Alright, so I got these results from a car today. I tried to perform the predictive HV battery failure test. This is what I did... I want to know if it looks like I did everything correctly based on this list and some results pictures. Also if the battery looks good. My rudimentary/elementary Techstream knowledge leads me to believe it is in pretty good shape. The steps I took in really prescriptive order: 1) Drove it around a bit to get the engine warmed up. 2) Parked the car 3) Turned my Techstream laptop on. 4) Opened Techstream. 5) Connected my VCI to my laptop 6) Connected the VCI to the OBD2 port on the Prius 7) Turned Prius to IG-ON by hitting the power button until it was amber-colored 8) Hit the Connect button on the Techstream application to connect the computer with the Prius 9) Selected the Smart Key option once the vehicle was recognized and hit the next button 10) The system select screen comes up in Techstream, I had all systems selected and clicked the "health check" button 11) Waited patiently while it checked everything 12) Health check screen popped up. I double clicked the HV battery system under the list of systems (I THINK this is what happened next) 13) Set Prius into READY mode 14) Fumbled around like a doofus trying to get Prius into reverse 15) Waited for internal combustion engine to stop running 16) Pressed record/trigger button in Techstream on laptop 17) Applied brake and gas simultaneously for about 6-7 minutes, ignoring the repeated beeping. 18) At the end of five minutes, ICE had yet to turn on, so I saved that information and quickly pressed record again. Once the ICE kicked on, I stopped the second recording. This is what I gather from all of that (assuming I did everything correctly) A) That the battery is in pretty good shape as the highest difference I spotted among the min block voltage and max block voltage was 0.13v (which seems REALLY low, which is making me think that I did something wrong). The battery has about 90k miles on it. B) The 12v battery started the test pretty low at a SoC around 50% and it would be the first thing I replaced due to a c2318 trouble code. It is not a particularly surprising code as the woman told me that she had driven the car about 300 miles in the last 7ish months. It also tossed out that b1421 that everyone says is silly and to ignore because I ran the test at dusk. C) Per Art's Automotive predictive battery failure test.... it's a rather good thing that it took about.... 5 and a half minutes of brake+gas for the ICE to kick on. Any thoughts? How do these test results look to more seasoned eyeballs?
I figure it out, must be fully depressed. The one dip you see is when I re-position my foot and it moved back a little bit. Total time before engine started was 10.5 mins give or take. Mileage is 314,400 on original HV battery. Figure let you compare against another one.
Good work...I just got Techstream so you're ahead of me. I did not realize we could do that test, but I did look at the HV battery screen...did not see any specific concern.
OP, in your initial screen shot the Max & Min looks great. You have a healthy HV Battery and Temps are good as well. Come to the Gen1 sub-site ( Gen 2) and we talk in depth about the TIS. J BTW, you can customize the tabs to just show what you want to see. SOC, MIN, MAX, TEMPs
I'm confused. The battery discharges while you step on the gas activating the engine? Your picture says the engine isn't running....
You are right, it is a while since I did it. You have to let the brake pedal off to do this. You can chock the wheels for added safety, and you need to also hold the car with the parking brake, then let the foot brake off and then add a bit of pressure on the accelerator, steady as she goes. If the car moves reset the park brake firmer. You don't need to press the accelerator a lot, just enough to get 10-15 Amps discharge current.
