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Reoccurring Code on 2013 Prius p0607

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Bamapse, Jan 22, 2018.

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  1. Bamapse

    Bamapse Junior Member

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    Well my wife texted me that on her way to work today the check engine light came on in her 2013 Prius with 110k miles. When she got home I pulled the codes and it appears that there is a p0607 and p0106. After turning it off ( I did not clear the codes) and checking codes again, it was just the p0607 control module performance code. Wondering what my next steps would be for this. I had this code pop up 2 months ago and I replaced the 12v battery 2 months ago and all was well. The weather has also been fluctuating significantly (hot/cold cycles) this week. I have also noticed our MPG's have dropped to 44mpg or so from 47-48 mpg these past few months but I attributed that to winter gas. Here is the link the post I made in November about a p0607 code. Check Engine ((!)) and ABS Lights on in 2013 Prius | PriusChat
     
    #1 Bamapse, Jan 22, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2018
  2. Bamapse

    Bamapse Junior Member

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    Well my wife texted me that on her way to work today the check engine light came on in her 2013 Prius with 110k miles. When she got home I pulled the codes and it appears that there is a p0607 and p0106. After turning it off ( I did not clear the codes) and checking codes again, it was just the p0607 control module performance code. Wondering what my next steps would be for this. I had this code pop up 2 months ago and I replaced the 12v battery 2 months ago and all was well after reprogramming ABS. The weather has also been fluctuating significantly (hot/cold cycles) this week. I have also noticed our MPG's have dropped to 44mpg or so from 47-48 mpg these past few month but I attributed that to winter gas. Here is the link the post I made in November about a p0607 code. Check Engine ((!)) and ABS Lights on in 2013 Prius | PriusChat
     
    #2 Bamapse, Jan 22, 2018
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2018
  3. ILuvMyPriusToo

    ILuvMyPriusToo Senior Member

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    Looked over previous thread and am wondering if you ever checked the body ground back by the battery. If loose or corroded, it might explain the low voltage issues troubling you.
     
    #3 ILuvMyPriusToo, Jan 22, 2018
  4. Bamapse

    Bamapse Junior Member

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    Body ground for 12v or HV battery?
     
    #4 Bamapse, Jan 22, 2018
  5. ILuvMyPriusToo

    ILuvMyPriusToo Senior Member

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    For the 12V.
     
    #5 ILuvMyPriusToo, Jan 22, 2018
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i suppose check the 12v again, just to be sure something funny isn't going on.
     
    #6 bisco, Jan 22, 2018
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Hmm, chalk up another episode of premature credit to a 12 volt battery replacement (in the linked post), followed by reality coming knocking again with the problem to be solved.

    Have you had any more luck signing in to techinfo? This P0607 has a really unhelpful fortune cookie ("Control Module Performance" - bah!) with a curious list of possible trouble areas (ECM, HEGO sensor, exhaust leak??). The trouble is, right now I'm just looking it up in one of those condensed summaries that float around on the web, the kind I'm always recommending not to waste time on, and just look in the manual right off.

    If you look in the manual, the page for that code will start off with what's called the "detecting condition", the exact physical sense conditions that trigger the ECM to log that code. Knowing that will be much more helpful than "Control Module Performance" (whatever that was in Japanese) and probably even begin to make sense of how the code could have that odd list of possible contributing areas.

    After that, it will go on with a page or more of step-by-step troubleshooting actions you can take to pin down just why you're getting that code, and following those will be highly likely to lead to the solution.

    Honestly, if I had signed into techinfo myself in the last couple days and still had some minutes left, I'd happily use 'em to look this up for you, it's just that I haven't signed in for a while so it would be a fresh $15 for me to do it.

    Cheers,
    -Chap
     
    #7 ChapmanF, Jan 22, 2018
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  8. Bamapse

    Bamapse Junior Member

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    Thanks for the help, unfortunately, I still haven't had any luck signing into techinfo =( Maybe there will be a helpful soul who reads this before diving in and can send me the troubleshooting info. Heck, I'd pay the $15 to someone who will send me the info since I can't seem to log in.
     
    #8 Bamapse, Jan 22, 2018
  9. Bamapse

    Bamapse Junior Member

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    I'll check the battery first thing in the morning as well as the frame ground
     
    #9 Bamapse, Jan 22, 2018
  10. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    In this case, the DTC name comes from the SAE J2012 standard, which has an appendix about how the names were developed. I agree that it’s not very descriptive; at least with a fortune cookie, you also get to eat the cookie and try your luck with the lottery numbers.
    Have you tried your local public library? Many sponsor free access for their patrons to the ChiltonLibrary service, which has most of the text and illustrations from Toyota’s Repair Manual.

