2010 Prius just blew headgasket. Need advice

For $2800, you can get another engine with less miles on it. This is a bummer, this is definitely a weakness in the gen 3 cars, multiple reports of head gasket failures.

Have you ever done any maintenance on the cooling system?

I would put in another engine vs selling it, but that's just me. But before I do anything, I would bring it to Toyota for a second opinion and see if this is just an EGR failure that's covered by an extended warranty.

 

What codes did it display? Was it consuming coolant? What did the oil look like?

 

don't feel too bad, that happened to my ford windstar at 89,000. $1,500. back in the day.

 

Is coolant level dropping in the reservoir? Is that a conclusive and always present symptom, with failed head gasket? Not sure.

 

I'm experiencing the same issue. I have a 2010 prius with 167K miles and got code p302, cylinder 2 misfire. Changed the spark plugs and coils. Replaced water pump about 4 months ago and now coolant level dropped. Don't know what other steps to take without spending a lot of money. Any advice?

 

Have you cleaned the egr circuit? Does your Prius consume oil?

 

I have not cleaned out the EGR circuit. Not sure what that is but I can ask mechanic or google. Yes, my prius consumes a lot of oil. Sometimes i'll have to add within a week or two because the oil is so low upon checking. Autozone suggested changing the spark lug in cyclinder 2 which i think i will do along with the ERG circuit cleaning. Hopefully it's not the head gasket. Car runs fine other than when i start it up and its cold.

 

Unfortunately, it is probably too late for EGR cleaning at this point. It is known that the EGR cooler can get plugged...and the EGR circuit can also 'gum up' other components like the intake manifold. The theory is this can lead to larger issues..possibly head gasket failure.

The 'solution' quite a few of us here have been doing is :

- Clean the intake manifold.
- Clean the EGR ( exhaust gas recirculation ) cooler and related components.
- Install an oil catch can.

Here is a thread on the catch can if interested. Also do a search on 'EGR cleaning'

Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock! | PriusChat

 

I would think it's never too late, but yeah: that's a lot of miles, probably pistons pretty gummed up.

 

With the oil consumption levels reported and a blown head gasket, I’d source a new engine and before installing it, clean the egr system and intake out.

Since @Hypemasta is in the city of angels, I’d check with either @sfv41901 or @Avi's Advanced Automotive for the engine swap.

Good luck with your decision .

 

A plugged EGR system or failed water pump is what usually overheats a Prius engine. The consensus is it's one or a combination of overheated engine and knocking that leads to most of the head gasket failures. Preventative maintenance of the EGR system and PCV system via EGR system purging and PCV catch can should prevent these problems.

Make sure it's oil burning and not oil leaking.

Another consensus is that oil burning may aggravate the plugging of the EGR cooler. If you were able to bring your oil consumption way down, and there was no coolant loss, these would be good reasons to keep the engine and correct the PCV and EGR problems. I believe @Raytheeagle lowered his oil consumption by performing piston soaks. Also moving up a couple of grades to a 0W-40 or 5W-40 synthetic should help.

 

No piston soaks per se.

What I do every oil change (since 120 k miles now at 180) is perform a BG Products EPR flush with the oil to be changed then with the fresh oil add BG Products Extended Life moa .

I have clubbed up to 5w-30 full synthetic and next round at 190 k miles will try out 0w-40 (@m.wynn suggestion) Euro formulation versus the Dexos blends.

I am at a quart every 5k miles at present. I used redline previously but since the consumption is still consuming 2 quarts, I went with Castrol Edge this round and save about $25.

Peer pressure with the promise of another data point.

 

The Mobil1 0w-40 is a great oil. It's in since this past oil change and I haven't noticed a reduction in fuel economy.

 

I’ve not seen any mpg declines either with 5w-30.

I know @orenji advocates for the 0w-40.

I’ll be using Pennzoil pure platinum when I go for the 0w-40.

Probably around thanksgiving .

 

Just went down the rabbit hole when searching about 0w-40...yikes! So why is 0w-40 recommended? I'm always a bit leery of using a higher weight oil during our MN winters without really researching it first. While down the rabbit hole I did see some discussion of 0w-40 'flowing better' than lower weight 0w-XX oil of the same brand ( Mobil 1 ). ....Confusing to say the least.

 

I’m not going to be the best explainer, but I’ll try to fill in the gaps until or resident oil folks that are tagged in this thread chime in .

0w means that in the cold it will have 0 for viscosity.

The 0w-40 is a euro formulation so the additive pack is different than our typical Dexos additive packs. This formulation is less focused on meeting artificial US legislation.

0w-40 is the oil of choice for the luxury German cars, particularly on their high end “sport” models.

@Mendel Leisk will be along with a great screen shot from Australia that shows the temps at which the oil is good, so compare there for clarity.

But clubbing up if in a consumption state is a way to go.

 

Hah, crikey!

When considering alternatives either 5W20 or 5W30 come to mind, the first because it's mentioned as an alternative in the 3rd gen manual, the second because it was the second gen spec'd oil. Not brilliant, all I got.

 

To add on, an alternate the dealer closest to my house offers to 0w-20 is 5w-30.

The funny thing is that it is in bottles and is purchased from the local auto parts stores in the area.

When I heard that said to another customer as I was in there picking up parts and they were charging $50 for the bottles, I almost said aloud: Run Away.

But the parts counter guy cut me a break on the 2 gallons of SLLC is was picking up ($22 per gallon versus the $35 listed), so I kept that comment to myself.

 

Yeah I was getting bulk Toyo 0W20 for $4.50 per litre, at dealership, it jumped to about $5.60 last time. It could be a mixup though, or the norm, not sure. Still pretty cheap.