on a ten year old, hundred and fifty thousand mile car? you should have spent some time here first. issues out the wazoo.
By the way how many water pump this car has? 2? Engine metal pump and one plastic behind the driver's headlight?
If anyone knows: When the car is running and you open the inverter coolan reservoir..what happens. I opened it and fluid stays flat. If that pump is working properly is it suppose to be moving inside? Thanks
Thanks. Yes if its bad pump is a little bit on the good side as pump isnt expensive. I am going to order new one. Online genuine units are around $60 with hundreds sold with no bad review. Dealers i called ask for $130-156. Just to make sure is the part number 04000-32528 G9020-47031
Meanwhile while i wait for the pump i replaced front brakes and it looks like those may be the factory pads
Guys i changed the pump and bled the system. Thr triangle of death dissapeared but the brake ligt ABS and VSC and the (!) lights are on as well as brake sign in red. I did chamge the front brakes and the rear. Is there anything i should do? Thanks
Yes i did 200 miles and checked constantly for level of the coolant. Raytheeagle: I only have profrssional VAG com for Audis and VW but i will probably go to advance auto parts for the codes. I think they should do it
Know some of these codes are more difficult to read . You may need Techstream to read them all and understand the underlying issue. @ericbecky is in Madison and not too far away. He doesn’t mind troubleshooting over the phone. Good luck and keep us posted .
Ok so i went on amazon and bough supposably good techstream cable with software which you probably know is hard to get it going. Once i figure it i will see the codes I believe the whole brake system doesnt function well ever since i changed the brakes. When i push the pedal the car stops very well and sharp but when i am almost stopped and try to release the pedal the brales are chirpy and clicky from front wheel. Have seen this in the prius a few years ago and car stopps too sharp. I think when i have replaced the rear shoes i let some air in the system becaise the finiky rear cilynder got stuck for the shoe and by a mistake i pulled out the whole left piston but then safely put it back. It wasnt and isnt leaking now but to me its vwry bad drum design comparing to what its could be with rotors. I think i might need some expert help as the prius isnt a bite for me yet and i couldnt believe its more complicated that the Audis i drive. Does anyone know someone in Chicago who could check my car without being dealer like and replace everything? Thanks
Are the pins on the front disk brake caliper pins lube? If looking for a hybrid expert, @ericbecky is a couple of hours away in Madison . He’s usually willing to help. Good luck and keep us posted .
Thanks. I will contact him but i dont think i can make it to Madison. Thanks again My brakes are not squeking. I changed them as good as it gets with best paste. I put new pin boots and polished the pins. Put ne shims as well. So i guess abs is not working. I purpously stepped on the brakes really strong and tires locked. And when i drove the car on snow (few days before those lights all came on) abs and traction was functioning well. My theory is since this water pump light brought all lights they need to be reset in order to function. So when i drive in normal traffic brakes hold more than they need. So i push the pedal slightly. Car comes to full stop and at the last moment is too sharp. Wasnt like this before. I feel like calipers hold or releave all the way thats why the are clicking and cracking like sound when they release. Have had that on the old prius. Also now when i press the brake pedal in normal conditions i dont hear the alien UFO landing noise from the battery charging system. Only the conventional brakes stop the car. Also think this is result of that light I bough best techstream on amazon I could and their support cannot for 2 days figure out how to make it work. Have 64 bit Windows 10 which they said they will make it work and it works on other users. Otherwise iys made for Windows 7 or XP? Thats some ancient systems I am a little bit dissapointed again how bad engineering from Toyota. And i love this thing so much for its dependability and reliability. If funny how i can fix my S8 nightmares and cant even bleed the brakes on Toyota. I will pay for someone from Chicago to help me out woth his/her techstream. I do not step inside any service shop. Thank you
Ok so thats what I did. Ericbecky was great guy and helped me with information. He also showed me which Techstream to buy. I bought it but meanwhile I also bough Under $30 techstream software which they couldn't make work on my laptop. I found and purchased locally DELL laptop with 32bit Windows 7.. And yesssss They made the cable connect for just a few minutes, so now I will have the crap cable i got and the Nano VCX when it comes. I was able to open and test various components. I tested the HV battery and it looks like all blocks are above 15.4 to 15.9 V each, no exceptions while battery was at 51% overall charge. Great feeling I also was not hearing the battery fan work at all so I found I can do test on it., I did all 6 speeds and it ran perfect, but I guess its still too cold for the fan to be working. My problem: I did reset the brake lights and I drove the car. in like 2 brake presses the lights came on again accompanished by sharper brakes and when those lights come on I stop hearing the regenerative brake noise. So now I know I will have to do brake bleeding as when I was changing the brakes I wanted to check the boots of the rear left wheel and I shouldnt have done it... I opened it fully and fluid came out and AIR in. I closed it succesfully, no leak for the week and more I drove the car but there is obviously air in the system. Also As i press the brakes for normal to moderate stopping from lets say 30 mph to 0 I hear descending clicking noise from rear.... No idea what is it but I hope it goes away after the bleeding procedure How to do it? I read a topic with 1 ohm resistor or wire that you need to connect in the OBD2. But I have the techstream working so thats what I am going to do. Only question is exactly how: I can see this Which one should be first, which one is the main one, as I have rear there is up to 1 gallon of DOT 3 fluid... wow Thanks in advance
Yes, the codes reset and then when the brake is used they come back again due to the air in the valves I assume I forgot what codes are they, but will check them tomorrow. V.12 10 019 is the version I have.
Does someone know a the proper procedure to bleed the brakes. The code i have is 1344 This is LR wheel cylinder. This is the cylinder i pulled out by mistake. As i wrote before i had some fluid out after i pulled out the left pushing part. I put it back in place and no leaks after that but i let air in the system. I read here that the clearance should be adjusted for that specific code to stop coming back. I couldnt bleed the brakes as when i go on the techstream it shows me an error saying some of the requirements are not met... Should i replace the cylinder?
