Maintenance Needed Questions

They can be done on a Prius, but as long as you don't have problems with the struts, no need.

The blower fans, inverter and engine coolants, brake fluids, and perhaps the transmission fluid are what in my view should have being checked by the non dealer.

 

Shocks and struts age by use, if you drive harder, they age quicker, they certainly could be ready if I was driving, how sedate is your dad?

If you want to do 'Fuel System Cleaning' blow $15 on a bottle of Techron every 100,000 miles.

amazon.com/Chevron-65740-Techron-Concentrate-Cleaner/dp/B00092893E

The PVC valve should have been changed at 120,000 miles, if it wasn't, it is time.

[edit] I like Dxta's list, brake fluid ages with humidity, it will last longer in Phoenix than New Orleans.

 

If that's what they said they'd do, I think its right

 

Yeah, sure.

 

The Prius reacts badly to throttle body cleaning, you can find a dozen threads here about owners who regret it.
Throttle body doesn't work after cleaning | PriusChat

Cleaning the intake manifold is useless, as a Prius blows air/fuel from the cylinders back into the intake tract, It always looks oily in there.

 

I think for the throttle assembly cleaning, if done well, I have never experienced any reactions with it.

 

That's cool

 

Here are a few thoughts, in addition to the excellent points others have made:

• It’s reasonable to replace the automatic transmission (transaxle) fluid, but Toyota warns against substitutes for Genuine Toyota ATF WS fluid, like the proposed “ATF CASTROL SYN,” even if they are said to be compatible.
  
  Castrol’s data sheets for Transmax Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle ATF and Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle ATF do not say either product is a suitable replacement for Toyota ATF WS. (The T-IV and JWS-3390 specifications that are listed apply only to older Toyota vehicles.)
  
  This has been discussed at tedious length in another thread, but note that Toyota doesn’t give a warning like this about engine oil, coolant, fuel, etc., for which it’s fine to use any product that meets the specifications in the Owner’s Manual.

• It’s a bit odd to say “Check and adjust fluid level with scan tool”; according to Toyota’s Repair Manual, available by subscription to techinfo.toyota.com, the transaxle fluid level is checked by opening the filler plug and viewing the level inside, not with a scan tool. I suppose this might be something the shop’s estimating software prints for any car that doesn’t have a transmission dipstick.

• For the transaxle filler and drain plugs and for the engine oil drain plug, the Repair Manual says new gaskets should be used each time the plugs are reinstalled. Those are missing from the proposed parts lists; make sure the shop uses them.

• Changing the intake air filter is a good idea, but I wouldn’t pay $40 for labor to have it done, at least until you’ve watched the NutzAboutVolts video and decided that you couldn’t do the job yourself.

 

couple more thoughts:

do you have dads service records? it would be helpful to know what has been done, especially at the major 120k maintenance.
if not, input the vin into the toyota owners website to see what has been done at the dealership.

2) is TOS familiar with hybrids?

3) is the car running fine and getting good mpg's?

 

it's possible that everything is fine with those numbers.

 

Couple things:
1- The Prius Hybrid Transaxle Fluid is a drain and refill only. Most other Toyota models require using a scan tool to properly set the fluid level, but the Prius is not one of them. So, their quote is incorrect. I also suggest using ATF-WS only, but that is another debate altogether.

2- They quoted you a decent sum to clean the K&N air filter that is in the car. I suggest getting rid of the K&N and installing a proper OE Toyota air filter for $15-$20.

3- The Fuel System Cleaning is of questionable benefit and I would skip it. Your funds are better spent elsewhere.

4- Same goes for the PCV valve replacement. They quoted both the hose and the valve. While it may not be unreasonable to consider replacing the PCV valve, I personally do not see the value of it. The labor charge is not unreasonable since the valve is a pain to access without removing the manifold.

5- The charge (and need) for the brake fluid flush is reasonable. To do the service properly, you should be using the scan tool. I am aware that there is a way to do it without the scan tool, but it is dicey.

6- The charge for the engine and inverter coolant replacements are awfully high.

7- The shop quoted you a price to replace the front struts with pre-assembled KYB struts (includes new strut, generic mounting hardware and spring). Do not do this. The pre-assembled struts are built using junk generic hardware and the hardware will be problematic overtime. Replace only the strut, upper insulator and mount bearing (if-needed) using Genuine Toyota parts.

I can do some of this work for you if you want, but I am not local.

 

Antelope isn’t that far away.

If the OP is the DIY type, we have a meet up in a couple of weekends:

Possible Monthly install meets. Bay Area-Fremont

You’ll have a few members there that can share their experiences as well.

 

Trumping all of this: Toyota's admonition in the Owner's Manual, that using anything other than Toyota ATF WS could damage the transaxle. Oddly, that statement seems to invariably attract rebuttal like "yes, but what about such-and-such...". Arguably the most expensive component in the car, Toyota ATF WS readily available, not exhorbitantly priced: of course we'll consider/debate alternative fluids.

 

Agreed. Then you have to ask - what about the aftermarket fluids that are made specifically (and only) for WS applications?

ATF TYPE TLS-LV - Toyota, Lexus, Scion ATF | Idemitsu Lubricants

 

I mean, behind the scenes, the above guys might be making Toyota's ATF WS, who knows. I would wait, until the fluid is officially authorized by Toyota. And wonder in the interim, why that isn't the case.