2017 Prius C Two Backup Camera

I have the same head unit in my 2016 Prius C One. I believe the camera connections on this model are in the 24-pin connector. There's a seller on Amazon who has a (supposedly) plug and play kit, but it involves unplugging the factory connector, and I don't know what that would do, considering there are 3 or 4 wires in it already.
I look forward to your write-up.

 

I look forward to your write-up because this is on my to-do list.

 

I just ordered a kit for my 2016 Prius C One. It is supposed to be completely plug and play. The seller on Amazon said the existing 24-pin plug has some wires for the backup camera,so you unplug that connector and plug in the kit in its place. I'll have it in two days and as soon as I install it I'll report back.
For 2015-2017 it is
PYvideo Backup Camera Kit for TOYOTA Prius (2015-up), Corolla (2014-up), Scion(2016-up) and
For 2012-2014 the same seller has a plug and play setup for yhe 16-pin connector. It’s
PYvideo Rear Backup Camera Kit for Toyota Camry, Corolla, Prius, Rav4 and more (2012, 2013, 2014) - (Color: Black)
The reviews on Amazon were pretty good for the late model one, and better for the early one.

 

I installed the backup camera kit from PYvideo for 2015-2017 models. It was technically simple, but a real PITA. Some of the issues were totally my own fault.

Pay special attention to bolded items!

When fishing wires, a straightened wire clothes hanger and flexible metal tape measure help. Bend a tight loop in the end of the hanger wire, and use a narrow measuring tape. Too narrow is too floppy, and the wide ones aren't flexible enough. Use electrical tape to hold your cable/wires to the fishing tool and to prevent the tool and wires from snagging other wires, etc. Always push the fishing tool FROM the destination end, them pull the wire to where you want it. Be very cautious about snagging other wires.

Pry the plastic trim from the radio, unplug the hazard light connector. Use a magnetic Phillips-head screwdriver or an 8 mm socket with a 6" extension to remove the 4 bolts holding the radio. Pull the radio partially out & let in hang, lay it on a rag or small towel to protect the dash, radio face, and shifter knob. There are enough wires to support the radio without over-stressing the connectors.

Before installing, hook everything up sitting in the car and test the camera. You don't need to crimp or solder the power wire now, just twist it together.

I removed some plastic panels: left corner of back seat, left passenger door sill, C-pillar cover, drivers door sill, kick panel left of driver/in front of door, B-pillar cover, I removed the "carpet" covered panel that covers the inside of the rear hatch, loosened the "carpet" on the left side of the cargo area, and loosened the back left corner of the headliner. From inside I removed the nuts holding the plastic cover over the license plate, and unplugged the wires so I could pull the light/latch/cover assembly off.

(1) You'll need to drill a hole through the plastic hood left of the left license plate light. The size depends on the camera you get. If my picture posts you might see the outline Toyota left to show where the camera goes. If your camera kit doesn't include a seal/pad to go between the camera and car, I suggest you find something like the thick double-sided mounting pads in 3M Command cable mounting kits, or go into a good hardware store and talk to a clerk about what you are doing.

(2) When drilling the hole to get the cable through the tailgate drill very slowly so the bit doesn't catch and tear the edge of the hole. I must have been working too fast, the bit started to tear out the metal. This is VERY thin sheet metal and it's slow work filing down the sharp metal points you might cause. I started with a 5/16" bit and re-drilled to 3/8" . That size worked out great because I had a rubber grommet that fit perfectly to keep the wire from rubbing on a sharp edge for the next 10+ years.

(3) After working the wire through the rubber sleeve between hatch and car, go directly toward the left side, then down. You can pass it under some other wires, then forward below the seatbelt retractor and under another wire. Use small wire ties or tape to secure the camera cable so it can't sag or shift. This will make sure it can't vibrate against sharp edges over time or get rubbed/tangled by the seatbelt mechanism.

(4) Follow the large wire bundle to the front, secure it inside any wire clips, use cable ties frequently.

(5) Go up between ECM and left side of car, as high as possible. Cross to radio cavity, enter at back of cavity, against the firewall. Make connections according to the instructions in your kit, then tie the excess cable into a bundle and fasten it out of the way.

(6) Reinstall the radio and test the camera again, then close everything back up. Try to work in reverse order, make sure to overlap panels correctly. If in doubt, open the right-side doors and see how things are positioned.

TL,DR: You can also take the kit to a car audio shop and pay about $65 per hour, I think a pro can do it in 2 to 3 hours.

 

Hi! I installed two kits - one was for C 2016 trim 2, and another for C 2017 trim 3. Both had the same connectors and wiring (when taking off CU be careful, don't drop the screws inside the cabin). The hardest part was to fish the wire through the hatch rubber. I haven't drill the hole in the metal door, only in the plastic, I ran the wire through license plate hole, the plastic cap has a notch deep enough to let the wire through.

Here is the link to the seller.

 

Tagging post here as I'm going to be doing this next.

 

Will be doing to my 2016 Prius C Two in the next month. Will report when done.