Major caution for those who DIY oil change

had you checked the oil level at all since the change?

 

amazing. i don't change my own, but will be interesting to see what others say. i don't recall ever reading this before, thanks for the heads up!

 

Are you using oem filter and gasket?

 

The last time I removed ours the O-ring had (similarly) slipped down to the end flange of the housing. But, I did not lose any oil, it was still at the top mark. I wouldn't conclude that the O-ring migrates up the barrel slowly over time. To me that does not sound plausible. I'd suspect it shifted right away, during install, did not leak at first, but eventually failed to seal.

That was back in April, and it's got me cautious, checking the oil level frequently. So far it's not budged. I suspect/hope it was a one off, but yeah, a cautionary tale. Maybe this is one factor in Toyota going back to cannister style oil filter.

Yes, this sounds like good advice. I'll do this next time. I think too, it's good to ensure the cylinder it screws into is well lubed, maybe wiped out and a little fresh oil applied. And as you install it, take it real slow and steady just as the O-ring goes in.

The O-ring seems like the weak link in this design. I'm not sure why they'd go with something so finicky: could'nt they just as readily use an end gasket. I'd speculate they tried that, and it had failures.

Again, maybe this is why they threw in the towel, went back to cannister style, mid-2017 model year.

Recall time...?

 

I changed the oil in our ‘12 v at the end of May. One thing I remember is the instruction to lubricate the gasket with oil before placing it onto the cap and into the groove, and then lubricating the gasket again after getting it into the groove. I will verify this double lubrication when I get the chance/home.

The advice to lubricate the threads is to me not applicable. The reason being that the gasket will not pass over any threads on it’s way to it’s final position when the cap is completely in. Designing it as such would subject the gasket to the sharp edges of the threads and could easily damage it. It only passes/rubs against the smooth portion of the housing.

I do remember slowly turning the filter back in, and torquing in place with a torque wrench. I advise anyone to do the same. On a “good” day I may be like Superman in tightening it hand tight, on a “bad” day I may end up loose. The instructions also note to start the car AND check for leaks before buttoning the bottom up. I am guilty of not doing this, but I’m guessing we should....

 

I just had my oil changed at the dealer. I wonder how many times that has happened with their oil jockeys? But at least they are responsible for any repairs. I better check the level twice a week.

I think Toyota recently went back to the spin-on oil filter, for the 2018 models?

 

This is great info, thanks!. This is partially why I like buying my car new, because I know the complete history of the car but this one is a commuter that's getting driven into the ground at 50K a year. I got under mine to change the oil for the first time ~50k I think, and saw that the housing had been beat up, pieces missing, and not sure it was removable with the conventional method lol. So I took it to the dealer that sold the car to me and told them what I found. I was careful not to touch any thing so you could see the cover had been on there for a while and that I did not do it and they were the last ones to change the oil. So they replaced it for free. Now I know to be extra careful when it's my turn.

About running the engine out of oil, on it's way to running out, running low generally just results in hotter than normal oil which I'm sure didn't hurt a thing given it had to be a short time. Running out while under light to moderate load and rpm to the point the pressure light (not level) came on is not to be taken lightly. I hate saying this because you can't change anything, but I would be diligent in listening for a change in noise levels. I've seen them seem fine for a thousand or so miles and then end up with a rod knock, oil burning, or a flat cam but that was with a flat tappet cam, pretty unlikely in the Prius due to a lack of oil. Nothing to change, no additives that are going to help. If it makes it to a year with no issues I would say you're home free. I've done a lot of stupid things when I was young and that includes purposely destroying engines. At idle without load, and without oil, they will go a very long time. But once load is applied and rpms are raised, it takes very, very little time to do damage. Just 1 second without oil at 2,000rpm is 33 revolutions of the engine and 16 of those power strokes, pounding out the rod bearings. How far round about did you drive from the time the light went on? Going to check my oil as soon as I get off of work now and probably every time I put gas in it. Good luck with it, hopefully it all goes well and you can tell me I was full of crap.

 

When reinstalling the filter, look for a groove in the receiving threads, and also in the threads of the filter cap. The filter cap grooves are to be oriented 90 degrees counter clockwise from the groove in the housing. Instructions also note not to remove the metal clip.

Engine is to be started in inspection mode for leak check.

 

unfortunately, prius low oil pressure warning light does not come on until damage is done.

 

How much oil would actually drip onto the ground? Is some of the oil trapped in the pan that covers the bottom of the car? I sure hope the dealer mechanics get it right. (So far, they have with my car.) All owners should be reminded to more frequently check their oil -- especially during the first few weeks after all oil changes.

 

There's a conversion to canister kit. It's not trivial to do though. Haven't got a link at the moment.

Still, think I will just be vigilant.

 

Something here:

Oil Filter Conversion | PriusChat

There's a comment:

Suggestion:
You should have a parts listing somewhere between steps 2 and 3. Granted the picture shows the parts but some of those part numbers are hard to read.



^ I'd concur, it'd be nice to see an itemized shopping list, a "bill of material". Not to mention cost for all this. Maybe I'll ferret it out, reading the text and referring to the pictures.

Addendum: the parts numbers are in there, just below the picture with all the parts, in small text. Here's a summary from that site:

Part numbers:

Bracket- 15609-0T060
O-rings- 96723-24020 (2 req'd.)
Union- 90904-04006
Filter- 90915-YZZF2

And looking up those part numbers on McGeorge Toyota, more succinct descriptions and their prices:

Filter Housing p/n: 15609-0T060 ($75.43)
Filter Housing O-Ring p/n: 96723-24020 ($2.36) (2 req'd.)
Oil Filter Adapter p/n: 90904-04006 ($11.00)
Oil Filter p/n: 90915-YZZF2 ($3.75)

Total cost comes to: $94.90.

 

You should check the fluids at every fill up.

 

But very few car owners do. And I would guess that about 75% of Priuschat members don't even do it.

I know friends and coworkers that have never checked their air pressure or oil level. They just wait and let the oil change guys do it. But you can't even trust those guys to get it right, or they lie.

 

At prius meet ups, I practice that all the time. Some even said it won't get any cleaner than that, even wipe the inside of the filter it dry as possible and the threads.