12 Volt for 16 Prius 2

The first bullet is interesting in particular: I wonder if that means some sort of built-in memory saver? Maybe just the radio? There's also window auto-up that needs resetting. And I've notice an odd rev-up at the next one or two start-ups, post battery disconnect.

 

My driveway is not an airport runway!

Does the calibration start when the speed reaches 22 mph without the steering wheel being moved?

 

interesting they don't mention trip memory.

 

I use a second battery to hold the settings. An "alarm system" gel cell battery is inexpensive ($10-20) and small enough to carry easily. I'll bet even a NMh AA pack would work, but you need 10 cells, and I haven't seen a 10 cell plastic holder.

Eliminates all that resetting stuff.

I clip it on the "boost point" on the GII and GIII. On the GIV you can just clip it to the battery connectors under the hood, but it's a good idea to use 1-2 metre leads to keep the batteries apart, reduce current spikes, and generally keep things not too crowded near the car battery. For the leads I use Mueller solid copper clips, the smaller ones electronics used to use in the "dark ages" work just fine.

In fact my "boost cable" has the small ones for the Prius end and larger ones on the boost car end. #10 finely stranded cable of course. The current to put a Prius in "ready" is quite low compared to old tech cars. I guess when I finally get a new Prius I'll have to put the larger ones on both ends.

 

GM pulled the same nonsense with the volt and cobalt, I just modded the battery area and put one of these in with a drilled in vent tube.

I thought it worth saving $100+ to have a more robust and cheaper battery.

 

120 seconds? I'm still looking for my wrench at that point.

 

Yes, that’s what the Repair Manual says: “After the power switch is turned off, the radio and display receiver assembly [or navigation receiver assembly] records various types of memory and settings. As a result, after turning the power switch off, make sure to wait at least 120 seconds before disconnecting the cable from the negative (–) auxiliary battery terminal.”

The Repair Manual doesn’t give any more information. After reconnecting the battery on my car, I had to make several left and right turns before driving at that speed, and I haven’t noticed any problems.

 

Yes, it’s fine if the replacement battery has a higher capacity, as long as it physically fits and can be bolted down properly. Just out of curiosity, did the AutoZone/DuraLast one not work?

 

I purchased my truestart H4, 12-volt battery 13 months ago from toyota.. had them install it...84-month battery.. and it died out last night.. taking n2 toyota dealership this morning ... hopefully, the replacement won’t cost n e thing. Is there a mileage component to the warranty????

 

No, but there is proration after 24 months—which wouldn’t apply in your case, of course.

 

If someone is looking for a higher capacity battery, the XS Power D5100R KINDA fits. It is too long for the tray by maybe half an inch but I just dremeled the side of the tray and was able to get it installed. Plus, my radiator brace keeps it from moving around which is a plus (started to peel away at the gold tape). No clearance issues with the hood. In fact, it's lower than my strut brace.

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Anyone else using non-OEM batteries in Gen4 or Prime?

@jteran5 how is your battery working out? Can you tell me more about what you had to use the dremel on?

 

I haven't had any issues with the battery. The thing I, that it's a little too tall and leaves a small gap between the hood and the bumper. Never really noticed it until I was looking at some pics. Because of the angle of the hood th edge of the battery protrudes a little. I either have to angle it somehow or lower it a tad. I havent rewlly had the chance to play around with it. The negative terminal just clamps on and not sure if I could loosen the cable to get a little slack so I can tilt the battery down towards the positive side (by raising the negative side of the battery a little higher

As for what had to be dremeled : I just had to cut the battery tray as the battery was too long to sit inside it. So I had to remove one of the sides of the tray.

Pic below shows how everything slopes down towards the nose while my battery goes straight across. Just need to tilt forward a tad and it will be perfect

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Another good option would be XSPower D1200. Not as beefy as the 5100R but better than stock. Current price seems to be around 240 so right around OEM pricing. If I can get my 5100R to fit better, I might swap to the smaller battery. Should fit without any issues inside the stock battery tray

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Try Pep Boys which is where I got mine last year, and it was about $125 OTD.