What services you need and what you don't

The 10A position is correct. When measuring current, if you don't know how much current the circuit is going to require, always start with the highest current position first, then move down to a lower position if needed to obtain a good reading.

 

Thanks again to @Patrick Wong and @jreed for his youtube video. I was able to successfully drain & fill the ICE coolant today. I screwed up a few times, so here are my lessons learned for others to benefit from:

1. Be careful of the screw headed bolts holding some of the plastic undercarriage car shield in, I broke two very rusty bolt heads off. In hindsight maybe I should have used my battery powered impact driver for less angled torque on the bolt heads instead of a traditional hand socket wrench. Luckily there are enough other fasteners down there to keep the black plastic secured when I connected everything back together.
2. I initially couldn't get enough leverage using a long hex key to open the bleeder valve, I tried to use a hex bit but did not have an appropriate extension and ended up dropping the bit down into the engine compartment. I finally just wised up and put the closed side of a box wrench on the hex key and cracked it open. It took me longer to find the damn hex bit after I was "done" than the job itself did.
   
3. Once I got the bleeder valve opened, I opened it too far and popped the bolt completely out, thankfully I was able to get the bolt back in, but for a minute coolant was pouring out and I thought I had broken something. I wouldn't open more than 3 turns in the future.
4. Even with this great funnel, jumping the CHS relay, turning the heater on high, revving the engine, I still had to top the radiator off after a 15 minute drive, and then again slightly after a 45 minute thruway drive. I am hoping when I check tomorrow morning after it is cooled from the 45 minute thruway drive back home tonight, it is still topped off.

Once again, thank you all, over the past couple months, I have learned to do, and completed a transaxle fluid service, inverter fluid service, and ICE coolant system fluid service.

 

My 120k mile service is coming up in a month or so, and I want to make sure I'm getting everything done that should happen. I take my car to the dealer for all services, and want to know what I should ask to have done in addition to the standard 120k maintenance. The standard 120k service takes care of oil & filter, tire rotation, engine & cabin air filters, spark plugs, and inspecting a bunch of stuff. I'm considering also asking them to change out the transaxle fluid, engine coolant, & inverter coolant (all original), and check and clean the battery fan. Does this sound like a good idea, or should I only bother changing the fluids if the mechanic says so after inspecting them?

 

You can visually check the coolants; if they're pink and up to full level, I'd leave them alone. But you need to remove a fill plug or a drain plug to check the transmission. You're likely to lose some fluid just to check the condition of it. You might as well have it changed. Cleaning the fan is a good idea especially if you have pets in the car on occasion.

 

This is a super helpful list. As I'm nearing 100k are you suggesting some of these things (i.e. brake flush) are done proactively? Or can they be tackled as issues arise?

 

follow the owners manual, except for the tranny fluid.

 

I don't think the US schedule makes any mention of brake fluid change either, that's also a good one, every 3 years or 30K miles IIRC, in the Canadian schedule.

@NutzAboutBolts has a good video on that. My only comment would be: while they use a powered vacuum to help the process, it's not mandatory.

Also, brake inspections: there's two levels of brake inspections in the US schedule, the cursory "visual" inspection every 5k miles or 6 months, but there's also an in-depth, serious inspection, every 30K or 3 years, IIRC. Owner's AND dealerships seem to be blissfully unaware of the latter brake inspection. It is in there, but couched in very subtle language, doesn't jump out at yah.

 

Thanks everyone!

 

For example: Don't waste your time or money changing the PCV valve.

 

exactly, do those things as needed.

 

I have yet to find a Prius PCV valve that was "needed."

 

aren't some 2010's clogging, or just the egr?

 

I see clogged EGRs all the time. Clogged PCV, never seen one.

 

ClogING PCV, ie: all the gunk it efficiently dumps into the intake.

My take, maybe change the PCV valve every 100K miles or 10 years, it's not expensive.

 

Though I believe it would be a good idea to change out the brake fluid properly, I have yet to do it personally. One esteemed member here mentioned that it might not be a good idea to change/flush the brake fluid as it could exacerbate the accumulator, they added there could be a notice or TSB describing this. I've searched around and cannot find such. Might you be able to verify that @Mendel Leisk ?

 

It could more difficult/problematic than 3rd gen. There is a clear instruction in the third gen Repair Manual for changing brake fluid, without Techstream, using "invalid mode" via a chicken dance.

Looking through second gen Repair Manual I don't see a corresponding instruction. I'd suspect it is possible, but not easy. I do see mention of "ECB Invalid" mode, but no chicken dance on how to achieve this without an "intelligent tester", and no clear cut instruction on changing the brake fluid.

 

I'm looking for advice. I'm having the 135k service done on Thursday and wondering if something needs to be done that's not in the book. So far just about everything has been kept by the manual. Air filters I do myself. Trans fluid was changed at 90k. At the 120k service the 12v battery, serpentine belt and spark plugs were changed.

The PCV has never been changed. Is It something I should just leave alone until it malfunctions? Anything else I should be concerned about?

 

I have a 2007 Prius. I got the red triangle. Its code was,P0A93. Inverter water pump. I've reviewed many people changing these .And most change just the one water pump. My car has 195000.Doesnt it make sense to change both and the hoses and a coolant change . And what about the thermostat. I mean if you go to all the trouble of tearing this a part ,I think it would be silly to skip that . Plus I've thought about the traction battery. If you have many miles , changing 1 cell seemed like a lot of trouble and then a .month later another goes out .I know from semi 'sand heavy equipment .if one is bad you change ge both because they will drain the new one down too there level.one more question. My a.c.leaks down abo every 3 weeks. I recharge it .I got a sniffer and found it is the evaporator in the dash. Do you know of a step by step video on changing this.I seen one on a Corolla. It was good but would love to see one on my prius.I plan o driving this car til the wheels fall off. Vic.

 

I'm a new Prius owner. I bought my car with 48,000 miles on it at the end of last year. I haven't had any problems with it. 10,000 miles later, it's due for another oil change. They'll want to do the 60,000 mile service too. Is that really necessary considering the Toyota dealership I bought it from checked everything out in December?

 

You say they checked the car but not whether or not they did 60,000 mile recommended replacements and inspections. I would have them do the 60,000 service if for no other reason than to make sure everything is right on with the car and the manual. Over the course of nine months and 12, 000 miles something could be showing wear that wasn't back then.