battery looks great... If I were you and all the additional testing confirms the problem to be the electric motor inside the transmission, I'd swap the engine & transmission from a wrecked low mileage Prius and keep going to 500k miles! Just make sure you keep your hybrid pack charged up one way or another while the engine and transmission gets replaced or you'll have another expensive hassle to worry about.

Oh, you said you have a spare transmission? Sure hope it's a good one and it passes all the tests so you don't put in a bad one.

 

I believe conscientious battery retailers date their batteries, the date they received them, and periodically hook them up to a charger, especially the slow moving stock. Plastic seals on the posts would mean they're not doing that.

That said, batteries on a shelf are pretty stable: it's batteries in cars sitting for weeks on end that start draining, due to the constant low-level voltage requirements.

 

Welp, looking up the codes you've got, I'd agree the P0AA6 is the one to focus on.

Hybrid P0AA6

With a 613 INF code, indicates leakage in the transaxle, or the MG drivers in the inverter. The repair manual directs you to step 18 (2006 edition, anyway) where, with the power off and the service plug pulled (and a wait for capacitors to discharge) you would remove the inverter cover and disconnect all six MG wires, and use a megger to check the resistance from each of the six to body ground. (That would be: body ground, to the just-freed end of each wire, removed from the inverter; you want to be megging the MGs, not the inverter electronics.)

If all six MG phases measure 10 megohms or higher to body ground, then the transaxle is ok and you swap the inverter. If any of the six shows a lower resistance than 10 megohms to body ground, then there's your smoking gun and you swap the tranny.

ABS C1310

This is just a 'repeater' code: the ABS ECU knows the HV ECU has something to tell you.

EMPS C1513

Power steering ECU getting strange results from the steering torque sensor (built into steering column, measures how hard you're turning the wheel). The sensor is actually two separate sensors whose signals the ECU compares, and this code means they are too different for the ECU to trust them. There are workup steps for this where you watch the torque sensor voltages in Techstream, but I would probably postpone this one until after dealing with the HV leak. (In fact, maybe clear it after fixing the HV leak, and see if it comes back when you no longer have stray 500 volt waveforms leaking into your body ground reference.)

TPMS C2124, C2126

Could be your originally registered tire ID 4 is no longer transmitting, and maybe there's another transmitter nearby that the car doesn't recognize as a registered one. (Was one replaced, and not registered?) Again, I'd see what this does after dealing with the HV leak.

HVAC B1421

This one's easy; the sun wasn't shining on the solar sensor when you read the codes. No problem indicated (unless you know the sun was shining on it).

SRS B1660

Airbag ECU isn't convinced it's talking to the AIRBAG ON/OFF light on the passenger side of the dash. There are workup steps. Again, I would recheck after the HV leak is dealt with.

Gateway B1210, B1248, B1271

The Gateway ECU (as its name implies) passes comms between different networks in the car that different ECUs are on.

• B1210 - it lost touch with the Power ECU for more than 10 seconds
• B1248 - it has lost touch with the MFD
• B1271 - it has lost touch with the combination meter

Again, all things I would clear and check again after mopping up the stray MG volts.

-Chap

 

You need to pay attention to the INF code associated with the P0AA6. Yours is 612, whereas the Luscious Garage one is 613. The INF codes narrow down the problem area. 612 is HV battery area; 613 is the transaxle area. So, not really that strange, IMMHO.