Tie Rods

Surprising. Usually the rack and pin fails from fluid leaking or boot failure but the Prius uses an electric motor instead of hydraulic assist.
Maybe the inners and outers are just rotted out how bad is the corrosion under there? You never bothered to list where you live.

Get under there and take some pictures and post them here. Lets see what it looks like.

TTIUWP.

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According to MitchellsDIY, Flat rate for a Gen 4 is 4..2 hours to remove and replace the rack and pinion steering including adjusting toe.

I can't see it being much different on older cars.

 

IF I read correctly...

The shop that performed the "failed" inspection is not "your" Dealership and gave you a quote so they can perform the corrective maintenance "your" Dealership did not detect. I have three points to bring to the table then.

1. If you are certain there are no problems with the steering, go have your inspection done at "your" Dealership.
2. If there is a problem with the steering, shop for and have the repairs done anywhere but the inspection station that gave you the quote.
3. If there is a problem and you know how to work on cars, do it yourself. The outer tie rod ends are "usually" the only suspects to wear out (and very easy to replace), but even the inners are available...both relatively cheap.

This is RockAuto just for example. Be aware there are differences in the steering between the Level V (five) and the others (I-IV). Toyota used a beefed up system on the V(five) because it was equipped with the 17" wheels.

2010 TOYOTA PRIUS 1.8L L4 ELECTRIC/GAS Tie Rod End | RockAuto

 

Going with option 1, the dealership will likely want to be compensated for doing a "second opinion" check.

If the tie rod "problem" turns out to be a complete fabrication, keep all invoices, pass it on to whoever licences this inspector.

 

If I were inspecting someone's steering components and found any play I would fail it too.

Liability is a big deal anymore and if it is worn out it is just the right thing to do.

Now dealing with the second opinion and potential repair?

 

are they interchangeable?
(meaning, once my tie rods are shot, can I 'upgrade' to this ones?)

 

What there testing is slop in the rack by grabbing the wheel at 3 and 9 oclock and wiggling it real hard and looking for looseness.
Same as any other car with R & P.

The Prius is a little different underneath in that the tie rods are on the rear side of the front wheel and the rack is tucked in behind the engine.
It may have failed tie rod boots and dirt got in there and its just worn out.

 

I wonder how they inspect, determine it's the tie rods that are the problem? Grab and pull, and/or use a pry bar, look for play?

Here's the relevant Repair Manual sections, and tie rod inspection is done by removing them, rotating the joint while held in a vice, watching the torque value required to turn it. There's also a steering wheel free play check (overall freeplay: 30 mm max), something the OP could do themselves.

 

Wiggling the tire real hard 3 and 9 any movement then you can see if its the outer tie rod end bushing wiggling or is the inner tire rod into the rack thats moving. If inner the rack teeth are worn. Really easy. Top of tire wiggle at 12 and 6 for ball joint sides of tire wiggle 3 and 9 oclock for tie rods/rack & p or Pittman.

Thats the test they use during inspection i would imagine. Everything must be tight.

But if inner tie rod moving reflecting rack wear you may also feel some vibration when braking hard as the wheels or wheel will not be held tight in its position with rack wear when braking hard. It will feel like a warped rotor. The wheel will basically vibrate under heavy braking if not held tight by the rack.

Dont ask me how I know lol....

 

$800 is insane, I can't believe people are that gullible...

Anyway don't change the rack, that's not a likely issue it isn't special in anyway that requires the rack swapped for tie rod ends.

The 9 and 3, and 12 and 6, is what you check initially, the issue is ball joints, tie rod ends or a wheel bearing. It's natural they all wear out ripped boots or not.

I would find a nice pair of tie rod ends if those are actually what's bad. Look for made in Taiwan for ~$50 on eBay (that probably goes for the wheels bearings or ball joints too) They are generic for a lot of cars. Ideally you want a set that are grease-able.

Literally all the job is for the tie rod ends is Jack the car up, pull the wheel, measure how far the tie rod end sits from the end of the exposed threads ( or other fixed reference point), loosen a lock nut, loosen the outer tie end while holding the inner end with a second wrench. Then reverse

Just make sure the business end of the tie end is in the same place with your tape measure. No need for an alignment or Bs $800 or new rack.

Alignment is easy and cheap/free especially for setting the toe, which is all that is adjustable anyway... If you need to do it. And bonus points for setting zero toe

I do suggest limited driving as front end play will eat up you tires.

 

I was with you till you recommended after market tie rods. There all really bad Chinese crap. You buy a Moog tie rod from Autozone and its a piece of junk.
Few years back I bought a set of rods for a Crown Vic from Rock Auto. The threads on them were so bad you couldn't thread the barrel on it. It was joke. Rock told me to throw them away and they credited me like they were very used to it.

Oem tie rods are $48 a piece a new rack is $650.

But the op doesn't even know whats wrong with it.

 

Sounds like they sent tie rods from another car. The crown Vic are one of the longest running car makes could have just been from a model year change. Anyway not a reason to discount parts even from China... I did specify Taiwan by the way which I'm guessing you have no experience with either. Taiwan actual has a good deal higher standard for some reason. Parts will be cheaper but not junk.

I also have a lot experience with the super cheap $13 a pair Chinese tie rod ends. The quality control is hit or miss and that is why I didn't recommend them. Sometimes you get a great set but sometimes they didn't grease them that cuts the life short on them if the installer doesn't catch it.

A new rack isn't required and that's the price a fool pays. If you don't know what you are talking about take a walk. I get that you want to help but you are fear mongering and pushing bad advise where you don't know what you are talking about first hand.

 

Never said a new rack was required I just quoted a price on it. Like my post said the op doesn’t even iknow what’s wrong with it.

Advising buy the factory part is fear mongering?

 

Did my exhaustive research on the Gen III Prius 8 years ago and learning the Level V (five) had "beefed up" steering was a by-product of that research. Because I choose a Level II (2) for +$10,000 less than a loaded Level V (five), I did not follow up on or about potentially different part numbers and effectivities of rod ends, but "your" Dealership Parts Dept can answer that for you.

 

You and the op don't know what's wrong... Yes I understand that. There is no debate there, but I have no clue what your point is.

Do you understand what fear mongering means? Because it's exactly what you are doing yes. Trying to push people into dealership only parts that are super marketed up, inferring the fear that any other parts will not be as good. The problem here is you are talking without knowledge only assumptions based on limited experience... Or that's at least all you have expressed

 

Come to think of it, our 2010 Canadian Touring has that, with the 17" rims. It's sort of a stripped down version of the US V. We test drove it after an intitial test drive of some other level with 15", and the steering feel on the Touring was night-and-day better. I'm clueless as to why, but I just felt "at home" with the Touring steering.

Someone, maybe @Tideland Prius said they've all got the more "solid" steering now, maybe as of 2012 onward? There's still different steering ratios, locked-to-locked rotation, turning radius differences though, between 15" and 17".

 

rockauto doesn't distinguish, one rod fits all....

 

fugedaboutit

 

Wasn't the "Upgrade" EPS motor of a "Brushless" design?? (whatever benefit that is ).....