    The navigation in ChiltonLibrary is a bit clunky, though; after selecting 2013 Toyota Prius, click Repair > Engine Performance & Emission Controls > 2ZR-FXE Engine Control > SFI System, and then click P0607; Control Module Performance (2013 Prius From 10/2012) or P0106; Manifold Absolute Pressure / Barometric Pressure Circuit Range / Performance Problem (2013 Prius From 10/2012).

    Also, are you sure the second code was P0106 and not P0136? I ask because the procedure for P0607 says, if you also have P0136, Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2), to check that first.
     
    #10 Elektroingenieur, Jan 23, 2018
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  11. Bamapse

    Bamapse Junior Member

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    Yes it was a p0106 but it is no longer there. I live about an hour from the closest public library which would make looking up the Chilton stuff significantly harder but thank you for thinking through that for me!
     
    #11 Bamapse, Jan 23, 2018
  12. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    In the category of: Don't overlook the obvious, since the problem apparently went away after putting in a new 12 V battery, I suggest that the FIRST thing to do would be to check it.

    New stuff sometimes goes bad relatively soon.
    Was the new battery fully charged before being put into use ?
    Some people's driving habits won't fully charge a flat battery.......and many new ones come almost completely flat.
     
    #12 Sam Spade, Jan 23, 2018
  13. Bamapse

    Bamapse Junior Member

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    I checked voltage at the 12v battery and it was at 12.34v and its 30 degrees here this morning. No signs of corrosion and nothing loose at the battery. I thought about charging the battery and clearing the code and take it for a drive. Bad idea?
     
    #13 Bamapse, Jan 23, 2018
  14. Bamapse

    Bamapse Junior Member

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    I checked voltage at the 12v battery and it was at 12.34v and its 30 degrees here this morning. No signs of corrosion and nothing loose at the battery. I thought about charging the battery and clearing the code and take it for a drive. Bad idea?
     
    #14 Bamapse, Jan 23, 2018
  15. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    You’re welcome, and I’m sorry if I didn’t explain it clearly: you don’t have to go to the library in person; just visit its website, find the link to ChiltonLibrary (if they subscribe, it’s usually under “Research” or “Databases” or something like that), and enter your library card number.

    I’d also note that Toyota recently fixed several sign-in problems on techinfo.toyota.com, so you might try that again, if you haven’t lately.
     
    #15 Elektroingenieur, Jan 23, 2018
  16. Bamapse

    Bamapse Junior Member

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    Well heres an update... I went out and pulled the codes again and all the brake lights and ABS AND traction control lights are back on so now it is almost the exact same scenario as in Nov. down to the rain and cold and checking codes the next day to see that all the new lights are on. After replacing the battery in Nov. we've put right at 5k miles on it until check engine light came on yesterday again.
     
    #16 Bamapse, Jan 23, 2018
  17. Bamapse

    Bamapse Junior Member

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    Well heres an update... I went out and pulled the codes again and all the brake lights and ABS AND traction control lights are back on so now it is almost the exact same scenario as in Nov. down to the rain and cold and checking codes the next day to see that all the new lights are on. After replacing the battery in Nov. we've put right at 5k miles on it until check engine light came on yesterday again.
     
    #17 Bamapse, Jan 23, 2018
  18. Sam Spade

    Sam Spade Senior Member

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    No, I think it is a very good idea.
    12.3 is a bit low but that depends on what "state" it was in at the time.
    A fresh, healthy, fully charged AGM often reads 12.8.
     
    #18 Sam Spade, Jan 23, 2018
  19. Bamapse

    Bamapse Junior Member

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    I just pulled the battery and load tested it before charging it and I got 12.45v out of the car and then voltage dropped to 10.9v under load which showed to be in the "weak" zone of my load testers but I checked it with my multimeter while loading with the tester and thats what gave me the 10.9v reading under load
     
    #19 Bamapse, Jan 23, 2018
  20. Bamapse

    Bamapse Junior Member

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    I just pulled the battery and load tested it before charging it and I got 12.45v out of the car and then voltage dropped to 10.9v under load which showed to be in the "weak" zone of my load testers but I checked it with my multimeter while loading with the tester and thats what gave me the 10.9v reading under load
     
    #20 Bamapse, Jan 23, 2018
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