Put a couple pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 or 2x10 etc in front of the ramp to help lift the front of the car just a bit (1.5 inches). This usually gave me enough clearance. Then I bought these at Wally World. They have a longer, gentler slope and work perfect on my 2007 and 2005. RhinoGear 11909ABMI RhinoRamps Vehicle Ramp - Pair (12,000lb. GVW Capacity) - Walmart.com
When I get home this evening, I'll measure the rise/run and post it. That way, anyone can do some quick measurements to see if they'll work for their model car.
I’ve never liked ramps from the standpoint of them sliding out from under the wheel as you try to go up. These were the old school stamped metal ones a smooth garage floor. The slope is just too steep. Rear wheel drive is also part of that issue because no torque is being applied to the front wheels, so the wheel rolls backwards as the ramp shoots forward. If the ramp transition was a foot longer it would make big improvement. I’m surprised longer transition ramps aren’t more common given the low clearance and long front over hang of many cars in the last 20 years. iPhone X ?
Ramps make me nervous, haven't used them in over 30 years. Floor jack is more controlled, versatile. Especially inside a garage, floor jacks are too "exciting". With floor jack, you don't need to start the car, just so much more versatile. I have a cheapy 3 ton jack ($69 on Boxing Day sale), 3 ton and 6 ton jack stands (4 of each), heavy rubber wheel chocks (4). Also, my ace in the hole is squat section of tree trunk, about 13" diameter by 13" long: I push that in under a main cross beam, just aft of the engine bay, before crawling under to do oil changes.
You need shallow ramps that give a lower lift, but adequate height so you can slide under the vehicle from the front and reach the oil plug and the filter. If you warm up the oil by driving a bit it helps the flow while draining and helps top up the HV battery. Put the Prius in EV mode and crawl slowly up the ramp with total control and the greatest of ease. At the top of the ramp put the car in Park and set the emergency brake. Shut it down, complete the work and exit in EV mode again. I add 3 litres of oil before coming down the ramp, just in case the engine should start itself, never know with these cars. Then start up the ICE to check for filter leaks, shut it down and top up the oil as required. A nice boring servicing, not a Daryl F Zanuck production but I am too old for those any longer.
We probably arrive at the same thing, but I let it drain well, button everything up, pour in the measured amount, as spec'd, call it done. I don't even check the dipstick till a day or two later, since it's so clear, and tends to be a little weird till it's settled down. This puts it just at the underside of the top mark, when I do check.
Photos and measurements included: The portion of the ramp that the car is driven up is ~20.25" long and 6.25" high (hypotenuse is ~22") the flat portion the tire will sit on is ~14 inches long. I placed the Rhinoramp and a yellow steel ramp next to each other where the top of the ramps are aligned with each other. The Rhino has about 2.5" more ramp length and is about 2.75" less in overall height, but only about 1.25" less for actual tire height since they don't have that lip along the edge. It's that strengthening lip that causes the interference.
I drove my Gen2 Touring up on my buddy's 8000lb-rated Rhino ramps with no scraping. Just a datapoint.