Battery issues with 50% loss after 2 years

But what do you factor for charging 'losses'?
I guess since both are PHEV's you have a consistent 'empty' starting point. (You can't do that with a BEV.. unless it's on a flatbed truck )

Also how do you factor TMS power consumption while the charge cycle is happening?
One of your cars has a freon based TMS to maintain the pack at the happy temp range.
The other gently wafts cabin air over the cells.

Your TMS mostly cools the pack, but in some climates the TMS is needed to warm the pack.

 

Actually I don't except as a curious metric. I have to pay for those overhead kWh so EVSE is my primary metric. I understand that others are more interested in the battery-to-motor metrics but I'm not one beyond the technical aspects of making the metric.

Bob Wilson

ps. Another data point:

• 5.40 kWh = 28.1 / 5.2
• 5.62 kWh = 5.40 * 104%

 

This is true if you are calculating Total Cost of Ownership. And people should!

But we are talking about Battery Degradation here.
Plotting that requires you to use whatever method available. Charging data is not the ideal method.
And of course, the PHEV with only a fan for TMS wins in this metric.

And TCO at the EVSE changes seasonally for PHEV and BEV owners when the car has a fully functional TMS.

 

So far I have had mine for around 18 months and so far so good here

 

that's good news. the most substantial losses usually come in the first two years.

 

Welcome back! It's been a long time since hearing from you. I remember your saga when you first got your Prime with the leaky rear hatch which if I remember correctly you discovered when you took it to a car wash for the first time. From what I remember they finally removed the rear window and resealed it. No leaks since?

 

If my old 2013 PiP that I ran up 189k is any indication, I'd say you'd hit 250k pretty easily. Maybe my PiP ran on some unicorn farts, because I really didn't need to do anything outside of routine maintenance. Toyota Prepaid Maintenance the first year, then just oil changes from year 2-5, replaced the little battery once and... that's about it. Sold it before I needed to replace shocks which ruined my months old new tires, a major tune up. Pretty sure I could've hit 300k without much issue, but it's Prime time now baby. Gonna be another 5yrs of unicorn farting!

 

Hey! awesome memory that was a heck of a saga! lol
Yeah, thankfully no problems since the window has been resealed and has stayed dry ever since

 

Hi all. 2017 Prime owner here. Picked up my Prime back in early December of 2016. One of the earlier owners. I have now owned my Prime for nearly 20 months and have put 63,000 miles on her. EV battery has been charged countless number of times now, probably at least 2-3 times a day with both 240 level 2 charging and the ICE charging while driving. I get about 20-22 mi. EV range on a full charge, although the indicator will show 25.6 - 30.3 mi. range when charged. So I'm at about 12% to 20% loss after putting nearly 5 years worth of driving on my Prime.

 

I would not use the Toyota guess-o-meter as anything other than a bit of interesting information as to how long you have left before you run out of EV (and only then when it gets close to 0). That's just a computer prediction based on historical driving tendencies pumped through some internal heuristics. It has absolutely no bearing on the real world excepting if you drive exactly the same route and use exactly the same breaking and throttle positions over and over again.

to see if you're having a problem you'll need information about internal cell resistance, temperature, etc. you'll need an odb reader and take a bunch of data points to see if the battery really degraded or not.

 

I calculated this roughly yesterday for my car based off the 5.8 miles per kWh reading it showed. I have about 5.5 kWh of capacity left in my battery after 15k miles with a less than 50% ev driving ratio. I have recently been charging in Davis, CA which has hit over 100° consistently. I’m not sure if the original capacity of this battery is 6.3 or 5.5.

 

Nissan quietly raised their traction pack price to a whopping $8,000 - not giving anyone a chance to take advantage before the price gouge. Figure that out on a cost per kilowatt-hour for 21kWh ... ouch.
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